1999 4x4 2 Door Tahoe

[bunchz71]

Come on, somebody lol

 

[bunchz71]

I paid $450 some years ago through Tom Woods

I just talked to Rough Country and they recommended Tom Woods. Were you happy with everything ? I remember you said it was a pain to get set up, but any issues ordering a whole new one online ?

 

[jerryjoe28]

OK, got the Tahoe back today. Runs good with power. Now that the engine basically has no load on it @ 75 MPH, it feels like with the cruise control on, it gets up to speed in OD, then the motor basically has no load on it, so it kind of feels like it coasts for a brief second and then accelerates back to 75. Nothing drastic on the speedometer, just the feel of acceleration when it picks back up. With the 3:73 gears, it was always in enough of a bind/strain @ 75 that it was smooth, but now since the engine is not under the load, it has a vibration when it coasts. I suspect now, this is where you guys say that you will have to go with the rear CV......... Help please. Anyone know of a way to fix this ?

yes my vibrations where the worst at highway speeds when the motor was under light load and really bad if I let off the gas at highway speeds. MY CV shaft was made by my local driveline shop and I love it

 

[Rob Scariano]

yes my vibrations where the worst at highway speeds when the motor was under light load and really bad if I let off the gas at highway speeds. MY CV shaft was made by my local driveline shop and I love it

I second Jerry's reply. You need a double cardon driveshaft (Rear CV).

Afterwards, have the shop check your driveline angle. You may need pinion shims to correct it. It is extremely important to get the driveline angle correct to eliminate the vibrations. Unfortunately for me, I had to learn the hard way by trying everything else first. However, the CV shaft will absolutely fix this for you. Just note the rear pinion angle has to be as close to zero as possible when using a CV shaft.

 

[bunchz71]

I second Jerry's reply. You need a double cardon driveshaft (Rear CV).

Afterwards, have the shop check your driveline angle. You may need pinion shims to correct it. It is extremely important to get the driveline angle correct to eliminate the vibrations. Unfortunately for me, I had to learn the hard way by trying everything else first. However, the CV shaft will absolutely fix this for you. Just note the rear pinion angle has to be as close to zero as possible when using a CV shaft.

It seems by the time you shim the rear differential 8 degrees on top of the tapered blocks that come with the rear shaft, it seems to be quite the angle. Whats the max taper you can put, or is this even an issue?

 

[Rob Scariano]

It seems by the time you shim the rear differential 8 degrees on top of the tapered blocks that come with the rear shaft, it seems to be quite the angle. Whats the max taper you can put, or is this even an issue?

There really isn't an issue. I have like 10-12 degree. Which on the grand scheme of things isn't a whole lot. The difference between 8 and 12 is marginal. You have two ways of doing this correctly.

1. Get rid of the blocks and install lifted springs with pinion shims (overall best and most expensive method).

2. Keep the lifted blocks (which are tapered) and in my case, added leaf, and install pinion shims. This is the least expensive option which I did, but at some point I will remove the block and springs and replace with lifted springs. Changing the springs will clean it up and also help against axle wrap. The block makes axle wrap worse as it treats the block as a pivot point. You can of course custom fabricate ladder bars but I've yet to find a bolt on pair for a 2 door.

 

[Dneel81]

shackle flip is another option that is very inexpensive. Also the axle wrap will be decreased when you lose the lift blocks too.

EDIT: probably need a zero rate too since the shackle flip will move the axle. The zero rates will help to recenter the wheel in the wheel well.

 

[bunchz71]

OK, finally decided to break down and get a CV shaft. When I talk to the rep at Tom Woods, he recommended that I do the conversion on the transfer case to get rid of the reverse slip yoke. Did any of you guys actually do this or did you just go with the slip yoke and leave the transfer case as it is? The representative told me that short term it would eliminate the vibration but because of the weight added on the tail end of the transfer case it would actually wear out the seals pretty often. Anyone have any problems with the reverse slip or did you guys do the conversion as well? The kid is $650 plus a $400 core charge until you send back the shaft on your transfer case after you do the swap. Seems like a lot of work to me. I have all of my dimensions for my CV shaft with the slip yoke but I am really wondering if the conversion is really necessary on the transfer case. Please help thanks

 

[Dneel81]

I had a CV shaft with a slip yoke for about 6 months. The problems are 2 with the Slip yoke on a 4x4 rig. First off the CV shaft will cause premature wear of the bronze bushing inside the tailhousing of your transfer case. I'm not sure how to quantify "premature" but it is there. The CV part of the shaft adds about 15lbs to the shaft. Second thing is that if this is going to be a wheeling rig, the CV slip can come out of the tailshaft of the transfer case when your rear axle articulates. If that happens, all your ATF in the transfer case is going to leak out unless it's all downhill on the way home when that shaft comes out. The driveshaft breaks, a u joint breaks, etc...driveshaft comes out and you're leaking everywhere.

JB conversions is an expensive piece of equipment but they're top quality. I did my switch in about 90 minutes in my garage with the xfer case in the tahoe. Not hard at all. John is the main guy there and he's top notch with respect to customer service. I believe the cutoff is year 1997 but if the transfer case is that year or newer, you don't have to beat the bearings off the tailshaft of the transfer case (a nice caveat when your transfer case is split open and you're covered in ATF.

 

[bunchz71]

I had a CV shaft with a slip yoke for about 6 months. The problems are 2 with the Slip yoke on a 4x4 rig. First off the CV shaft will cause premature wear of the bronze bushing inside the tailhousing of your transfer case. I'm not sure how to quantify "premature" but it is there. The CV part of the shaft adds about 15lbs to the shaft. Second thing is that if this is going to be a wheeling rig, the CV slip can come out of the tailshaft of the transfer case when your rear axle articulates. If that happens, all your ATF in the transfer case is going to leak out unless it's all downhill on the way home when that shaft comes out. The driveshaft breaks, a u joint breaks, etc...driveshaft comes out and you're leaking everywhere.

JB conversions is an expensive piece of equipment but they're top quality. I did my switch in about 90 minutes in my garage with the xfer case in the tahoe. Not hard at all. John is the main guy there and he's top notch with respect to customer service. I believe the cutoff is year 1997 but if the transfer case is that year or newer, you don't have to beat the bearings off the tailshaft of the transfer case (a nice caveat when your transfer case is split open and you're covered in ATF.

So overall for the kit and driveshaft was 650? After the $400 core was sent back. Is this what yours cost?

Also, they are wanting to know the type of transfer case I have. Looking at the code in the glove box, which code is the one that tells which transfer case I have?