1997 Tahoe

[millerbrad9]

I am about to put on 37 inch Nitto Mud Grapplers on my 1997 2 door 4x4 Tahoe with a FTS 9.5 inch Suspension lift 18x9 dick cepec (dc2) wheels. I am having a professional installation service doing it but I do not know anything about their reputation.

Any comments or suggestions on anything I may be missing would be greatly appreciated. I a

 

[Donnie Yukonie]

Im having a hard time understanding what your asking…

Maybe post the companies name and Maybe a member might have some experience with them , Also please post pictures when you get it done.

as to your question what do you need advice on exactly?

 

[millerbrad9]

Well I guess I do not know what I do not know. In other words I know so little about suspension lifts, larger tires, etc that I was wondering what are peoples thoughts on a few things

1. Will this inch lift with these size tires look good (I know that is a matter of opinion)

2. Is this the right Inch lift for these tires

3. The place has not mentioned anything about "gearing" and I have read a couple of threads on here about needing to do that
a. So what type of gearing ratio

4. Do I need to change any of the other stock components from this vehicle since I am going with bigger tires and suspension lift

5. Is there anything I am missing that I should be asking or doing

I will def post pics. This was my 1st vehicle out of college and I have always wanted to do something like this to it. It is not my primary vehicle and will not take it on long trips. Just stuff around my house so I do not mind getting the tires kinda big because of that.

Thx for the reply

 

[Donnie Yukonie]

1. Yes its a matter of opinion ,personally i think it will look great
2. Yes 37s will fit nicely under lift of that size
3. Gearing is almost a requirement due to a couple of factors , Because your going to a rather large tire 37s . the stock gearing won't handle the new force of having to turn those big meats . IMHO I would say 4.56 gears would be a healthy choice , you could go a little higher but that is all a matter of opinion , One thing to Note as well is that a Tire of that size I would have swapped the 10 bolt rear axle out for a 14 bolt . with tires of that size a 10 bolt will look tiny for one thing but also be strained . Also don't forget when Regearing Axles to have Both front and rear match , If not you will destroy your transfer case .

5. A lift that big I imagine already comes with a host of new suspension parts but I would definitely recommend Replacing any old worn front suspension parts after the lift is installed and get it aligned .

 

[millerbrad9]

Wow! I really appreciate the info! About how much does the re gearing cost parts and labor and are there benefits to going with a different ratio than the 1 you mentioned?

And also about how much for the cost labor and parts of the 14 bolt rear axle?

 

[KPOD]

Re-gearing is $750-1000 per axle, and if you're going to swap re-axles you're probably going to want your new 14 bolt rear axle rebuilt. It depends on how much you pay up front for the new axle, up here you can get just the axle for $300-400, and that is from a junk yard.

Does that FTS 9.5" work on 2 doors? The one I'm seeing appears to be for a 4 door, http://fullthrottlesuspension.com/index.php/1988-1998-4wd-9-5-chevy-gmc-4dr-tahoe-kit. Don't forget that kit doesn't come with shocks either, so you need to add that into your cost.

 

[Donnie Yukonie]

Axle ratios are another matter of opinion to be honest , Yes they are pretty much required for the reasons i stated above but How high or how low you gear it is based on your needs , The bigger the ratio , I.E 5.11s for instance would be better suited for off road use or extreme towing with that tire size , But a 4.56 would net you better gas mileage and be more DD friendly. IMHO once you pass the 5.?? mark you really shouldn't be driving it long distances or at high speeds as one your top end suffers and two your max speed drops . However it will restore the HP feeling and performance .

 

[millerbrad9]

Whoa KPOD thanks for catching that. I called to double check and they had accidently ordered that susp lift which was for a 4 door Tahoe and mine is a 2 door. They were able to catch the order before it left and they do make that lift in the 2 door. I owe you a beer if I ever run into you!

Thx again!


So Donnie this is just a secondary vehicle that I will very rarely be driving more than 50 miles at a time or faster than 65 mph and prob putting less than 3k miles a yr on it so knowing that would you suggest 5.11 or 4.56?

You guys have been a huge help!

 

[BigDaddy13440]

Holy shit!!!!! $3700?????
Christ, I paid $3800 for my '96 seven years ago, with 104K on the odometer.... put 115K on it since, and just put a new GM 5.7 from Jegs in 3 months ago, for $2100 (plus installation costs ....)

***** better be good for another 100K before I dump another $3500+ into her!

---------- Post added at 09:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:53 PM ----------

so.. if I order the 15" lift, do you think I'll get it for free???

http://fullthrottlesuspension.com/index.php/1988-1998-4wd-15-chevy-gmc-4dr-tahoe-kit

 

[Donnie Yukonie]

Personally I would run a 4.56 , I think you will get the best of both worlds , there might be some people who disagree , which is fine . again gearing is a matter of opinion when it comes to exact sizes .

 

[Gzes]

At that size I would def replace worn parts. I would also ditch ifs all together. I'm gonna run military 37s and solid axles but sourcing isn't fun. Gotta find a Dana 60 driver drop with king pins but can only find Dana 44s and possibly a Dana 50..

 

[millerbrad9]

Gzes you would ditch the what?

 

[SunlitComet]

He means ditch the IFS (Independent Front Suspension) system and use a solid axle setup.

 

[Donnie Yukonie]

No need to Ditch the IFS if its just a trophy/weekend truck . Unless you plan on really beating these trucks off road and getting the Full capabilities from off road use SAS (straight axle swap) is pointless , IFS done correctly will run 35s with no issues , I have Stock Torsion angles with my lift and no adverse wear on any suspension parts thus far , However I replaced everything when I did the lift so thats where it comes into play . Even with my Mild to hardcore offroading I haven't yet really seen the moneys worth from my perspective (at least not YET) I can spend that 6-8 thousand elsewhere for now . but to suggest a complete Front suspension and drivetrain swap just to run 37s on the road and in a few mud holes is not wise . For now the IFS will be fine , Just make sure to re gear those axles

 

[SunlitComet]

I agree. I don't think you would need to get ride of the IFS either. And Gzez I would probably not go with those tires. You don't need that kind of stuff. Unless you plan one climbing mountains or something.

 

[millerbrad9]

Thanks Donnie and everyone else. Donnie you are right it will only be a weekend truck. Not much if any off roading. I will post pics as soon as it is done.

 

[Donnie Yukonie]

Cant wait man

 

[millerbrad9]

..

Si I just got this email below from the guy whos doing my Tahoe. An additional charge at the last minute. Was wondering if this makes sense to anyone.

From Full Throtte suspensions to my guy doing the wotk on my truck
1997 GM TAHOE. ON VEHICLES WITH PUSH BUTTON 4X4 WILL REQUIRE A CV FRONT DRIVE SHAFT.


This is the email from my guy doing the lift and referencing the email above from fullthrottle


Hello Brad,

I just wanted to forward an email we received from a gentleman named, James from Full Throttle Suspensions. Rob contacted him the other day to inquire about the CV Front drive shaft. He called him back to let him know that, yes, one is required! Then he emailed us as well.



So, for the front drive shaft $585.00 plus shipping/handling. They do have one in stock. I need the ok from you to move forward with the order. Please let me know when you can.