1997 Tahoe 5.7 L V8 quick question, need help identifying heater hose connector

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OR VietVet

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Before you are done with this you will be very frustrated. Make sure you read up on the thread specs for the new fitting and get the tap ahead of time. The chipping out of the old will drive you crazy and to drink. Patience is a slow process with this. It can be done but if you are mixed up and frustrated, have a tech friend or shop do it. Piss poor design for sure.

There is another thread here about this same problem.
 

drakon543

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i got nothing for this one besides atleast trying an aggressive bite extractor. a softer bite extractor will just squish the metal and pull itself in. an aggressive extractor would have a better shot. when i changed mine it came right out.
 
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drakon543

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0508335-23.jpg
soft bite extractor
irwin-53404-4-easy-out-screw-extractor-63.jpg
aggressive bite extractor
incase you were confused on what i was talking about. people snap the air chucks off the pneumatic tools all the time at work. similar idea with the soft metal aside from the corrosion with that coolant connector.
 
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1997TahoeFix

1997TahoeFix

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YEEHAW!! :)

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Thanks so much everybody!

I nicked the top a bunch but the threading actually looks decent. I need to pick out some metal pieces that snuck in despite my best efforts, clean the threads out with a pic, and clean and lubricate But then I'm going to try to screw in the new coupling. If I can't get the new coupling into this rough thread (I'm assuming I will have trouble), are there any good techniques for forcing something to screw into a bad thread if I don't have a tap and die handy? Or is this a case of "No, you 100 percent must rethread the hole." ?
 

OR VietVet

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Get a tap to help clean the threads and use grease on the tap threads. As you screw anything in, have grease on the threads and when you start to feel too much resistance do not just force it. Back off and then try again a little at a time. Good idea to try and pick as much debris out as you can. remember that you are in the cooling system so in all likelihood the metal that you cannot get out will likely gravitate to the bottom somewhere. That nick area at the top, I see it, can inhibit an east start to anything you try to thread in there. be careful there. May want to use an angle head punch to push it back in place a bit. But may not need that so first see if can still start anything you can thread in there. Might even have to use a small rat tail file to rub some of that away. Pics of what you do of course and the final pics when all back together.

By the way, I have seen those chunks come out like that before. Kind of gives you a ***** when you actually start to dig them out.
 
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1997TahoeFix

1997TahoeFix

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PXL_20210309_194004733.jpg

Oh wow, it's actually going in smoothly.

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It's a miracle! I can't thank everyone on this forum enough. I was really frustrated yesterday but the vertical hacksaw holes/chisel with a screwdriver technique really does work.

If anyone else comes across this post and is also confused/annoyed like I was, I think the reason I was so confused is because everyone was saying to "chisel" and my entire life, chisels have been precision woodworking tools that are quite large and sharp. What everyone meant was, "use a little punch or old screwdriver *like a chisel*" because my chisels were just violently piercing through the thread and the engine manifold and anything else in their way like butter so I was confused how this wouldn't just destroy the threads. You basically need a tiny, dull chisel. I used a long, old screwdriver. And you're not making a cut with the chisel, you're making a forceful downward force that breaks the old coupling at the weakest points, which you made with the hacksaw. Then you're pulling it off, towards the center of the hole, not up, with the pliers.
 

OR VietVet

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Success! Great. You spelled it out exactly how others were trying to say it. Make sure you check for leaks after all back together and running and new o-rings as well.
 

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