OP
OP
SirReal63
Full Access Member
I did manage to get something important fixed, the alternator. As mentioned above the 105 stock alternator was giving signs of impending failure. I ordered a PowerMaster 140 amp alternator (47803) as a replacement, it is still a CS130 case and a direct bolt on. I researched and searched how to change the charge cable as a 6 gauge wire is needed for 140 amps up to 6' in length. I found nothing on doing this job and the positive distribution block is buried between the block and the firewall and inaccessible unless the engine is out of the way or you peel the harness out of the "hole". No way I was doing that, and you don't actually need to, you can add a correct gauge wire directly to the battery with an inline fuse for protection. This actually has benefits as the charge from the alternator goes directly to the battery while still feeding the factory harness. Painless Performance sells a kit to do this but I already had most of the needed supplies on hand. I ordered an AMI/Midi 175 amp fuse and holder and got busy.
While I was under the car looking for the other end of the charge cable I decided to fix an old issue that I knew about. The starter lead had about an inch of the insulation missing, as this is a potential direct short to ground I added some thick marine heat shrink tubing to hopefully keep it from ever being a problem. The wire itself is fine, still supple and no green crusties. I need to do the same for the other wires going to the starter but am out of smaller gauge red heat shrink and don't really want to use black.
Installing the alternator is very easy as it is a direct replacement. Powermaster is good enough to include a dedicated ground lug and I used it. While it can ground through the mounting brackets I found on my car it was not really a sufficient ground as the brackets are old and dirty/rusty and the path goes through the head, not the block directly. On my 880 block there is a threaded hole just forward of the exhaust manifold. Nothing was threaded into it so I cleaned out the threads with a tap and found a suitable bolt. I had some Marine tinned 6 gauge wire and tinned copper lugs and made up a short ground directly from the alternator to the block. This will ensure grounding is not an issue.
To the block... (I routed it forward and away from the exhaust manifold, hopefully this wire will not get scorched, there is about 1 to 1-1/2" clearance from the exhaust, though it looks closer from the pic angle.)
To the alternator... (there is a vacuum line in the way but you get the idea)
Alternator installed, wiring ran from charge lug to fuse holder to batter positive post. The OEM charge wire is still in the correct place to feed the vehicle. I will cover the new wire with some chafe protection before long, I need to order some more and will try and find it in red.
The battery compartment is getting a little crowded, I hope to find a weather proof fused or breakered distribution block to tame this mess a little. Getting the positive accessory lug in place is getting difficult to do, too cramped.
After buttoning everything up voltage change is dramatic, at best the old alternator would hit 13.6 volts (not counting the 15.7 with the failing regulator) to 14.5 volts at idle with the new alternator. That's a pretty good change and should make everything that consumes voltage happy without worrying about too high voltage and frying anything. I have not put an amp clamp on it to test actual amperage yet, and may not, the tag that came with the alternator showing their testing was 104 amps at idle which is just a little less than the stock 105 amp should do at speed.
I really need to clean the engine bay again as well as the rest of the car, it is downright filthy.
Edit to add...
The mounting of the fuse holder. This needs to be strong and firmly attached. I attached it to the inner fender as there were already two holes in the right place to use. I mounted the fuse holder to a 1/4" piece of ABS, two machine screws directly to the existing holes and two more that go through the fuse holder, the ABS and then the inner fender. I added a little paint to keep the corrosion down.
While I was under the car looking for the other end of the charge cable I decided to fix an old issue that I knew about. The starter lead had about an inch of the insulation missing, as this is a potential direct short to ground I added some thick marine heat shrink tubing to hopefully keep it from ever being a problem. The wire itself is fine, still supple and no green crusties. I need to do the same for the other wires going to the starter but am out of smaller gauge red heat shrink and don't really want to use black.
Installing the alternator is very easy as it is a direct replacement. Powermaster is good enough to include a dedicated ground lug and I used it. While it can ground through the mounting brackets I found on my car it was not really a sufficient ground as the brackets are old and dirty/rusty and the path goes through the head, not the block directly. On my 880 block there is a threaded hole just forward of the exhaust manifold. Nothing was threaded into it so I cleaned out the threads with a tap and found a suitable bolt. I had some Marine tinned 6 gauge wire and tinned copper lugs and made up a short ground directly from the alternator to the block. This will ensure grounding is not an issue.
To the block... (I routed it forward and away from the exhaust manifold, hopefully this wire will not get scorched, there is about 1 to 1-1/2" clearance from the exhaust, though it looks closer from the pic angle.)
To the alternator... (there is a vacuum line in the way but you get the idea)
Alternator installed, wiring ran from charge lug to fuse holder to batter positive post. The OEM charge wire is still in the correct place to feed the vehicle. I will cover the new wire with some chafe protection before long, I need to order some more and will try and find it in red.
The battery compartment is getting a little crowded, I hope to find a weather proof fused or breakered distribution block to tame this mess a little. Getting the positive accessory lug in place is getting difficult to do, too cramped.
After buttoning everything up voltage change is dramatic, at best the old alternator would hit 13.6 volts (not counting the 15.7 with the failing regulator) to 14.5 volts at idle with the new alternator. That's a pretty good change and should make everything that consumes voltage happy without worrying about too high voltage and frying anything. I have not put an amp clamp on it to test actual amperage yet, and may not, the tag that came with the alternator showing their testing was 104 amps at idle which is just a little less than the stock 105 amp should do at speed.
I really need to clean the engine bay again as well as the rest of the car, it is downright filthy.
Edit to add...
The mounting of the fuse holder. This needs to be strong and firmly attached. I attached it to the inner fender as there were already two holes in the right place to use. I mounted the fuse holder to a 1/4" piece of ABS, two machine screws directly to the existing holes and two more that go through the fuse holder, the ABS and then the inner fender. I added a little paint to keep the corrosion down.
