1-3" lift

[sparg93]

I've just started my research on lifting my '99 4x4 4dr

The purpose of the lift is so i can fit bigger rims and tires so it's just going up a little bit...

Reading the forums, I found people used "keys" and there is a difference between a body lift and suspension lift.

Can anyone point me to an article or writeup that explains the different types of lifts out there?

---------- Post added at 10:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:21 PM ----------

i'm embarrased...i just found 10 articles on the internet.

 

[bowtiefreak]

may want to look into the RCX 4" or 6" kit. Way better for the truck than cranking keys to 3"

 

[sparg93]

Bowtie - I'm glad you chimmed in!!

Goodluck with that new burb build, I'm psyched to see the photos.

Most likely I'm lifting 1.5", possible 2"

I've seen companies that make external keys, but is true that my '99 4dr 4x4 also has keys on the front end?

If I'm lifting ~1.5 - 2", will i see premature wear or should I go with a block set?

 

[grimm]

Fully cranking your T-bars will add stress for sure, which in turn will contribute to premature wear. Your truck already has keys, as these provide an index for how much you can crank your Torsion bars. People swap keys so they can crank further than the stock keys would allow.

You could probably get 1.5" to 2" cranking the T-bars with the stock keys and maybe blocks out back depending on the tires you plan to run.

If you want a solid 3" and nothing more, you could probably do a body lift, which is pretty much just how it sounds : lifting the body off of the frame with the help of spacers or bushings or whatever you wanna call 'em. (It's pretty cheap too with an average price of $200). This will, however create a gap between the body and frame, so you'll probably want gap guards and another kit to raise your bumpers back up to the body.

Your goals are really the biggest factor in deciding which route to go. If you're planning to build an off-road vehicle, then a suspension lift is probably the best way to go.

 

[bowtiefreak]

Yes, stock keys SHOULD get 1.5-2" no problem unless the torsion bars are worn out. I got 1.5" out of the tahoe with plenty more to go.

I mentioned the RCX kit (same thing I am looking at for the burban) Many lifts out there that claim 6-7" are really only 4.5-5" then cranked up anyway. What I am doing on the burban is a 6" kit with no crank to give me about 5" with great CV and ball joint angles.

RCX also makes a 3" lift that is keys (i think), new upper control arms to help correct the ball joint angles and an add a leaf I think. The CV angles would just scare me on that though.

A body lift is another option and can be done cleanly with gap guards, paint the wheel wells and paint the frame, add some side steps or running boards to hide some of the frame.

Biggest factor: How much do you want to spend and think long and hard about if you will want to go higher later. I have 8" of lit in the front of the tahoe and would love another 3+"

 

[grimm]

Ah yes, bowtiefreak, forgot about the factor of money, haha. Can't forget an important detail like that .

Sparg93 : A suspension lift will cost you the most money, but you could achieve more lift and better performance. Are you aiming to run 35's or 37's? Then take into consideration bowtiefreak's post about how much you're willing to spend and if you will ever wanna go higher.

 

[Brandon X]

I'm getting my 3" Rough Country suspension lift put on Sunday. I have exactly what you have too a 99 4x4 4 door Tahoe. The kit costs me $600 shipped and that comes with everything, I also upgraded to the Nitro 9000 shocks. I'll let you know how I like after it gets put on and ill snap some pics.

 

[sparg93]

some great advice, thank you everyone!

Brandon - i saw the kit, unfortunately for me and my '99 they don't have the same kit. Does anyone know why they would seperate the '99s from the '98s? They grouped me up to 2006 for their suspension kits.

With that in mind, they have a 2" leveling kit for $260...instead of spending the money, can i simply raise my torsion bars by two inches? If I did that, I would need to purchase "blocks" for my rears?

The leveling kit they sell states it reduces stress on OE components but it looks like keys and blocks to me...which my truck has, minus blocks...or is there something I'm missing? http://roughcountry.com/chevy_4wd_99-06_tahoe-2.html

My goal is to build a "beefier" looking highway warrior with light offroad use. Unfortunately I don't seem myself using this truck for much more b/c there just isn't much of an opportunity around me for aggressive offroading...and i use this as my daily driver.

 

[Brandon X]

99 is when they changed there body styles. If you have an OBS (like me) you're gonna want the 88-98 lift (like I got), if you have an NBS then yeah they were right, you're gonna need the 99-06 lift. I tried looking for a pic of your hoe but couldn't find one so I don't know if you have an OBS or NBS.

 

[grimm]

I would assume he has an OBS. They often group 99's in with the 2000-2006 kits because the 1999 body style changed for the pick-up trucks. The 2000 model year was when the NBS Tahoes and Yukons were released and the following year the Denali's and Escalades were updated as well. However, the old body style went into the 2000 model year depending on what model you had (2000 Tahoe Z71, 2000 Tahoe Limited, Yukon Denali, and Escalade). So I'm pretty sure you could have an OBS and NBS of the same model year.

Correct me if I'm wrong.

---------- Post added at 12:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:12 PM ----------

Oh yeah, forgot to add, you probably wanna look for kits ranging 96-99.

 

[Brandon X]

Yeah whoever told you that you need a lift kit for a 99-06 tahoe is talking out there ass.

 

[sparg93]

correct - i have an OBS tahoe.

The 99-06 kit was listed on the rough country website for my tahoe:
http://roughcountry.com/chevy_4wd_99-06_tahoe_lift_kits.html

It didn't make sense to me either b/c my understanding is that '99 and '98 are IDENTICAL.

---------- Post added at 04:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:54 PM ----------

I just emailed the company, definitely a typo on their part.

So, if i crank up my t-bars 1.5 - 2" and add blocks in the rear, I should be ok?

Cranked 1.5 - 2", do I have to worry about breaking anything in 4wd with mild offroading? (this is mostly a highway truck)

When offroading, is there anything I should pay particular attention to? (i.e. steep lateral angles, jumps, etc)

 

[bowtiefreak]

just make sure the CV shafts do not bind after the crank up. I recomend taking a picture of the front end so we can see the angles and giev opinions on too much or OK

 

[sparg93]

ok, perfect - unfortunately this will be a project in Feb....this month is HIDs and Stereo.

I'm just got my 55w and 35w HIDs and I'm going to do the 4-hi mod.

Same wkd I'm doing the Big 3 Upgrade and adding x2 10" shallow subs under the rear bench.

I'm getting there, the Hoe is almost the way I want it!!

Within the next three weeks I'll be releasing my measurements on the 1/2ton to 3/4ton brake upgrade. I bought a measuring wheel and slammed on the brakes from 60mph with the old setup and next week the 3/4ton setup....pads are finally broken in. I'm also going to either prove or disprove the theory on steel brake lines helping with stopping distances and pedal firmness.

 

[custom99]

I figured I should butt in on this thread since I am asking the same type questions. I have a 1999 Yukon Denali. Looking to lift it 2 to 3 inches to put some 33's on it. It is only for looks and will be driven about 1000 miles a year. Looks way too wimpy sitting stock. I have a Wrangler that is the off road toy with way too much money in the suspension on it. Looking for the cheapest way to do this. Most of the things I have looked up say except Denali. Any help you can give me on this? Thanks

 

[TeaDubya2011]

i could be wrong, but i dont think they make denali lifts..if anything, get torsion keys and blocks on back

 

[custom99]

That is what I was running into with not seeing any for Denali. I traded one of my Wranglers for it so I did not know at that time it would be a hard model to work with.I don't want to sound stupid but how do the keys and blocks work and where is best place to get them. I do all the suspension work on my wranglers as well as friends jeeps but this is obviously a different set up than I always mess with.

 

[Drumrunner]

Yes, stock keys SHOULD get 1.5-2" no problem unless the torsion bars are worn out. I got 1.5" out of the tahoe with plenty more to go.

I mentioned the RCX kit (same thing I am looking at for the burban) Many lifts out there that claim 6-7" are really only 4.5-5" then cranked up anyway. What I am doing on the burban is a 6" kit with no crank to give me about 5" with great CV and ball joint angles.

RCX also makes a 3" lift that is keys (i think), new upper control arms to help correct the ball joint angles and an add a leaf I think. The CV angles would just scare me on that though.

A body lift is another option and can be done cleanly with gap guards, paint the wheel wells and paint the frame, add some side steps or running boards to hide some of the frame.

Biggest factor: How much do you want to spend and think long and hard about if you will want to go higher later. I have 8" of lit in the front of the tahoe and would love another 3+"

I think the CV angles should be okay with that RCX kit. That kit comes with drop brackets and now it looks like it has new ball joints too. But now they are saying that its a 2.5" kit.