long post ahead.. lol
as I understand it, parts are available to rebuild these trannys. motors (there's 2)and all, but difficult to find a shop to dive into it. there's a book about them and some tear down videos on YouTube.
I was going to say doing a compressing check on that cyl and compare it to others, but not 100% sure how to do that haha. I believe you can pull the injector plugs and it will spin the engine over for a bit with the key, as it spins it very fast and people have confused it with the engine cranking and then dying. turns out it was just the starting sequence and they couldn't tell because there's no starter gear sounds. I believe there's only a set amount of times it will try to start thou before throwing a fault code.
basically other than fuel and spark, all your really need is compression. so be nice to see if you have a valve not sealing for some reason before taking it all apart. also exhaust leaks have gotten a few people thinking it was a tick. but you just had your heads off, so I doubt it's that. unless you used a paper gasket and it blew out. I alway reuse the oem ones when they are multi layer steel.
hp tuners will flash and disable the afm in the computer. that's what I use on mine. not a lot of tuning parameters enabled like on a normal engine and no transmission tuning. top of my head I remember afm enable/disable. tire size speedo cal, wot fueling but no part throttle ve table or maf cal that I saw. there's speed limit cut adjustment to raise the top speed, but a guy on the hp tuners board says hp engineers actually have that location wrong, and it's changing a different setting in the ecm. I've not touched it to try.
the cam change would be very interesting. I honestly don't know how it would work out, if there's enough adjustment built in that it would run well part throttle and then you can adjust wot fueling with hp or not. by wide open throttle, it doesn't have to be foot to the floor, just anything above 70% ish tps or 70kpa map will get you out of closed loop fueling and into open loop, where the ecm is no longer looking at the o2 sensors to adjust fuel trims on normal ecm's, again not 100% sure on this one but probably the same.
cam tuning can require some throttle opening adjustments and stuff with the drive by wire stuff so it idles right. which has to be done in the software, not like with the old cable throttle, you could just adjust the throttle stop set screw. I'd find a tuners that was interested in tuning it for you before you do the swap and can't find one. unless you wanna go down the tuning ribbit hole, which while super rewarding is always a steep learning curve. I've tuned a few things from my old diy obd1 prom days to my. 08 c6 with hp and honestly I've avoided putting a big cam in my ls3 because cam swap drivability is the hardest part and I very much dislike driving badly running cars for a few more hp these days, and I have no desire to deal with tuning shops even thou I know it can be done well.
younger I didn't care so much about part throttle issues haha. they do sound cool thou.
I don't want this to sound like I'm trying to talk you out of it, I'm super curious if it would work or not and how it drives. in theory the electric would help a big cam get the heavy truck rolling and then use the extra hp up top. since there's no torque converter, you wouldn't need a higher stall speed one but that said, just for info to watch out for. this has a special cam grind, not just the afm stuff, but it's called late intake closing(Miller cycle).
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In theory it gives up off idle tq for efficiency in the mid range, they offset that cyl pressure bleed off from the late valve closing with higher compression ratio, so we have a different piston than the normal 6.0. so make sure you have the needed piston to valve clearance. I don't know if they would clear 600 lift or not. maybe thou, just a question to ask.
the dodge version of this hybrid, the Dodge Aspen didn't have the late intake closing cam. I have always wondered how they drove. they did list lower epa mpg ratings but that could be engine design as well. the ls is a pretty economical v8 when setup to be and gm seems to have done a lot to enhance that here. definitely run 93 in your truck after the cam swap with the higher compression and cam not bleeding off cyl pressure.
super interesting and I would love to try some things with mine, but it's 90% the wife's daily soccer mom van and my tow vehicle a few times a year. so byond trying out the lithium battery change, I've mostly decided to leave it alone. by go the cold air intake with scoop thou. my other project cars take up to much of my time as it is. but I would be lying if I haven't wondered what long tube headers and a free flowing intake would do to help fuel mileage. that and the late intake cams love boost. with the lack of any accessories to deal with, a small roots style blower like the lsa pulled to make say 4psi would be very interesting and easy to run a belt to haha. but they want way to much money for those things. the Ford take offs are cheap, and they make adapter brackets now, but they want 1400$ for a chunk of cnc aluminum. feels ridiculous and you're back at lsa money.
either way, keep us updated with what you do.