'07 Yukon XL Tailgate not going up/down via power

[BSarteSr]

Hooked up my scanner, just like I thought, did not tell me anything so I have a mechanic who says his scanner will read everything, even open/close doors so have to wait to Thursday to bring it over to him.

Will update this thread when I learn more!

 

[wjburken]

wjburken:

Did you make that video?

I watched it (excellent video) and got the panel side panel off, disconnected the computer and took the whole motor with brackets off/out.

Learned the hard way that I need the computer hooked up to the vehicle to be able to open the tailgate latch because I did not take the tailgate cover off, so I had to crawl back in from the front to reconnect the computer so I can open the tailgate. LOLLLL

So now I have the motor out and wondering if their is any way to bench test it? Probably not.

Any suggestions?

No, I did not make that video. I ran across that video when another member was having issues and I tried to find some information to help them. Knock on wood, I have not had an issue with the tailgate lift on any of the Yukon's/Suburban's that we have owned of this body style.

I would think that you would be able to "bench test" it by hooking it up to the vehicle with the lift bar released and watching it operate. Otherwise, if you can figure out the wiring, you could hook power to the correct pins for lift and for close.

 

[BSarteSr]

OK, some very good updates....

Took the Yukon over to a guy that does work on the Yukon at times and he put it on his SnapOn Scanner, 2 interesting codes:

B153A Liftgate Latch Switch Signal Circuit Signal Invalid (symptom 08)
B153E Liftgate Position Sensor Signal Circuit Signal Invalid (symptom 08)

At 1st glance it looks like this issue is the Liftgate Latch on the tailgate......

Wondering about the 2nd code? Is that the sensor on the motor for UP/DOWN positions?

 

[BSarteSr]

Not sure where the issue is and hesitant to buy a new GM Lift Gate Latch, seems like part #15839037 is the correct one, so found a 2013 one, going to give it a try to see if this is the issue.

 

[BSarteSr]

OK, got the lift gate latch, came out a late model Acadia. Took about 30 minutes to swap them and it works now.

So now I know what the symptoms of the lift gate being bad is......something I really did not need to know but you know how that goes!

 

[Greaser007]

OK, got the lift gate latch, came out a late model Acadia. Took about 30 minutes to swap them and it works now.

So now I know what the symptoms of the lift gate being bad is......something I really did not need to know but you know how that goes!

@BSarteSr - I had to respond to your Tailgate Latch / Liftagate Latch thread posing.
I just did fix my wife's 2007 Suburban powered liftgate which suddenly quit going up on about May 03, 2022. Great Scot.

So, after hours of scouring the net for wiring diagrams for circuit chasing, I came across this Posting of yours.

I disassembled both the Liftgate motor-drive mechanism, and checked the solenoid clutch for operation and the gear teeth, with all lookng newish. Solenoid clutch electrically operating just fine. ( reminds me of an a/c clutch ).

So, here is the hard cold truth:
I took my wife's '07 Suburban 2500 4x to the local dealer and was quoted $1,785 smackers for new Liftgate assembly, Latch and struts. Technician indicated liftgate motor failure and latch and struts. OMG
I am 70-years old, and my dad was a lifetime gm parts guy, so I am used to considering parts Interchange.

I ordered GM part #84243380 Liftgate Latch from RockAuto and was delivered yesterday at 11:30am.
I unpacked it this morning and took me a whopping 20-minutes to install. I pushed the upper console switch from 'disable' to operational position, pushed the lift actuator switch and the Powered Liftgate unlatched and went up as it should like Normal. Yeeeeaay. big smiles.

For those concerned or having powered liftgate / tailgate problems here is the deal. (my conclusion) read below.

I disassembled the latch assembly looking for a switch which communicates sending a signal to the module attached to the Liftagate assembly. I was able to only remove the electric motor and bull-gear (ring-gear white plastic). All was good. I couldn't disassemble anyfurther, so no evidence of the "suspect switch" communicating with the liftgate module.
Now that the powered Liftgate Latch / Tailgate Latch is operational again, I'm going to perform "Open-Heart-Surgery on it to find the ghost switch which is apparently not working.
An electrical switch can only open and close a certain number of times before the contacts become corroded or compromised and fail to make a good connection.
Relay's go bad because they are an electrically operated switch closed by a solenoid activated by the switch circuit.

Each time I have had a Relay failure, and circumsize off the plastic cover exposing the contact points, they operate as designed once cleaning the point contacts.
We can do this in an emergancy on-the-road if you have a hacksaw blade to cut and remove the relay cover.
Easy Peasy.

Moral of this comment:
If your powered Liftgate or Tailgate is not powering-up, chances are the hidden switch in the Latch has failed.
Today I am One-Happy-Camper.

 

[Geotrash]

@BSarteSr - I had to respond to your Tailgate Latch / Liftagate Latch thread posing.
I just did fix my wife's 2007 Suburban powered liftgate which suddenly quit going up on about May 03, 2022. Great Scot.

So, after hours of scouring the net for wiring diagrams for circuit chasing, I came across this Posting of yours.

I disassembled both the Liftgate motor-drive mechanism, and checked the solenoid clutch for operation and the gear teeth, with all lookng newish. Solenoid clutch electrically operating just fine. ( reminds me of an a/c clutch ).

So, here is the hard cold truth:
I took my wife's '07 Suburban 2500 4x to the local dealer and was quoted $1,785 smackers for new Liftgate assembly, Latch and struts. Technician indicated liftgate motor failure and latch and struts. OMG
I am 70-years old, and my dad was a lifetime gm parts guy, so I am used to considering parts Interchange.

I ordered GM part #84243380 Liftgate Latch from RockAuto and was delivered yesterday at 11:30am.
I unpacked it this morning and took me a whopping 20-minutes to install. I pushed the upper console switch from 'disable' to operational position, pushed the lift actuator switch and the Powered Liftgate unlatched and went up as it should like Normal. Yeeeeaay. big smiles.

For those concerned or having powered liftgate / tailgate problems here is the deal. (my conclusion) read below.

I disassembled the latch assembly looking for a switch which communicates sending a signal to the module attached to the Liftagate assembly. I was able to only remove the electric motor and bull-gear (ring-gear white plastic). All was good. I couldn't disassemble anyfurther, so no evidence of the "suspect switch" communicating with the liftgate module.
Now that the powered Liftgate Latch / Tailgate Latch is operational again, I'm going to perform "Open-Heart-Surgery on it to find the ghost switch which is apparently not working.
An electrical switch can only open and close a certain number of times before the contacts become corroded or compromised and fail to make a good connection.
Relay's go bad because they are an electrically operated switch closed by a solenoid activated by the switch circuit.

Each time I have had a Relay failure, and circumsize off the plastic cover exposing the contact points, they operate as designed once cleaning the point contacts.
We can do this in an emergancy on-the-road if you have a hacksaw blade to cut and remove the relay cover.
Easy Peasy.

Moral of this comment:
If your powered Liftgate or Tailgate is not powering-up, chances are the hidden switch in the Latch has failed.
Today I am One-Happy-Camper.

Yes. I recently replaced mine in my 2007 as well, after first taking apart the lifting motor and gearbox and finding no problems. When you finally find the offending switch with the gummed up contacts deep inside the latching mechanism, please do let us know so I can take my old one apart and fix it to have a spare.

 

[Coolman1987us]

I'm about to tackle this problem also. Pretty sure I have the same problem.