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07+ Brake upgrade on a 00-06 NBS, is it worth it?
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Not seeing any photo.....
nofeardiver
TYF Newbie
Weird was a screen shot of the website and the kit. Must have stripped it, I have successfully installed the Power Stop PWR-KC2067-36 kit for an 2007 on my 2005 Denali. The SS lines from Russel was fun, very stiff but was cold out so didn't help. But wish they had the same brackets as original and a little longer so could route them like the original lines. Here couple pics, to note i do have swapped rims and they are 20s, so no problem with clearance but don't think would be an issue with the oem rims.
diLucca
Member
Hi folks,
I see almost everyone used PowerStop brand.
Did anyone used ACDelco New calipers https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10617353&cc=1442911&jsn=19698
And Raybestos EHT Hybrid Pads and Specialty Truck Rotors, or R300 rotors?
As I am not fan of reman calipers and drilled rotors.
Q: Am I right the difference between 2007 and 2008+ only should be in caliper bracket for different shape of pad hardware?
Thanks in advance.
I see almost everyone used PowerStop brand.
Did anyone used ACDelco New calipers https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10617353&cc=1442911&jsn=19698
And Raybestos EHT Hybrid Pads and Specialty Truck Rotors, or R300 rotors?
As I am not fan of reman calipers and drilled rotors.
Q: Am I right the difference between 2007 and 2008+ only should be in caliper bracket for different shape of pad hardware?
Thanks in advance.
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HiHoeSilver
Away!
I did. Here's what I used from RA. Don't forget the 5% discount code.
I used Goodridge stainless lines and rotors/pads direct from R1 Concepts.
I believe you are correct about the difference from 07 to 08+ being the drag reduction clips. They do have different casting numbers.
The NNBS brake upgrade started in 2005 on the pickups. The NBS version uses a different caliper and pad than the NNBS and K2XX (also the same brakes). The rotors are the same. If you order the parts/kit, and are getting new calipers, I would order for 2008-2018, just in case 2007 is different. Since they are supposed to keep parts going for years afterwards, this would mean the last year this part was installed from the factory was 2018, as opposed to pads that end in 2007. They probably won't ever stop making them, but I would think it would give you more options down the road. Here's some information I compiled.
I am not a mechanic, just a low level DIYer, but I have learned about brakes. I've posted this before, but this is a good place to have it.
The Fronts:
The NNBS / GMT900 brake upgrade came on some NBS / GMT800 Silverado and Sierras, (If they got good brakes in the front, they had drums in the rear. If they had the disc brakes in the rear, they had the smaller brakes up front). Also, there were two different versions of this brake upgrade. I believe the 99-04 had 4 wheel disc, and the 2005-2007 classic got the NNBS + upgrade with drums in the rear.
2005-2006 SILVERADO/SIERRA 1500 EXCLUDING: Hybrid, SS, HD, & rear disc; Had the larger 13" rotors.
------- 2007 SILVERADO/SIERRA 1500 Had the same 13" rotors but had the same earlier pad # as 05-06.
(The website I got this information from I believe this should be considered NBS 05-07 and NNBS as 08+)
What I found for the SUVs were listed as 2007 only to be the same as the 2005-2007. I don't know if this is for another country or not. It seems really odd that only the first year of the SUVs got them.
- YEARS --- PAD # ------ MODEL ----------------------------- YEARS ----- PAD # --
2005-2007 - D1092 - SILVERADO/SIERRA 1500 --------- 2008-2014+ - D1363
------ 2007 - D1092 - AVALANCHE 1500 ------------------ 2008-2013 - D1363
------ 2007 - D1092 - ESCALADE (EXCL EXT & ESV) ----- 2008-2015+ - D1363
------ 2007 - D1092 - ESCALADE (ONLY EXT & ESV) ----- 2008-2014 - D1363
------ 2007 - D1092 - SUBURBAN 1500 ------------------- 2008-2015+ - D1363
------ 2007 - D1092 - YUKON 1500 (INCL XL & HYBRID)- 2008-2015+ - D1363
------ 2007 - D1092 - TAHOE ------------------------------ 2008-2015+ - D1363
------------------- EXPRESS VAN 1500 ---------------------2009+ - D1363
------------------- SAVANA G1500 --------------------------2010+ - D1363
THE NNBS upgrade also includes the K2XX. The calipers, pads, and rotors did not change from 2007 to 2019 (K2XX).
The pads are almost completely identical in size and shape, but they attach differently to the caliper. They both use the same rotor, but if you are possibly piecing together from different locations (such as ebay or a friend and trying to save a few bucks), you will need the pads that goes with those years calipers (/vice versa). If you are ordering all of it at once, and have the option, personally I would order the 2008+ (even 2009+) year, simply because the K2XX (generation 14+) used the same front brakes as the NNBS. So getting pads down the road should give you more options. I THINK the earlier calipers have a finned design.
I see recommendations for PPV (police) brakes. Personally I wouldn't use them in my own vehicle. Yes they should have higher temp seals, but that shouldn't matter unless you are track racing your vehicle or doing excessive high speed hard brakes repeatedly to where they will heat up. They are designed for a full tank police chase. The biggest problem I have with PPV brakes is (and this is verbatim for what I found), "they are designed to be quiet", (so cops can roll in without screeching brakes on a bunch of vehicles). I DON'T KNOW FOR CERTAIN, as I couldn't find a definitive answer, but I believe this means these pads don't have that metal tab that squeals to let you know your pads are low like all other pads do. These are considered a fleet vehicle pad, so they are expecting them to be inspected quite frequently. If someone who has them, has gotten them low enough to answer this, sure would appreciate a answer as to either way. Every other pad squeals when the pads are getting low for safety and so you don't wear away your rotors and ruin them with a little grinding. The PPV pads are not supposed to be any better than any other pad, and depending on what type of pad you want (ceramic, organic, etc.), these are probably not the best option anyways. I don't think you can get the calipers unloaded, but that should be enough for you to make your own decision.
The REAR BRAKES on the 1500 NBS/GMT800 SUV are a 13" rotor with a 2 piston caliper, which is larger than the pickups 12.8" rotor with single piston caliper. The GMT900 rear is a 13.6" IIRC rotor with a single piston caliper. Its a larger rotor with a smaller pad and less clamping force. I would consider this a downgrade to change the rears to GMT900. The avalanche and later SUVs got this setup, but the pickups did not. For the NBS suvs, you already have the good rears.
(Back to the FRONTS If you absolutely had to for some reason, the 12.8" NBS rotor will work with the 13.0" GMT900 calipers/brackets/pads. There is a .4" difference in rotor thickness to allow for better venting on the newer rotors. This makes it a different hat size (how far off the mounting surface the caliper sits). When its all installed IIRC the front side will be at the right distance and location, but the back/inside of the pad will be .4" farther away from where it would be with the correct parts. The pads themselves have a material height of roughly .5" - .75" depending on the pad. I AM NOT RECOMMENDING THIS, I AM NOT SAYING THIS IS SOMETHING YOU SHOULD JUST DO, I'm just saying if FOR SOME REASON, your options were this or nothing, (maybe you got the wrong parts, or somewhere out on the road where you don't/can't wait), this SHOULD work temporarily to put the GMT900 pads/calipers on GMT800 rotors to keep you driving.
If you are going to use drilled rotors; make sure they are holes that were cast into the rotors and not drilled in afterwards. Drilled rotors seem to always be the "cool thing" for most, but drilled rotors are designed to let excessive heat and gasses escape to help keep the rotors cooler. The key here is EXCESSIVE HEAT. These are designed for what is mostly track use. The closest real world comparable use for drilled rotors would be someone who punches it, SLAMS on the brakes, in stop and go traffic and loves to get it up to highway speeds then slam on the brakes again. Then does this multiple times a minute for a 10+ minute commute. If you were to drive in such a way that you would NEED drilled rotors on public roads, you would most likely earn a ticket for reckless driving. If you are not psychotic, and just daily driving, know how to coast at all, then you won't NEED drilled rotors. Drilled rotors have less surface area then blank rotors. DRILLED ROTORS WILL CREATE LESS FRICTION WITH THE PAD THEN BLANKS. If the rest of your braking system is up to it, then drilled rotors will take a slightly longer distance to make a single stop then blanks would. If you are more concerned about a single stop then you should be using blank rotors. The best analogy I have is: if you live out in the country, and your biggest concern is not high speed, aggressive stop-and-go driving then you don't even want drilled rotors. If your biggest concern is more of where a large animal like a deer running out in front of you, and going from 60+ to 0 that one time where an extra 5 or 10 feet means stopping short or hitting a large animal, then you should definitely be using blank rotors. From what I've experienced, if you live out on the coasts (LA and DC type traffic), and drive aggressive rush hour traffic then you would probably want drilled or maybe slotted rotors. If you are somewhere in between then maybe slotted are best for you. Slotted give you a happy medium, and are usually known to be less prone to cracking that can happen with drilled, or warping with blanks. If you are a casual driver who wants good working brakes, there is no reason to go with drilled. If you have earned your share of speeding tickets, would like to test yourself on the tail of the dragon, or have two heavy feet and don't know that you are making the slinky effect worse, then you should be considering drilled rotors.
If you are wanting to upgrade your brakes, and budget comes into the picture at all, then you probably want to do the GMT900 front upgrade. After that you should be looking at hydroboost. This will give you a more firm pedal feel (because the lines are filled with fluid which won't compress like air in vacuum brakes). If you are towing heavier loads, this should definitely be on your list. Here's a good hydroboost write up..
https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...nstall-417445/
I did this and love this upgrade.
If the GMT900 brakes just won't do it for you, (and you can do at least a thousand for one set of brakes, your next upgrade options going towards big break kits are the SSBC tri piston calipers, or the "rudy's bracket" C6 corvette, Z06, 6 piston caliper upgrade (closer to $1500), and you will need 18" wheels for both of these options.
http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/topic ... onversion/
After that its a full 6 or 8 piston setup for $3K-$4K for just the front set.
BUT WAIT, The next big factory upgrade is 95+% here, (as of copying this over, there may be some new information I'm not aware of). The newest Silverado and Sierra models (T1XX) have an optional 4 piston fixed caliper in the front on a 14" rotor. (Unless there's a thread I missed, ) This has already been adapted to fit on the earlier models. There is a few mm difference in where it mounts or it would be ready to go to be a big upgrade for the previous 3 models (NBS, NNBS, K2XX / 99-2019). I don't know why I can't find the parts right now, but I have seen the factory setup (pads, rotors, and calipers) for under $500 shipped on Rockauto, but now I can't seem to find the part numbers). SOMEBODY needs to do some quick math, and machine out a bunch of adapters, and do an old fashioned group buy, (PM me PLEASE, if you do. I'm IN!). --- I know there are at least a couple NBS pickups that had the parts ready to install, but haven't heard anything further. Still not sure if a bracket is even needed or if this will bolt right up, or what size wheels you will need, (18s or bigger).
MrTravelDog
TYF Newbie
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Anyone know the minimum wheel size associated with the upgrade. I’ve heard a 20” wheel is minimum is this true?
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Sam Harris
Supporting Member
If you’re referring to the NNBS upgrade on an NBS, minimum wheel size is 17”. If you’re referring to the previous post, I’m not sure. There are several different options listed there.
Sam Harris
Supporting Member
Just want to add: I’ve had my NNBS upgrade on now for a couple months, and it’s absolutely worth it. Braking is MUCH better! Definitely a worthwhile upgrade, and I also recommend going with a set of stainless braided lines.
And the install:
And the install:
diLucca
Member
What about dust shields(backing plate), will also work a bigger one from NNBS07+?
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