07 4L60E trans question

[992dr]

A couple of weeks ago during a 6 hour round trip excursion my CEL came on at the very beginning of my drive because my converter did not lock up. P0700 & P0741. So, I limped there and home at 50 mph for the 6 hour drive, I was kinda freaked out that my trans would explodebut, made it home without issue.
Dropped the pan and replaced my TCC transmission control solenoid and filter. Put the same fluid back in and went for a few little trips and it seemed fine even though I babied it.
Had to take another 6 hour trip and it locked up and everything seemed fine again, RPMs dropped like normal, and it drove fine. Then randomly it unlocked and locked up again but the RPMs never dropped. When I drive at 60mph its usually around 1800rpm. This time it was 60mph and it was around 2200/2300rpm.
After this trip, no codes, nothing. The only difference is I burned up some gas.

I was hoping to get at least 300k out my 4l60e and not have to drop $4k+ for a reman locally. Or close to that for an aftermarket + install.
Has anyone else experienced this?
What could be the problem?
Could it be my converter? It's an FTI 2800/3000 billet stall.

Thanks

 

[wjburken]

@NickTransmissions might have some thoughts on this.

I do have one question….why did you put the same fluid back in j stead of taking the opportunity to put fresh fluid in?

 

[992dr]

I put the same fluid back in because I had it serviced a couple of years ago and hadn't put that many miles on it. It didn't look bad.
I was going to put fresh but a buddy recommended to keep the fluid and see what happens. From my understanding new fluid can cause slippage.

 

[wjburken]

I put the same fluid back in because I had it serviced a couple of years ago and hadn't put that many miles on it. It didn't look bad.
I was going to put fresh but a buddy recommended to keep the fluid and see what happens. From my understanding new fluid can cause slippage.

Gotcha. Everyone has their beliefs and ways of doing things and that’s fine.

I myself never bought into the whole new transmission fluid causes issues in old transmissions and I have never put any fluid that came out of my vehicle back in. No fluid is expensive enough for me to try and save money by reusing it.

 

[992dr]

Gotcha. Everyone has their beliefs and ways of doing things and that’s fine.

I myself never bought into the whole new transmission fluid causes issues in old transmissions and I have never put any fluid that came out of my vehicle back in. No fluid is expensive enough for me to try and save money by reusing it.

This is the first time doing it. I didn't feel good doing it but since I had to drive so far, I was more concerned with longevity. I will be replacing the fluid with new.

 

[NickTransmissions]

From my understanding new fluid can cause slippage.

How exactly did you acquire this "understanding" about new fluid?

 

[992dr]

How exactly did you acquire this "understanding" about new fluid?

My friend had brought it up, otherwise hearsay.
This was the first time re-using fluids. My main concern was making the drive. I will be replacing the fluid with new.
I'm just trying to get more experienced diagnosis because everyone around here wants to replace it without attempting to even look at it.

 

[NickTransmissions]

My friend had brought it up, otherwise hearsay.
This was the first time re-using fluids. My main concern was making the drive. I will be replacing the fluid with new.
I'm just trying to get more experienced diagnosis because everyone around here wants to replace it without attempting to even look at it.

I'd listen to your friend less; a lot less - at least when it comes to transmissions.

Do you have a bidirectional scan tool?

 

[992dr]

Unfortunately, I do not have a scan tool.

 

[Trey Hardy]

Unfortunately, I do not have a scan tool.

Fti is supposed to be quality stuff I’ve got a 4wd 4l60 with 175k miles I’ll let you get cheap but you would have to pull it out I could help you do that if need be but it sounds like something else maybe electrical in the computer or the sensors that’s a weird issue.
I always had Jamie Parker in havelock to tune my stuff and he has always had the transmission tuned dialed in perfectly but your right nobody around us wants to mess with transmissions there is one fella in James city Newbern way that is supposed to be good I had terrible luck with Ammco recently so avoid them IMO
Performabuilt is supposed to be pretty good built transmissions

 

[NickTransmissions]

Unfortunately, I do not have a scan tool.

Id invest in one. Autel is prob the best bang for your buck and should give you all the capabilities you need as a DYIer. Not having a scan tool puts you at a huge disadvantage; they typically pay for themselves in one to three uses vs going to a shop to have them use their scanners and charging you $$$ for that service.

You need to find out if the PCM is commanding the TC off or if the TCC is releasing when it shouldnt be. If the TCC duty cycle is at or near max in third or fourth gear while cruising and slip speeds are higher than 10-15 rpm then there's def a problem. From there, you need to find the source of the problem.

The list of suspects are the following:
- TCC solenoid/harness (you replaced this - what tcc solenoid did you buy?)

- Worn TCC regulator valve (valve body) - very common in these transmissions

- Worn TCC apply valve (pump) - less common but i see it from time to time on the vac tester

- worn 2-4 band

- worn/failing 3-4 clutch pack

- Worn torque converter clutch and/or failing torque converter

Given the amount of miles on your trans, I'd begin saving for a rebuild if you havent already done so.

Are you open to learning how to rebuild it yourself?

 

[992dr]

Fti is supposed to be quality stuff I’ve got a 4wd 4l60 with 175k miles I’ll let you get cheap but you would have to pull it out I could help you do that if need be but it sounds like something else maybe electrical in the computer or the sensors that’s a weird issue.
I always had Jamie Parker in havelock to tune my stuff and he has always had the transmission tuned dialed in perfectly but your right nobody around us wants to mess with transmissions there is one fella in James city Newbern way that is supposed to be good I had terrible luck with Ammco recently so avoid them IMO
Performabuilt is supposed to be pretty good built transmissions

FTI does have a good reputation, but mine was installed about ten years ago and there was a little drama with the shop who did it. FTI will rebuild/re-stall my converter but it's going to take up to 3 weeks.
Mine is 2wd, I appreciate the offer Trey, you're a good man.
I met Jamie years ago when I first moved here. I haven't had the pleasure of working with him just talked to him a few times. He's a good guy.
I asked a local trans guy if he would install an aftermarket transmission, and he said no. I had an FLT in my 2dr Tahoe. Yes, Performabuilt are quality, I was also looking at Gearstar.

 

[992dr]

Id invest in one. Autel is prob the best bang for your buck and should give you all the capabilities you need as a DYIer. Not having a scan tool puts you at a huge disadvantage; they typically pay for themselves in one to three uses vs going to a shop to have them use their scanners and charging you $$$ for that service.

You need to find out if the PCM is commanding the TC off or if the TCC is releasing when it shouldnt be. If the TCC duty cycle is at or near max in third or fourth gear while cruising and slip speeds are higher than 10-15 rpm then there's def a problem. From there, you need to find the source of the problem.

The list of suspects are the following:
- TCC solenoid/harness (you replaced this - what tcc solenoid did you buy?)

- Worn TCC regulator valve (valve body) - very common in these transmissions

- Worn TCC apply valve (pump) - less common but i see it from time to time on the vac tester

- worn 2-4 band

- worn/failing 3-4 clutch pack

- Worn torque converter clutch and/or failing torque converter

Given the amount of miles on your trans, I'd begin saving for a rebuild if you havent already done so.

Are you open to learning how to rebuild it yourself?

Is there a specific model Autel I should look for?

I replaced the solenoid with an ACDelco solenoid.

Is the TCC regulator valve the same as a Fitzall valve?

I'm looking for a new trans now, I'll be calling them tomorrow.

I think I'd really enjoy rebuilding it. Unfortunately, it's my daily and I don't have a back up vehicle.

Thanks Nick, I appreciate the help and info.

 

[NickTransmissions]

Is there a specific model Autel I should look for?

Search 'Autel Scanner' on Amazon and review the different options that come up in the search

Is the TCC regulator valve the same as a Fitzall valve?

The TCC regulator valve is the valve...Fitzall is a company that makes updated/corrective valving that replaces the factory valving in that location in the valve body...The problem with the factory valve train is that it prematurely wears, causing later, harsh 1-2 upshifts, TCC problems and other symptoms due to the wear. the Fitzall valve corrects this by sealing off the bore with o-rings...Transgo also makes a .0005-.0007 oversized TCC valve and spring that comes in their SK4L60E shift kits. Sonnax makes an oversized valve kit as well but you'll have to ream the bore using specialized tooling/fixtures.

You're welcome - good luck with it and let me know if you have any more questions.

 

[992dr]

Search 'Autel Scanner' on Amazon and review the different options that come up in the search

The TCC regulator valve is the valve...Fitzall is a company that makes updated/corrective valving that replaces the factory valving in that location in the valve body...The problem with the factory valve train is that it prematurely wears, causing later, harsh 1-2 upshifts, TCC problems and other symptoms due to the wear. the Fitzall valve corrects this by sealing off the bore with o-rings...Transgo also makes a .0005-.0007 oversized TCC valve and spring that comes in their SK4L60E shift kits. Sonnax makes an oversized valve kit as well but you'll have to ream the bore using specialized tooling/fixtures.

You're welcome - good luck with it and let me know if you have any more questions.

Ok cool, I'll search tonight for the scan tool

Gotcha, Yup, I installed a fitzall valve for that reason. I had work done a long time ago (have a thread here somewhere), it's a long ridiculous story.

Thanks again

 

[992dr]

Well, it's been quite a while, and it hasn't worked itself out but it's staying together
I think I might be going a different route than the 60E. Only because my diesel mechanic friends partner at his shop is a GM tech (who's building a bad ass 1st Gen S10) with some tuning capabilities and I found a rebuilt 04/08 80E w/converter and 1 year warranty and no core for less than even the basic built 60E.
This is just in the talking faze as of now I'm waiting for him to squeeze me in to get it on the computer and get a thorough diagnosis. I'm just hoping to get in with him this week, not the greatest time of year for things to happen especially "favors" I certainly don't want to burden him. Plus, I'll get a nice roll cage tig job out of it
More to come enjoy your weekend

 

[992dr]

Man, this has been a long road, of course it has to happen this time of year.
Still nothing but finally connected with the tech and will be going to see him next Tuesday, we'll go for a ride, and he'll log everything to see what's exactly going on and we'll go from there.

I hope everyone has a Happy Holidays and gets to enjoy some family time

 

[992dr]

Met up with the Tech this morning hooked it up and went for a ride.
Long story short no swap at this time, so, I'll be replacing my converter.

 

[992dr]

@NickTransmissions going through some older threads I saw you mention the thickness of the converter clutch being at least .050 thick and your builders are .070 thick.
The brand I'm looking at use woven carbon clutch packs and are a standard .020 thick. Lighter better materials but at what trade off. It's not a reman and it will also have a billet front plate.
What are your thoughts?
Does your builder have them with billet front plates?

 

[NickTransmissions]

@NickTransmissions going through some older threads I saw you mention the thickness of the converter clutch being at least .050 thick and your builders are .070 thick.
The brand I'm looking at use woven carbon clutch packs and are a standard .020 thick. Lighter better materials but at what trade off. It's not a reman and it will also have a billet front plate.
What are your thoughts?
Does your builder have them with billet front plates?

It's your money, do with it what you want but I have never heard of anyone making the trade off you mention above when it comes to converter clutches...Are you saying the "lighter" clutch somehow provides measurable gains over a thicker (and vastly superior) clutch? Or am I misunderstanding?

Billet covers arent needed unless high performance or frequent HD towing/hauling.