04 Yukon No rear heat

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72ranger

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There has been several post on this but swapping the actuator did not work in my case so I could use some advice…. I have a NO HEAT scenario in the rear of the Yukon.

When removing the temperature actuator I can easily turn the knob which allows hot air to blow out the vents. So my thought was since the actuator isn’t turning that it was bad. I ordered a new AC Delco actuator and it still does not work. So what else could it be? Both actuators plug in to another box, I think it is called an HVAC Aux Control Module. Is this most likely my problem. Below is what I got while troubleshooting the voltage…

Hot/Cold Temp Actuator
• Brown Wire 14 volts
• Gray Wire 4.99 Volts
• Blue Wire 0 Volts unplugged, 4.99 Volts plugged in. Note: Voltage does NOT change when changing temp settings.

Blend Door Actuator
• Brown Wire 14 Volts
• Gray Wire 4.99 Volts
• Yellow Wire 0 Volts unplugged, 4.99 Volts plugged in. Note: This voltage drops to roughly 1.3 volts when changing from floor to ceiling

---------- Post added at 08:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:19 PM ----------

Oh, one other thing, I did unplug the battery for about 10 minutes. That did not work either.... I read some where that might possibly reset the actuator or something.... NO DICE...:emotions122:
 
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72ranger

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Ok, well I ordered the Control Module. I guess I will find out if that fixes the problem...

I guess the shot gun technique is what works.... :shrug:
 

tast101

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A dealer told me I had to order the module, when I had some other work done. Told em I'd do it later since it was the middle of summer and in the triple digits. Still need to fix mine, but I'm in cali so I can deal with it. Think it was bout a hundred bux awhile ago. Have the dealer diagnose it for you.
 
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72ranger

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It is fixed now, it was the control module. Here is what I have, and hope it helps others troubleshoot and be able to tell which is broke without changing both parts....

# 1 Actuator controls the air from the floor to the ceiling.

• Brown wire- 14 switched voltage
• White w/black stripe- 2.5 volts. Note: when the control is moved from the floor to the ceiling, the voltages drops out to near nothing, mine reads .03 volts. Once the air has been moved the voltage returns to 2.5 volts.
• Gray Wire – Don’t know – No Voltage
• Yellow Wire- 0 volts when unplugged. 4.99 volts when plugged in to the actuator. Note: This is my assumption; that this voltage comes from the gray wire and flows back to the Aux. HVAC Control Module. Also when the control is moved from the floor to the ceiling this voltage drops to roughly 1.3 volts.
• Gray Wire- 4.99 volts both plugged in or not. Note: I believe that this voltage flows to the actuator and back out across the yellow wire back to the Aux. HVAC Control Module.

Auxiliary HVAC Control Module has 2 plug ins.

• Red Plug- This plug controls both actuators.
• Gray Plug- Guessing this plug goes back to the controls and switches.



# 2 Actuator controls the air from the floor to the ceiling. This is the actuator that is not working for me. Note: When this actuator is working properly it will turn a little bit at a time until its blending at the correct temp...

• Brown wire- 14 switched voltage
• White w/black stripe- 2.5 volts. Note: when the control is moved from the floor to the ceiling, the voltages drops out to near nothing, mine reads .03 volts. Once the air has been moved the voltage returns to 2.5 volts. Also since this actuator is not working the voltage does NOT change when the controls are changed from hot to cold.
• Yellow Wire – Don’t know - No Voltage
• Blue Wire- 0 volts when unplugged. 4.99 volts when plugged in to the actuator. Note: This is my assumption; that this voltage comes from the gray wire and flows back to the Aux. HVAC Control Module. Also when the control is moved from the floor to the ceiling this voltage drops to roughly 1.3 volts. Also since this actuator is not working the voltage does NOT change when the controls are changed from hot to cold.
• Gray Wire- 4.99 volts both plugged in or not. Note: I believe that this voltage flows to the actuator and back out across the yellow wire back to the Aux. HVAC Control Module.

I also spoke to a retired GM mechanic, he states there is also a relearning step that needs to take place after replacing any these items, which includes removing all fuses that have anything to do with the HVAC system for about 5 min. Place the fuses back in; then turn the ignition to the on position for about 2-3 min. BTW this did not work either…. I would think if you were to unplug the negative side of the battery it would do the same thing….



I replaced the actuator based on voltage levels being good, and what I read on the internet. Replacing the actuator did not work.

Ok I ordered the Control Module, and it came in today. It now works!!!

Ok here is how I am looking at it. If you test the White W/Black strip 2.5 Volts, Blue 4.99, and Yellow 4.99, and the voltage does not change when you adjust the knob/switch the look at the Control Module. If your voltage changes but the actuator does not turn, look at the actuator. If you don’t have voltage at all well then look elsewhere.
 

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Cadallic88

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Yukon 2004 Rear Heater blows cold air only

I have a Yukon 2004, just recently purchased... rear heater blows only cold air. I bought the Hayne's DIY repair manual - $27 - but after I tore off the plastic shrink wrap and read the section for Rear Heater/Air Conditioning - Automatic controls, I was real disappointed to read that these systems are beyond the scope of the of a DIY'er sort of person, apparently. You can totally tear apart the entire engine though, right down to the bare block, bore it out it, reassemble it, all with painstakingly detailed steps and photographs... but a rear AUTOMATIC heater? Whoa, that's going to be way too complicated, dude! Maybe I should have bought the Chilton's manual instead.

72 Ranger - thanks for your teardown info, your remedy, and the photos you posted. I still managed to make a few errors though. First I thought I'd just pull off the heater actuator and have a look at it. It seemed to be stuck in the cold air position. So I used a large flathead screwdriver to rotate the socket to the hot air position. If you listen while forcing it to turn you can hear the gears and motor spinning. I went too far though and ended up seizing the gears way past the hot position (the actuator therefore has more range than the flap it controls. Up to that point I was not sure at all whether or not the actuator was previously functional, but I tend to think it was functional. Anyway, the next thing I noticed was the other actuator had all the same part numbers on it; so I used that one in place of the one I just broke. The heater controls now worked! Yeah, I could get hot air or cold air and any temperature in between. So I ordered a new actuator the next day (today) and installed that in the airflow control actuator location. Everything worked great. I ran the truck for 15 minutes while trying all the settings from the rear controls. Everything was fine. Then I drove around a bit, running a few errands, and parked, and thought - I'll just check the heat again. I wrested control from the rear by switching the fan control off AUX on the front overhead console, adjusted the front heat control to maximum heat and the airflow to above and held my hand over one of the rear vents and waited for hot air... only to feel cold air blowing constantly, again. I switched it to cold then hot... nothing, cold/hot/cold/hot... nothing. Then I can't remember all the other useless things I did in hopes of stumbling on some magic combination. Nothing. Unbelievable! Incidentally, these actuators cost $131 apiece. And I'm thinking I either wasted that cash because the problem is somewhere else, or something is frying the actuators after a bit of use and I've only just begun to throw cash at this problem. I felt like just giving up. I went inside and gave the bad news to my wife - she was not impressed at all. Berated (but motivated again), I went back out and tore it all apart again, but no new ideas came to mind - I stared at it all quite blankly. For a long time. It shouldn't need recalibration because it was working fine. But then I thought maybe the way I reverted control to the front had something to do with it and the cold position is a default position or something of the sort. I thought just disconnecting the control module (in between the 2 actuators) should be the same as removing fuses, so I gave it a try. Waited 10 or 15 seconds before reconnected them (like I read somewhere). Started the vehicle and waited while watching the actuators. The airflow immediately went to the full on floor position, stayed there for 5 or so seconds, then went back to the mid-point that that knob was set to - all by itself. Then the Temp actuator went to full heat for the same 5 or so seconds, then it returned to full cold, all by itself. I checked the temp knob and that was what it was set to. I turned the knob to hot and this time the actuator moved - hot air! Next, I switched the controls to the rear (AUX) and operated the actuators - all fine. Then I turned off the rear controls with the off button before turning the front fan control off aux. This time it operated from the front with no problems at all. I think my actuators were fine to begin with (I wish I hadn't broke that one) and just needed recalibration. Further, I think if the rear controls are on and set differently then the front, and you take the AUX off, that forces whatever settings are on the front control to immediately interrupt/change everything in the rear. Maybe that's confusing the system? If this is indeed a possibility then I think the system is at least a little bit flakey. I'll just have to take care that the rear controls are off before switching to the front controls. This could be a control module issue I suppose - but its working now even though it remains a bit on the fussy side.

A couple of notes - the GM dealer where I got the actuator was kind enough to print off an exploded view of the heater/air conditioner assembly along with all the part numbers. That was very helpful in understanding how the air flows and what the flaps do; didn't explain any of the weirdness of course. And imagine, that print-out only cost $131! Also, two of the parts had service bulletins associated with them - the heater control module(operates both actuators) was one - but the actual bulletins were not part of that print off. It just noted that a bulletin was issued at some point in the past. Would be nice to read those bulletins I think. The parts counter couldn't retrieve the bulletins.
 

Cadallic88

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2004 Yukon - Rear Heater Blows Cold Air Only

Okay - here is the fix per GMC Bulletin mentioned earlier - the rear module is flakey and can get mixed up. It will set a DTC code but not set the engine light so you don't even know a DTC is there. The rear aux control module places the temp actuator to the default position (cold air) until the DTC is cleared. You heater will then work until the next time it happens. What happens is the controller tries to move the actuator further than physically possible. Here is the bulletin;

#06-01-39-015A: Unable to Control Rear HVAC Temperature or Modes, Intermittent Ticking Noise from Rear HVAC Actuators or Rear HVAC DTCs B0434 or B3764 (Replace Auxiliary HVAC Control Module) - (Jan 12, 2007)


Subject: Unable To Control Rear HVAC Temperature Or Modes, Intermittent Ticking Noise From Rear HVAC Actuators Or Rear HVAC DTCs B0434 Or B3764 (Replace Auxiliary HVAC Control Module)


Models: 2003-2006 Cadillac Escalade Models

2003-2006 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe

2003-2006 GMC Yukon Models

with Automatic Control HVAC System and Rear A/C (RPOs CJ2 and C69)




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This bulletin is being revised to correct one of the blower motor control module part numbers. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 06-01-39-015 (Section 01 -- HVAC).


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Condition
Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:

• An intermittent ticking/clicking noise from the rear Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) system.

• Unable to control rear HVAC system temperature.

These conditions may be caused by HVAC actuators that hunt for the correct position. This cycling may cause a clicking or ticking noise.

An overtravel of the HVAC system control doors may cause one or more of the above system conditions. If an overtravel occurs, a DTC will be set, and the door will go to a preset default position.

When a system door defaults, that door will stay at the default position until the DTC is cleared. Clearing the DTC will allow the door to operate properly until the overtravel condition reoccurs. The following table lists the DTCs that may have been set and the door that is associated with that code.

Overtravel DTC
System Door Affected

B0434
Auxiliary (rear) Air Temperature Actuator

B3764
Auxiliary (rear) Mode Actuator

Correction
Technicians are to replace the auxiliary (rear) HVAC control module with the part number listed in the table below. Refer to the Auxiliary Heater and Air Conditioning Control Module Replacement procedure in SI for more information. This module contains a new calibration to compensate for the actuator overtravel condition and the hunting/clicking noises. The new calibration effectively eliminates DTCs B0434 and B3764. The new control module also eliminates the default position of the doors associated with the DTC. The new control module will allow door travel from counts 0 to 255 without setting a DTC or defaulting the door.

The new auxiliary HVAC control module is compatible with either the first or second design blower motor control module. When using the new auxiliary HVAC control module, the customer may notice a slight increase in the rear blower motor speed (approximately 50 rpm) at a given setting, as compared to the blower motor speed at the same setting with the original HVAC control module. If the customer comments that the increase in blower speed at a given setting is objectionable, the blower motor control module may be replaced with the second design part listed below to correct the slight increase in speed.

The revised auxiliary HVAC control module should not be used unless one or both of the DTCs are set or one or more of the conditions listed above are present. The revised auxiliary HVAC control module will not correct any other DTC or Air Conditioning (A/C) performance concern.

Parts Information
Auxiliary HVAC Control Module Part Number
Description
Qty

15832319
Module Assembly-Auxiliary Heater & A/C Control
1


The blower motor control modules listed below should not be used unless the customer finds the change in blower speeds between the original and the new auxiliary HVAC control modules objectionable.

Blower Motor Control Modules Part Number
Part Description
Vehicle Application
Quantity

89024926
Module Assembly, Auxiliary Heater & A/C Control (Auxiliary Blower Motor Control Module) (Second Design)
Escalade, Tahoe, Yukon (vehicles with a short wheelbase)
1

89018849
Module Assembly, Auxiliary Heater & A/C Control (Auxiliary Blower Motor Control Module) (Second Design)
Escalade ESV, Suburban, Yukon XL (vehicles with a long wheelbase)
1
 

2003GMCYukon

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This was very helpful. I have a 03 Yukon with this exact issue. Dealer charged me $125 to tell me it was the module, now wants $550 to replace the module. Tech time is 3.5 hrs to calibrate the new unit. I can get the part off the web for ~$100. Does anyone know if there is a massive calibration process that would take 3hrs to complete? Thanks.
 

nicegy31

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Hi I am having problems with my rear heat as well and would like to know where are these relays located in the car? If you can send me a private message would be appreciated..
 

maduro

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Same issue here on my '03 Yukon. Where exactly are these actuators located?
 

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