‘15 Yukon XL SLT 100k Mile Service Recommendations

[Tommyd123]

Hi! My 2015 Yukon XL SLT is about to hit 100k on the clock and would like to know some recommendations on where to apply funds to the car. Plan on keeping this truck for a while so I would like take care of it as much as I can. This is also our main family hauler, and it it’s starting to feel a little worn; I’d like to do what I can do make this vehicle feel as new as possible.

We tow a 6000# camper pretty frequently, so right now I’ve got brake pads/rotors and full suspension on my list.

Is there anything preventing me from doing the suspension work myself given access to a lift and tools? Any recommendations on specific suspension brands or components?

Thanks for the help!

Thomas.


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[wjburken]

Hi! My 2015 Yukon XL SLT is about to hit 100k on the clock and would like to know some recommendations on where to apply funds to the car. Plan on keeping this truck for a while so I would like take care of it as much as I can. This is also our main family hauler, and it it’s starting to feel a little worn; I’d like to do what I can do make this vehicle feel as new as possible.

We tow a 6000# camper pretty frequently, so right now I’ve got brake pads/rotors and full suspension on my list.

Is there anything preventing me from doing the suspension work myself given access to a lift and tools? Any recommendations on specific suspension brands or components?

Thanks for the help!

Thomas.


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Have you owned the vehicle since new or did you buy it used?

The basics are still the basics. Keep the fluids for your driveline fresh buy changing them at least as often as the manual suggests, if not sooner, especially if you tow, which you said you do. When is the last time you have had your differentials drained and refilled? Transmission pan dropped and filter replaced? Transfer Case fluid changed if 4WD?

In my experience, shocks last about 80K-90K so I’m thinking you are due for some new stuff. The tears are very easy to do. The fronts, if you can get pre-assembled strut/spring assemblies, are a little more involved but can be done on jack stands with normal tools save for the large spindle but if it’s 4WD. If you get just the front shock and plan on swapping the spring, you will need a good, trustworthy, highly recommended spring compressor that is made to handle the springs that are on our trucks. Take it in to get the alignment checked if you do the fronts. If you’ve never had it aligned, it would be a good idea to take it in anyways.

I would get a set of plugs and wires as they are recommended to be changed at 95K-100K.

Serpentine belt and A/C belt would be a good idea as well.

That should be a good start.

 

[Tommyd123]

Have you owned the vehicle since new or did you buy it used?

The basics are still the basics. Keep the fluids for your driveline fresh buy changing them at least as often as the manual suggests, if not sooner, especially if you tow, which you said you do. When is the last time you have had your differentials drained and refilled? Transmission pan dropped and filter replaced? Transfer Case fluid changed if 4WD?

In my experience, shocks last about 80K-90K so I’m thinking you are due for some new stuff. The tears are very easy to do. The fronts, if you can get pre-assembled strut/spring assemblies, are a little more involved but can be done on jack stands with normal tools save for the large spindle but if it’s 4WD. If you get just the front shock and plan on swapping the spring, you will need a good, trustworthy, highly recommended spring compressor that is made to handle the springs that are on our trucks. Take it in to get the alignment checked if you do the fronts. If you’ve never had it aligned, it would be a good idea to take it in anyways.

I would get a set of plugs and wires as they are recommended to be changed at 95K-100K.

Serpentine belt and A/C belt would be a good idea as well.

That should be a good start.

Thanks for the quick response.

Bought the truck with about 40k on the clock, changed the oil at recommended intervals. The vacuum pump or brake booster went and the associated belt was replaced, don’t remember if it was the serpentine or an accessory belt.

Differential (RWD) and transmission fluids have never been changed.

Good call on plugs and wires.

So is it a good idea to do the springs along with the shocks? Both front and rear? I have auto leveling, does that change anything as far as difficulty with the suspension repair?


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[swathdiver]

Hi! My 2015 Yukon XL SLT is about to hit 100k on the clock and would like to know some recommendations on where to apply funds to the car. Plan on keeping this truck for a while so I would like take care of it as much as I can. This is also our main family hauler, and it it’s starting to feel a little worn; I’d like to do what I can do make this vehicle feel as new as possible.

We tow a 6000# camper pretty frequently, so right now I’ve got brake pads/rotors and full suspension on my list.

Is there anything preventing me from doing the suspension work myself given access to a lift and tools? Any recommendations on specific suspension brands or components?

Thanks for the help!

Thomas.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Start with fluids and plugs and wires. This includes your power steering and brake fluids and coolant. Ditch the thermostat on your transmission. I'm perfectly happy with the OE brakes on my truck so that is what I replaced them with. Will do the same with the suspension. The pre-assembled strut assemblies for my generation truck from GM are far inferior to individual parts. Always choose GM OE over ACDelco Professional if given the choice.

Do you run air lift springs out back to help with towing?

 

[wjburken]

Thanks for the quick response.

Bought the truck with about 40k on the clock, changed the oil at recommended intervals. The vacuum pump or brake booster went and the associated belt was replaced, don’t remember if it was the serpentine or an accessory belt.

Differential (RWD) and transmission fluids have never been changed.

Good call on plugs and wires.

So is it a good idea to do the springs along with the shocks? Both front and rear? I have auto leveling, does that change anything as far as difficulty with the suspension repair?


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On the front, it’s up to you if you by a whole strut assembly or just the shock and swap the spring. I have always gone the full assembly route as I typically do work after all the local shops are closed and I need the vehicle running the next day and I don’t have spring compressors that I trust.

Auto Level doesn’t really change the difficulty on the rears. Just adds some extra connections for air and harness. Make sure to double check the ABS harness connections after doing them because it is common to bump them loose when putting in the upper bolts.

 

[Tommyd123]

Start with fluids and plugs and wires. This includes your power steering and brake fluids and coolant. Ditch the thermostat on your transmission. I'm perfectly happy with the OE brakes on my truck so that is what I replaced them with. Will do the same with the suspension. The pre-assembled strut assemblies for my generation truck from GM are far inferior to individual parts. Always choose GM OE over ACDelco Professional if given the choice.

Do you run air lift springs out back to help with towing?

Why should I ditch the trans thermostat? What is the effect?

Don’t run any airbags except what comes with the stock auto-level.


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[Doubeleive]

in addition to the other things mentioned at 100k it's time to do all (4) 02 sensors, coolant flush if that hasn't been done, brake flush, not sure if yours has the electric power steering but if not then flush the power steering. other things cabin air filter if equipped, clean the throttle body if that hasn't been done. Otherwise it's advisable to get under it with a flashlight and just check everything, bushings, seals, brakes, u-joints, suspension. If you are in it for the long run if you check under it regularly then you know when something isn't right or when something starts wear out, I like to also just pop the hood take my flashlight and just look at everything real good, wire harness's, hoses, etc and look for stuff that is wearing or rubbing on something and adjust it as needed. good luck!

 

[Tahoe14]

Refer to your owners manual for maintenance as well. "Do not" pay full retail for parts as there are other outlets for parts such as ebay, rock auto, amazon, ect. Several Dealers sell parts on ebay with free shipping and no tax. As mentioned stick with GM oem parts. If you have air suspension and you want to delete it check with NORCAL SS who is a reputable suspension vendor on this forum. Good luck.

 

[swathdiver]

Why should I ditch the trans thermostat? What is the effect?

Don’t run any airbags except what comes with the stock auto-level.


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Ditching the transmission thermostat will lower its operating temperatures. Heat is a transmission's biggest enemy. GM added the thermostat to your generation for emissions and the result has been a shortened lifespan compared to the previous generation with the same transmission. If you change it every 45-50K miles though, that may negate the need to do it.

If she tows fine with auto-level then don't worry about it. It's more for those without the air ride suspension.

 

[Rdr854]

Ditching the transmission thermostat will lower its operating temperatures. Heat is a transmission's biggest enemy. GM added the thermostat to your generation for emissions and the result has been a shortened lifespan compared to the previous generation with the same transmission. If you change it every 45-50K miles though, that may negate the need to do it.

If she tows fine with auto-level then don't worry about it. It's more for those without the air ride suspension.

Will that cause a problem if an emissions inspection is required?