It’s a urethane material of sorts. They’ve deformed some, but they’re doing the job OK. If I were to come upon some metal 3/4” spacers I’d be quick to swap them out.
I run a 265/70-18 SL Falken AT3W. Same overall diameter as the 285/65 and no rubbing whatsoever ever with a RC 2” level.
I never see anyone run this size, but to me it was a no brainer. I had similar criteria to you.
My other taillight caught up with the other I was having intermittent issues with, so I couldn’t not have primary brake lights. Gathered up some soldering tools last night and fixed one.
Here’s a look at the part that breaks:
Perhaps this is useful for someone interested in repairing their...
Thanks for clarifying. Looks identical in design to my daystar 3/4” poly spacers. Mine are working fine, but one of them looks a little “smooshed” for lack of a better term and sit on the axle seat a little sloppy so I’ve been looking for a better fit.
Have a part number for the 3/4” rear spacer from RC? I’m assuming it’s not advertised for this application? I’m running a 3/4” poly Daystar. It’s working, but I’m not loving it (deforming a bit).
With absolutely nothing in the truck my measurements were 1/4” higher in the rear and it looked nose-high - an illusion. I think it has something to do with the arches, gap, or something.
I’ve seen some of the aftermarket taillights on other trucks around town and they look pretty good. Seems like a decent option to me. Which color/finish did you go with?
You’d have to cut the whole housing open. Just my opinion, but a lot more opportunity for moisture intrusion if you go that route. Doesn’t seem necessary if only the two known points are what fail.
You can just fix yours. Mine is having the same issue, but only when it’s hot out. It’s easy to fix if you’re even a little handy with a soldering iron. There’s two small points in the circuitry that very predictably fail, so you can open just that portion of the housing.
Look it up - it’s...
Rhino Rack Backbone looks pretty low. I like that it mounts to all 4 mounting points; Makes for a sturdy rack.
http://www.rhinorack.com/en-us/products/spares-brackets-components/roof-rack-parts/rhino-rack-backbone/rhino-rack-backbone-4-base-mounting-system-chevrolet-suburban_rcsb1
I wasn’t...
I drove the truck around on stock tires and the front level for about a week or two and didn’t notice any ride difference. Rear coil spacer made the ride a little harsher I thought (longer shocks might recover that). It’s not so much the level that impacted the ride quality so much as the tires...
Front level made absolutely no difference in ride quality. However, adding a small rear coil spacer made the ride a little harsher - I think that has more to do with the shock than the spring, but just as guess. Tires made the ride harsher still. The higher center of gravity is noticeable at...
Plastidipped my wheels black. Turned out fine, but I doubt it’ll last. Don’t know that I would do it again; a little bit of a learning curve. I bought black lugs, but they were too short so I bailed on them.
2”/0.75” & 265/70-18 Falken Wildpeak AT3W (32.6”)
Level was obtained with a 2” Rough Country (billet aluminum version) w/Daystar 3/4” rear coil-spacer (KG09103BK).
I went with this tire size over a few others to run a standard load tire - keeping the weight down - and factory width maintains...
There’s a fairly significant difference in cost between your three choices. Also, not positive but I think the Fabtech 3” is just a big leveling kit; The UCAs will help keep the upper balljoint from binding, but the CV angles will still be undesirable.
This is my first rig with this suspension setup. My last two were Land Rovers so I’m accustomed to a lot of suspension travel.
The level is a 2” Rough Country under strut spacer in the billet aluminum version. I got an alignment afterward. I’ll use a sticker or an oil-based marking crayon on...
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