Dude the 2k rpm is for flat tappet cams. Rollers don’t need it. I didn’t do any of that shit. Just got it to temp and started driving it with br30. 100-200 miles I swapped it out to mobil1. While it was getting to temp tho I topped off fluids and shit.
You really should’ve just checked if the converter in the l96 was the same as the one with a 5.3. The converter used for the ls3 cam should’ve just been a stocker.
Dude I didn’t hit mine with a deadblow at all.
Put it in. Torque all inside studs but the thrust. Leave thrust loose. Push the crank forward. Put dial indicator on it. Set it to zero. Push the crank back. Torque the thrust and push it forward again and make sure it returns to zero.
Finish...
I think your bearings were too tight and surface being what it is was no help at all. I think you should’ve went with a larger bearing. By the time you heat up everything you’ll have no space for earl.
Mine at at .0025. I am also going to beat the snot out of it and it’s making twice as much as...
You most certainly need to stop overthinking and over complicating it. Worrying about quench and polish grit on the crank. Your crank with such low miles shouldn’t be wearing the bearings so fast.
It sounds like this was an extremely sloppy build and expected the world from it.
Was any of the...
Used the improved racing one. Not that cheap Amazon one. It has two o rings.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/irp-egm-501
I used this in two builds. One is running. I also used the oil pan baffle and windage tray. Very nice stuff.
I used the lifter kit they have and back ordered them. Got em a week later. Plus the kits are more like “kits” that’s why they require balancing. Everything is Al a carte. Something on the kit is out of stock that’s why the kits out of stock. Back order that shit and you’ll get whatever they...
@Just Fishing
With my build I got a standard volume/pressure melling.
I agree with ditching that crazy pump
Also when cold start occurs you need to let it warm. Forged pistons have piston slap like @pwtr02ss has.
Forged pistons require coming to temp before use more so than hyperutectic. Forged grows with heat while the others don’t. So you will have rattling and damaged skirts if you don’t let them come to temp before driving.
This is overkill for me and I’m at 700 range. This is insanely overkill for you.
Well from the crank rods and pistons. Only the pistons are made in USA. Idk where the crank and rods are but summit don’t put their name on junk. I was happy with the quality when I got them in my hands. Tons of people using hem now days.
I bought everything from summit racing. Only one kit 58x 4.0 stroke and bore. Comes with bearings and everything. Upgraded to the tool steel wrist pins. They said to be 1000 and over it would be required. So for only like 30 bucks it was worth the upgrade.
Only thing you change is cylinder volume when you change displacement!
I used all summit pro ls stuff! Quite happy with the quality and balancing. No Mallory needed. Bought a whole rotating assembly in 4.0 stroke and bore. Brand new ly6 block too.
Forgot to add that my whole valvetrain is...
I just finished building a 6.6L and I have close to 200 miles on my build. No noises or anything. I however didn’t reuse anything except my oil pan. Everything is new. Block crank rods the whole nine. My build when finished tuning should make around 750ish to the wheels.
If the surface on the...
I towed my car on a uhaul car trailer. Not the dolly. Used regular mirrors just fine in my NBS. Have yet to tow with this but I don’t see myself getting different mirrors or anything to do so. I was able to see everything needed with the mirrors the truck came with.
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