Saying you need to replace the front end both sides is as vague as you can get. What parts you need to replace depends on what's worn out. If you're trying to save money there's no point in replacing stuff that's not needed.
You get what you pay for. A quick look at rock auto and GM and ac delco...
Sorry got the names mixed up with who posted what.
Mines also a 99. I can't tell from the pics if yours is a different latch all together or if that part that looks different rotates and is in the wrong spot. Do you have the black bracket to the left that the locating pin goes into?
You should be able to get something on it to pry the end back out of the hole with. Pretty bad if the hitch flexes that far to let it drop in there to begin with.
I love our 2017 Tahoe and would trust it as much as any other newer vehicle out there.
The huge plus about them is there's millions of GM trucks out there so parts snd service are never much of a problem with them.
On the ones I've messed with the handle is independent of everything. You use the key or power button to open the glass then you can pull the handle to put the tail gate down. Depending on temperature outside sometimes the glass doesn't release all thx way on the first press. Which is probably...
FWD cars can make that noise also under load so thats a good possibility. Chances are good it's something not directly related to the diff assembly since it was changed.
Are the roads clear? You've got more going on in 4wd which can cause added noise and using it when not needed can add stress to it and make noises more noticeable.
It should be one of the under hood ones and listed on the cover.
Hopefully they smartened up a bit over the older ones where the plugs are oriented in a way that makes them almost impossible to disconnect unless you've got more then 2 arms.
It all depends on location. I did a quick search and seeing majority of ltz going mid 20s in lot of areas with around that mileage (and some with a fair bit less). Even at 15k thats more around what the police ones go for around here.
My 2017 works that way, on auto with defrost on the fan stays low till it starts blowing heat then it speeds up. Which does make some sense because you're not getting that blasting of cold air at first.
Not sure on that. When I was looking I was watching local ads for people selling their stock rims for ones I liked and was looking at both the trucks and suv's. I ended up getting ones that had the sensors and good tires. I'm not an aftermarket rim person.
Other then Denali they're essentially the same except for appearance and the different packages so it comes down to which one you prefer the look of more and if you're happy with the pricing for the packages and options you want.
Around here GMC vs Chevy is equal in yards but also in sales...
Yes. Ours also came with 22s. I was looking at 18 for winter but ended up getting a set of 20s from a same generation silverado which were also one of the Tahoe rims.
Make sure you use the factory size tire for 18" or at least a common size with the sane overall diameter so that the speedometer...
It all depends on how well it was maintained. Check it out well, figure out what it's worth to you ahead of time. You can get some really good deals at auction but budget to spend something on repairs.
Unless you want to keep a bunch of modules on hand in case they're ever needed there's not much to do. Murphys law would probably come in to play and whatever you need you probably won't have.
If you're going on a trip make sure there's no neglected servicing you've been putting off and go for...
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