all fluids front to back. plugs and wires if previous owner hasnt done it already. check bushings, front end, etc. replace as needed. wish i still had my 01 4x4 tahoe sometimes. thinking about selling the denali for a 2500 sub/yukon xl. or a diesel. the denali is nice but not what i...
my rear sp rode like a tank for the first few weeks. they sofended up a little after that though and are acceptable to me. my springs, 5303, are a little stiffer than yours too i think. i have a set of bilsteins that are much softer than the SP i would sell for a decent price if you're...
is it possible? went to replace the blend door actuator and the arm coming from the blend doors was snapped off and fell inside the housing. im guessing that means i should replace the control box also? dont want to have to evac the system.
so i went to replace my rear blend door actuator and found out the arm going to the doors from the actuator had snapped off. does anyone have blend doors laying around or even a housing with the blend doors?
awesome. im ordering the resistors today. i did some research though and found the message will still be up if the compressor is unplugged. my compressor is sitting in a landfill somewhere. any idea which wires to use from the compressor harness to install a resistor there?
if no one has a set these are reasonably priced.
there are times we need it lol. the broken tab is fixable. id trade too but mine is my daily. cant go without the glass. would be tough to ship well protected since its curved. i like that glass without the rubber edge and with the plastic trim piece by the third brake light.
if you need 2" up front, get spindles. the lower you go with keys, the more bouncy. opposite of stiffer. these stops definitely help with the bouncy but it still wont be what you're looking for. its night and day with these vs stock and being lowered 1.25-1.5" up front. as a matter of fact...
I did some quick research and didn't find anything on TYF about these.
Been doing a lot of research about front jounce/bump stops after lowering the front of my 2004 Denali with the stock keys about 1.25-1.5". It rode like total shit. Just bouncy as can be. Looked below it a couple weeks...
sucking it up through the booster is only for the valvetrain. you have to put it in the tank for injector cleaning.
i would say half tank is fine. i usually run the stuff more concentrated that what the can says.
and speaking of, i need to pick some up tonight.
the intake bolts are not torque to yield. they have little rubber grommets on them that cushion when tightened. and the manifold is plastic. go ahead and torque those bolts till they stretch. youll be needing a new manifold.
no new bolt necessary. make sure grommets on bolts are ok. you can always do the valley pan gasket and oil pressure sensor while you're down there. but only if needed.
and, at least when i did it, theres 2 sets of felpros to choose from. get the more expensive one.
aerokroil is the best. another option is half and half ATF and acetone. better than PB blaster etc. before you try to break them free, take a punch and hammer and give each one a good tap to help break the threads from each other. keep the socket square and done rush or be wreckless trying...