have you checked the power steering fluid level?, has it ever been flushed?
generally the power steering pump or alternator are the only things that will whine some (not necessarily squeal unless they are on a last leg).
ac pump's tend to sound like a bucket of bolts being chewed up by a wood...
I would start at the battery and grounds, you could have spark but not a good ground.
or also check the ICM (ignition control module) that one is a classic problem, if that is bad everything else will be fine but it won't run and they tend to die out of the blue
I would be inclined to say if the rpm is fluctuating and you cannot feel or see a direct correlation in speed, then I would be pointing my finger at the transmission
there is no other logical reason, if it's running like dogshit then you would feel it, if the rpm gauge is floating around with no...
so the KA units do not receive vehicle speed data from a hardwired source?
seems like if it was self-determining vehicle speed that it would make it happen consistently, but this was very random
also the thousands of other times I have been in front of or behind ka it's only happened a few times...
there is a Chilton hardback 2008 shop service manual listed on ebay VOL 1 only
should be applicable for 07/08/09. they made some changes in 2010
it's only $25
just look up fog light relay wiring diagram on google there are tons of examples/diagrams, it's pretty easy to do. It should fit right in with your existing mods.
I wire HID's this way because they draw a lot of juice and they tend to work crappy if not wired up with relays. sometimes factory...
this was KA, they stopped using x/k here years ago, although the next town up is cheap there city pd still used k band at least up until about 10 years ago
I think it was more possible he was switching front and rear on/off and my detector was picking it up as such. that's just my guess
I am not personally "real" familiar with the aftermarket ignition that has been added but you could connect a relay directly the to the battery and controller and use your crank signal as the trigger, that would ensure 12v is going right to it. check that your grounds are clean and good also.
i am always skeptical of internal engine work myself and why it was done.
have you gone and looked at it? when you do ask for the service records and see what the paperwork say's, if it was done by a dealer it will have the reported issue, diagnosis and what was replaced.
besides it is a 2015...
ya, every once in a while someone will try to speed up but then there is that challenge, if they are doing a good clip I will back off but will still pass as soon as I see a opening.
I caught up to a highway patrol once before and he was doing to a pretty decent pace, I wasn't riding his ass but...
that's not what I mean, the security on the k2's is leveled up
with no programmed key at all it requires a certain procedure
with 1 programmed key it requires a different procedure to add another key
with 2 programmed keys it is like the gmt900's, which is easy
he got me, I can't deny that and apparently they are targeting that area because I have seen 4 cars pulled over in the exact same spot since then, basically each time I drive thru there. I need to slow down anyway for the time being.
just drove 4 hours, 2 of them thru tight twisty hairpin turn 2...
I didn't read this correctly at first, you can take a existing one to a hardware store and get the same length pitch & thread. or if you want oem or a "set" most likely you will have to order them, nobody seems to stock them.
usually the shocks are replaced in pairs because if one is worn out and leaking the other will be soon if not already.
use a spray bottle of soap/water mix and check for leaks. (bubbles)
be sure the pump is working.
the shocks should hold air for weeks without the pump being ran, so if you check...