On my old '11 5.3 w/range installed my I/M monitors would not run the EVAP tests. No CEL on or any codes stored. Only knew it as it wouldn't pass NJ inspection. I finally tracked it down to a bad MAP. It was erratic enough to stop tests running yet not bad enough to trigger any codes. My scan...
My '20 Traverse stays on a long time vs my '11 Tahoe. Tahoe's like to burn off the wire terminals on the glass though so don't wish for longer run times.
Besides worry about where you're going not where you've been. :D
My wife loves her '16 AWD 3.6 Equinox. She is a car girl and she says it puts sport in SUV.
At 90k miles, bought it in '16 as a CPO w/12k on it. Only a set of tires and brakes done to it.
Severe schedule maintenance adhered to.
With 310hp it is a little rocket.
When filling up do not try to get every last drop of gas into the tank. Just round off to the next dollar when pump clicks off and leave it. Overfilling forces gas into the charcoal canister and kills them.
Of course if you bought used you have no idea what the previous owner did.
At 100k miles one of my air bags got a hole in it. And it took out the pump from it running constantly. 2 new GM shocks and a Dorman air pump and I'm back to normal. New Dorman pump has thermal protection to help prevent burnout. I've got the electronic air shocks also so I went GM on the...
If a thief wants it then it's gone. A lot of ''steals'' are not driven away. Hidden under lift wheel lifts on 1 ton pickups are plentiful.
What works for the repo man also works for professional thieves. Rear tow and away it goes.
I did the AC OEM electronic air shocks off of Amazon for my '11. Only savings over RA was shipping as I'm a Prime member.
If OEM is not available, then I'm forced to have to mess around with the aftermarket.
RA search of the OE part number off the shock got me the current number.
Factory compressor is small and not designed to run long as the air volume it puts out is not a lot to fill the shocks.
Newer replacements actually have a thermal protection built into them to protect them.
Do not tap into it. Trying to use it for inflatables will burn it out.
I've been using Wagner OEX pads on my '11. I get 50k miles out of them with towing duty. At 150k miles now and ready for another brake job. I only use coated rotors also, not the painted but rust coated ones. They will be my 3rd set going on. My truck see's salt usage also. I do not like...
HID in my '11 low beams since '14. Just cheap 55w Chinese stuff. Had a couple ballasts go bad over 120k miles but I mounted them for under hood access. At $50 a set have spares is not an issue. I do a lot of winter driving as I snowmobile and ice melting heat in the headlights is critical. Plus...
My shocks always have air in them also. You may not hear them bleed down when stopped but they can self-adjust once moving. Sometimes I hear air release when jacking a loaded trailer off the hitch, sometimes not.
Replacement Dorman pump in there right now with 2 new GM shocks.
Just use the recommended oil, synthetic is the only real ''upgrade''. Who knows more, the engineers who get paid to blow them up in testing or the interweb?
Took my old '99 Yuk 5.7 to 220k miles on WM super Tech full synth. oil and sold it running fine. Guy who bought it ran it another 2 yrs...
Let go time is when things breaking on a regular basis and it's not getting you home type of failures. Currently waiting for a couple rack pressure lines to arrive as one is leaking due to rust.
I'm at the 150k mark and rust it getting to all the fluid lines on mine now. I've just started...
'11 were solid trucks. Old enough to get the new model bugs out. 150k on my LTZ now, bought it with 35k miles and serviced via the severe schedule with full synth. fluids. Other than the normal high mileage rear air shock issues and the normal front hub issues it's been great. I tow with it...