Fixed the right passenger side window burned out motor with a whole new el cheapo regulator assembly ( $37) Not too bad. Kid will be happy. Gee, wonder why it was that window. (200,434 miles).
What do you guys use for window regulator/motors assembly in the gmt800s. Right rear window died yesterday. First one to die on this truck at 201k. Rock auto doesn’t seem to offer GM or AC Delhi for RR. Aisin stuff is usually good. Would it be worth the $90 vs $36 for “whatever name”...
Started it up this morning to go rent a lawn aerator. Massive annoying loud whine through the stereo (left speaker only). Was really annoying. Thankfully disconnected the large connector under the cup holder and reconnecting it solved it. I’ll probably disconnect it again and spray some Deoxit...
You can at least check each one for resistance with your multimeter. You can do a rudimentary function check since they should create AC voltage also. Maybe your meter has a “remember peak” setting and you can test each sensor and compare. Keep in mind your results could be the knock sensor...
I would be questioning the knock sensors since that is the code you are getting. It is recommended to change the brittle harness when they are replaced.
Ok, makes sense to me then. $60 is $60 . I’d probably prefer the old OEM MC to a new aftermarket myself. My reservoir is also stained black and almost impossible to check, gotta shake it some lol
Mine would do all kinds of weird stuff intermittently. Say 1/4 when 3/4 full of parked one way, the opposite parked the other way. Even Pegged empty when full driving down the highway etc. only when I put in a new fuel pump, it was fixed
You might get lucky. I had to drop the tank to clear the lines fully. I had pellets all the way up to the purge valve on the engine. There more lines than you would think. I dropped the tank cleaned out all the lines, cleaned the inside of the tank, replaced the fuel pump, and all the evap...
Non foulest are a bandaid. Fix the actual issue. Have you checked for an exhaust leak? Use a leaf blower or reversible shop vac, blow it up the tailpipe. Spray soapy water all around the joints, o2 bing etc by the cats and look for bubbles.
It’s not too hard to remove- IF the screws aren’t corroded. I used a small right angle ratchet, it’s a small torx bit iirc. Very easy since mine is rust free.
You added a hitch it don’t forget there probably isn’t a trans cooler since it didn’t have a hitch, so if you’re going to much towing, you will want to add that too. I also bought one BECAUSE it didn’t have a hitch (and therefore never towed anything!), but the ***** is only used for cooler...
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