The adapter deletion plug only works for mechman alternators but it also deletes a lot of the RVC system there’s also a fused wire going to the alternator that’ll cause it this video is for a Cadillac CTS but a similar thing happens on all 2005 GM vehicles with the rvc sometimes the charging...
Im assuming you mean the RVC module mechman sells a bypass you will lose gas mileage though edit: you need a mechman alternator but they sell some affordable ones https://www.mechman.com/instructions-and-technical-resources/rvc-delete-instructions/
Well you know what to get when you have to get a new battery! If you get these military clamps or the marine ones I think you can get away without cutting the factory wires down just remove the factory terminals and plastic covers and use the ring that remains to mount it
Do you think i can get away with marine adapters straight to the ring? I keep seeing stuff on wire length issues if there is a length issue i can add a extension bar or something I also have a 1/0 car audio amp wire plumbed to the battery still need to do the big 3 upgrade and dual alternator...
I got that long one so I could add a audio amp without having to get specific hardware like listed and they only had that size in stock and didn’t wanna chop it down due to the gold plating corrosion resistant protection, the factory positive side is stripped out from the previous owner
I was...
Battery is ratchet strapped down because I think the previous owner got the wrong battery or lost parts for the battery hold down the ratchet strap was just added today to hopefully delay a new battery for A while atleast
So i know it’s a common problem to have but now it’s actually giving me trouble.
My truck kept trying to run purely on the alternator and almost didn’t start when I left work yesterday I have a aftermarket positive side post so I’m gonna need a replacement battery with standard top posts.
I’m...
Super steer makes good stuff so does kryptonite but currently I’m running trq stuff that was put on in a emergency but as stuff goes out I’ll put better stuff to clarify my truck shakes due to my bad hubs (extremely common) and one shredded wheel that’s unbalanced if you want unkillable tie rods...
The standard shackle will go over the muffler and clamp to the adapter on the small side and the 3” id(large side) will go to the factory pipe allowing me to straight pipe at any time with 2 nuts.
All lifted 2000’s gms shake going down the highway running slightly lower tire pressure sometimes helps or a steering stabilizer another thing is the pitman and idler arms they are sloppy even new ones unless you upgrade , my front wheel hubs are bad and that’s why mine vibrates
I would check your actuator position and the cabin air filter before anything else I’ve seen people spend hundreds over a cabin air filter or blend door actuator that failed
I would do something like that but I’m trying to leave mine as a light resto mod for example I have a couple inch lift mud tires 18’s basically stock sized tires wheel spacers ac and 2 12’s I’ve actually almost gotten it to the point I want it I’m pretty much down to aesthetics and just...
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