Rear U joint replacement
- Thread starter dkad260
- Start date
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Trey Hardy
8” fabtech icon coilovers uniballs 24x14on35/15.50
You can do it with a socket and a c clamp but it’s a biotch for sure. If you got a buddy or shop with a press it would be much easier to just unbolt it from the yoke pull it out and take it up to the shop.
Last time I tried the c clamp idea it made a 30-45 min job turn into a 4 hour job and had to use the torch to get it broke free granted this was in my 93 Silverado and it had the original u joints.
I got a new set for my 07 Tahoe but the factory ones some how are still holding up good so I threw them in my trunk just incase one were to give out while I was on the road.
If you see clips, then that's the way in/out. I'm not sure when the epoxy thing ended, but if memory serves me right almost all the new stuff with aluminum shafts have clips.
If you have a good vice, you can let it hold the yoke loosely (more like a contained rest of sorts). Use a pic to clean up the ring groove, emery cloth the yoke if it's corroded, then use a small amount of oil on your finger to lube the hole.
Once you get the u-joint in the yoke, you can slip the caps in until they are tight by hand. Hold the driveshaft so it's centered and engaging both caps (this keeps the needle bearings in their place). Then tap lightly with a hammer to seat the caps in.
Get one in fully and install the snap ring. Then repeat the other side. If it's too tight after setting it and putting the clip in, use the vice to support the other 2 caps and tap lightly at he yoke weld to back the caps out against the clips. Done this for years. It takes some practice, but works slick.
Joseph Garcia
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^^^x2^^^ Just be VERY careful not to upset the bearings in the cap while you slip it into the yoke. I once had a bearing drop down into the cap once, because I was not careful enough.
Learned these steps years ago and works great. Have to have a steady hand and attention to detail but it works.
Thanks for that info, greatly appreciated.
Could someone verify the part#'s for the front and rear? I assume the top two are for the '12 XL Denali, or the 3rd entry. I have a hard time with a $140 single U-joint lol. There are aftermarket options at half that pricepoint.
Could someone verify the part#'s for the front and rear? I assume the top two are for the '12 XL Denali, or the 3rd entry. I have a hard time with a $140 single U-joint lol. There are aftermarket options at half that pricepoint.
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
This tool = "where has this been my whole life"
I only paid about $60 about a month ago, so I would probably shop around for it first.
I spent extra because I know OEMTools rates their stuff for impact gun use...
Still plan on using some heat.
I only paid about $60 about a month ago, so I would probably shop around for it first.
I spent extra because I know OEMTools rates their stuff for impact gun use...
Still plan on using some heat.
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