2011 Chevy Tahoe. Z-71 4X4.

The Grey Beast said:

You said”Another weak spot in the drive-train is the engine's Active Fuel Management (AFM)/Displacement on Demand (DOD) system. It shuts off four of the eight cylinders under low load conditions. The problem is crudding up of the control system. You can do a search on the Forum for information for your engine and model year range.”

I must tell you I’m in California. Correct me if I’m wrong but you can insert a chip to disable the AFM. No matter how it’s done I’m under the impression that in California this is illegal. It’s due to the fact that disabling the AFM affects the emissions on the vehicle and if you live or have lived in California you know this is a big deal. However I’m told that when your registration renewal comes and smog
Checks are down each year you just pull the chip. Prior to inspection. Bear in mind I’m getting my info at the water cooler but trying to learn along the way.

Any thoughts?

Ken

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The AFM can (and should, if you wish to enjoy your truck for any length of time) be disabled. You can have it tuned out with a full tune (which I would recommend, for example @BlackBearPerf), or you can buy a device such as Range to disable AFM. Alternatively, you can drive it in 5th gear each time you start it up, to prevent it from using AFM. And of course the best option, to physically change the hardware, removing the weak links, and replacing with standard lifters, etc.. via a kit.

Another welcome from NH!! FWIW, I replaced the bulbs in the overhead housings to LEDs throughout my truck - was not horribly bright and adds much needed light to my old eyes! Also put LEDs in new headlight assemblies cuz, well, cannot see as well anymore and the added light helps. They are REAL bright so make sure to get them adjusted.

Sam Harris said:

The AFM can (and should, if you wish to enjoy your truck for any length of time) be disabled. You can have it tuned out with a full tune (which I would recommend, for example @BlackBearPerf), or you can buy a device such as Range to disable AFM. Alternatively, you can drive it in 5th gear each time you start it up, to prevent it from using AFM. And of course the best option, to physically change the hardware, removing the weak links, and replacing with standard lifters, etc.. via a kit.

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Sam is absolutely correct. The AFM on the 2007-2013 models is known to cause oil consumption issues and part damage so it is best to have it disabled. We do not feel it adds much of a benefit for those years. We can disable it so that the vehicle stays in V8 at all times. We can do it with a single-item tune which just disables the AFM or include it as part of a full tune. The full tune will also provide shifting improvements, an increase in throttle response, and power gains.

BlackBearPerf said:

Sam is absolutely correct. The AFM on the 2007-2013 models is known to cause oil consumption issues and part damage so it is best to have it disabled. We do not feel it adds much of a benefit for those years. We can disable it so that the vehicle stays in V8 at all times. We can do it with a single-item tune which just disables the AFM or include it as part of a full tune. The full tune will also provide shifting improvements, an increase in throttle response, and power gains.

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Speaking of Tunes - any upcoming specials or sales in the pipeline, say Memorial day or 4th of July????

The Grey Beast said:

You said”Another weak spot in the drive-train is the engine's Active Fuel Management (AFM)/Displacement on Demand (DOD) system. It shuts off four of the eight cylinders under low load conditions. The problem is crudding up of the control system. You can do a search on the Forum for information for your engine and model year range.”

I must tell you I’m in California. Correct me if I’m wrong but you can insert a chip to disable the AFM. No matter how it’s done I’m under the impression that in California this is illegal. It’s due to the fact that disabling the AFM affects the emissions on the vehicle and if you live or have lived in California you know this is a big deal. However I’m told that when your registration renewal comes and smog
Checks are down each year you just pull the chip. Prior to inspection. Bear in mind I’m getting my info at the water cooler but trying to learn along the way.

Any thoughts?

Ken

Click to expand...

well 1st and foremost, there are perfectly LEGAL means to electronically (by tune) turn off the afm so it will stay in v8 mode
that can be done with any number of carb legal canned tuners that you can buy either used or from ebay, or new from 4wheel parts or amazon or any number of places
you just have to be sure it is legal for sale in ca, when it comes time to do the smog just be sure to have the carb number from the tune device to provide to whoever is doing the smog they just verify the number int he machine/computer and you are good to go, you do not need to de-tune it or do anything.
if you do it any other way without a carb cerification then you may not pass smog.

other than that I would first concentrate of getting things maintenanced (like the fluids you already did) plus more, like coolant, brake fluid, power steering.
your 2011 DOES NOT HAVE a transmission thermostat, the information you were given was for vehicles 2015 or later

there are some post's on the forum already detailing all the things you may want to address at 145k or can expect to occur in the not too distant future. being you do not know the history there can be some things overdue such as 02 sensors.

wheel hubs typical life is 160k, fuel pump 160k, maf sensor 160k you see where this going.....
plugs n wires should be inspected those should have been changed at 100k like the 02 sensors

Fubar0715 said:

Speaking of Tunes - any upcoming specials or sales in the pipeline, say Memorial day or 4th of July????

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We will, most likely, be having a Memorial Day sale.

Another device that I really love is the AutoSync with BCM programming.($400 @ btdieselworks.com) The plug in unit will display sensor info in your dash display (gear, tcc lock, trans temp, converter slip, spark advance, intake air temp and a few others) It has a built in DTC reader so you can check for codes anytime (shows up on your dash display). Also has remote roll up/down windows, manual high idle and light flashers. Also you can push backwards on your mirror adjuster and view the rear camera for a few seconds.

With the BCM programming you can disable the auto doorlocks. (Main reason I bought it!). Disable auto headlights and DRL's, tweak your interior lighting and light configuration for approach and exit lighting. Adds extended accessory power, so when you take your keys out and open the door, you can still roll down your windows. Small things, but a couple were really bugging me, and a few features are really nice to have.

Doubeleive said:

well 1st and foremost, there are perfectly LEGAL means to electronically (by tune) turn off the afm so it will stay in v8 mode
that can be done with any number of carb legal canned tuners that you can buy either used or from ebay, or new from 4wheel parts or amazon or any number of places
you just have to be sure it is legal for sale in ca, when it comes time to do the smog just be sure to have the carb number from the tune device to provide to whoever is doing the smog they just verify the number int he machine/computer and you are good to go, you do not need to de-tune it or do anything.

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Good, but also damnit! Don't want to reflash ECM and purchase another device just for smog. Such is life.. in california..
IMO the shift tables are every bit as important as AFM delete to have a normal driving vehicle.. Unless you like tow mode all the time..

Doubeleive said:

if you do it any other way without a carb cerification then you may not pass smog.

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Wait, you said said "may" !

BlackBearPerf said:

We will, most likely, be having a Memorial Day sale.

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Awesome, will be anxiously watching...Of course, I am traveling that week so, please, give me a heads up. Finally ready to pull the trigger with a tuner from BBP!