SnowDrifter
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2016
- Posts
- 2,405
- Reaction score
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Brain dumping:
If I name off a part you've already replaced, I read your post. But.... You've replaced a lot of things and it's still being funny. And I don't quite hold a high degree of trust in new parts any more. Always verify.
- Fuel pump or fuel pump controller, depending on your year (separate module by the spare tire IIRC). Hook up a gauge, run it up by your wipers, and watch it. Should be >50psi at all times
- MAF, especially if you use an oil-wetted filter
- Missing MAF screen can sometimes make it fussy, though stalling is an unusual behavior
- Grounds / electrical connections. There are some grounds on the frame roughly under the driver's seat. Used for a lot of the car's computers. Also a common spot for things to get sad
- Again, depending on year, mix of bad alternator + bad battery could cause issue. Bad battery that has high resistance + a failing alt going full-field could be sending ~18v to the vehicle and tripping electrical bits into safe mode. I think 05+ has PCM controlled, so that wouldn't be a failure mode for those years
- Battery terminals on snug. Especially if you have e-fans.
- TPS / correlation. Both pedal and throttle side
- Again, depending on year, idle control valve (present if you have a cable-throttle on <2004 I think?)
- Vacuum leaks (look at fuel trims. >+/-10% is issue)
- Oxygen sensors (voltage should be bouncing between ~0.2 and ~0.8v. Staying at low or high needs to be looked into)
- Failing crank shaft / cam shaft position sensor (neeeeeed live data from scanner. This tells the engine when to trigger spark)
If I name off a part you've already replaced, I read your post. But.... You've replaced a lot of things and it's still being funny. And I don't quite hold a high degree of trust in new parts any more. Always verify.
- Fuel pump or fuel pump controller, depending on your year (separate module by the spare tire IIRC). Hook up a gauge, run it up by your wipers, and watch it. Should be >50psi at all times
- MAF, especially if you use an oil-wetted filter
- Missing MAF screen can sometimes make it fussy, though stalling is an unusual behavior
- Grounds / electrical connections. There are some grounds on the frame roughly under the driver's seat. Used for a lot of the car's computers. Also a common spot for things to get sad
- Again, depending on year, mix of bad alternator + bad battery could cause issue. Bad battery that has high resistance + a failing alt going full-field could be sending ~18v to the vehicle and tripping electrical bits into safe mode. I think 05+ has PCM controlled, so that wouldn't be a failure mode for those years
- Battery terminals on snug. Especially if you have e-fans.
- TPS / correlation. Both pedal and throttle side
- Again, depending on year, idle control valve (present if you have a cable-throttle on <2004 I think?)
- Vacuum leaks (look at fuel trims. >+/-10% is issue)
- Oxygen sensors (voltage should be bouncing between ~0.2 and ~0.8v. Staying at low or high needs to be looked into)
- Failing crank shaft / cam shaft position sensor (neeeeeed live data from scanner. This tells the engine when to trigger spark)
