Uh Ohh... Rear wheel bearings replacement

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2006Tahoe2WD

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Interesting. Did you maintain the differential with regular fluid changes? Fluid level in the differential is important also. I changed the bearings on my 02 at 160k as preventative maintenance and both the bearings as well as axles looked brand new still. I even opened up the bearings and inspected all the rollers and everything was still like new. No scoring or wear of any kind on the axles themselves either.

What noise are you referring to? If you hear gear whine I don’t see how you could hear bearing noise. Have you replaced the bearings? And do you have pics of the worn axles?

I've been doing regular diff oil changes. Not sure what the previous owner did. I got the car at 100k miles. Probably as you infer the previous owner didn't change the lube.
I didn't take pictures of the worn axle because it was at the local axle shop and I didn't think to take a picture. I do remember seeing how it was worn about 1/2 way across.
So far no new bearings or axles. I did have replaced the carrier bearings - which were making quite a racket.
 

Doubeleive

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Yes. I’ve never seen the axles worn at the bearings , maybe with 300-400k miles it might be an issue.
had numerous issue's on my 00 with rear axles, 3 set's of new (timken) bearings and new axle did not solve the problem I believe the axle housing was the issue but this was at 300k+ of beating on it. I sold it leaking at 324k and I know it went to the shop with the new owner for the issue because they mentioned it, not sure how they addressed ultimately though.
I could hear the axle bearing going out when it first started happening even with loud exhaust and beat thumping but I am more attuned to vehicle noise than most people.

**axle noise can be heard fairly well if you drive along a wall and I could make it come and go by driving in a slight S shape
 

Rocket Man

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had numerous issue's on my 00 with rear axles, 3 set's of new (timken) bearings and new axle did not solve the problem I believe the axle housing was the issue but this was at 300k+ of beating on it. I sold it leaking at 324k and I know it went to the shop with the new owner for the issue because they mentioned it, not sure how they addressed ultimately though.
I could hear the axle bearing going out when it first started happening even with loud exhaust and beat thumping but I am more attuned to vehicle noise than most people.

**axle noise can be heard fairly well if you drive along a wall and I could make it come and go by driving in a slight S shape
Yeah like I said at 300k miles I can see it. I believe some bearing issues can be the result of low fluid in the diff since the axle tubes are meant to be bathed in that fluid afaik and if it’s low the bearings can prematurely wear. There’s plenty of these trucks that never see new fluid in the differentials or see the level even checked. Same for the transmission and transfer case, fluid never gets changed.
 

PatDTN

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FWIW - as it was explained to me - when the axle (inner race) wears the axle can move up/down/etc. and it wears out the seal. Then you start getting oil near the brake lining. I have this happening on my right side and so far it is not causing issues with braking or dripping.
That was the case with mine. I knew shortly after I bought mine with 150k that the right rear brake was oily. I drove it for quite a while like that.
 
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truckguy

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Thank you!
Wanted to do a followup to my experience. Everything is back together, and the drone coming from my rear is gone! Yay!

A couple things I learned and wanted to share.

The first is - there are some very knowledgeable and generous people on this site -
Thanks to all of you for sharing and a special thanks to Rocketman for loaning his specialty tool to me for seating the tone ring, SUPER act of generosity!

Getting the C-clip back on was a bear. I tried for an hour to get it put back on. I needed that 1/8" of an inch that never came. I figured I turn the axle ever so slightly trying to remove it. I tried to put the pin back in the axle and it wouldn't go all the way in, so I knew something was out of alignment. I had my trusty helper (wife) slowly turn the axle until I could push the pin all the way in. Then I pulled the pin, and the axle would then push in the 1/4" I needed. The C-Clip then was a breeze to put back in.
Hopefully this helps someone else.

I buttoned it all up, threw oil in it and took it for a drive. The hum/drone was gone!

I do still have my "Service Traction control and stabilitrak and ABS" lights on. I don't know if these will clear over time or not but I'll stop in an autoparts store and have them read the codes and go from there.

Thanks everyone !
 

TollKeeper

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They wont clear if they have not already... There is another problem in the system. SRS and ABS codes will clear automatically when the error is corrected.. At least for vehicles produced before 2015. Not sure after that.

Time to borrow a SRS/ABS scanner, and see whats next on the to do list... You are gonna kick yourself if the sensor on the other side of the axle is bad!
 

Rocket Man

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Yeah you need to get the codes. It should have cleared right after driving it. Might be a front one or the other rear. Luckily the rears are easy to replace the sensor on. Fronts, I just do the whole hub if it’s got a lot of miles.
 
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truckguy

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Had to go to a couple different auto parts stores to find a reader that'll read abs codes.

It came up with C0561-71 and C0050-5A, which is the rear passenger side wheel sensor I assume?

I'm assuming the cheap ones on Ebay will suffice? They wanted $93 at Autozone for one. Yikes !

Again - Thanks ! I say that alot on here, but I really do mean it!
 

TollKeeper

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Rear passenger side? You got lucky for one of them.. Not the other!

C0561-71 - Is not a good code to get, I am pretty sure.. Hopefully someone with more experience can respond!

C0050-5A - Is the right rear wheel speed sensor.. I called it!
 
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Rocket Man

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I think the c0561-71 will clear once the passenger speed sensor is replaced. If I read correctly, it’s an EBCM code saying it’s not getting good data which makes sense if there’s a bad speed sensor. I’d replace the sensor and then see if they both clear.
 

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