What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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A note to you guys when using that valve core removal tool.....

Just remember the system is under pressure and it will want to push that plunger outward once the core is unscrewed. Same goes when seating a new core, you will have to put some forward pressure on it while getting it threaded in. This is especially true when doing the high side core.
 

randeez

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A note to you guys when using that valve core removal tool.....

Just remember the system is under pressure and it will want to push that plunger outward once the core is unscrewed. Same goes when seating a new core, you will have to put some forward pressure on it while getting it threaded in. This is especially true when doing the high side core.
without the compressor running they should have the same pressure :shrug:

jus givin ya a hard time, but yea without the compressor running both will have about the same after it sits a while 70-80psi depending on ambient temp. more than the low side would having running but def dont try replacing with the system running
 
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NotJLB

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So it arrived a half an hour ago and it was a total fail. I couldn’t get the quick connect fitting to stay seated on the port nipple. It kept popping off even when I had the core remover fully retracted. And yes, I was using the correct red one for the high pressure port. Super frustrating. Glad I didn’t cancel my appointment for Monday.
Ouch. Did you make a video? It would be a good one.

I hope mine works better (when it gets here).
 
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Since I got the new wheels and tires installed I've noticed two to three times when I am backing out of a spot at work and start to pull forward there would be a pop on the right side. I chalked it up to some of them black walnut shells around on the ground near where I park. It finally happened when I was backing out of a space other than work so I was hoping it wasn't the new ball joint going bad. Realized yesterday that the tire tread comes really close to the mudflap when turned all the way to the right. The Husky mudflap isn't flat and has a curve to it and the edge has a small lip sticking towards the tire. The mudflap hangs down and the mounting screws are higher up, so I may have to try heating it up with a heat gun and try to get it to not curve forward as much.

EDIT: after looking at it, I could probably just trim a bit of that lip at the inside bottom

20230129_155808.jpg
 

Charlie207

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Since I got the new wheels and tires installed I've noticed two to three times when I am backing out of a spot at work and start to pull forward there would be a pop on the right side. I chalked it up to some of them black walnut shells around on the ground near where I park. It finally happened when I was backing out of a space other than work so I was hoping it wasn't the new ball joint going bad. Realized yesterday that the tire tread comes really close to the mudflap when turned all the way to the right. The Husky mudflap isn't flat and has a curve to it and the edge has a small lip sticking towards the tire. The mudflap hangs down and the mounting screws are higher up, so I may have to try heating it up with a heat gun and try to get it to not curve forward as much.

EDIT: after looking at it, I could probably just trim a bit of that lip at the inside bottom

View attachment 390739

I cut the corners of my Husky mudflaps. Way easier than trying to heat/massage them into a new shape.
 

Doubeleive

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Since I got the new wheels and tires installed I've noticed two to three times when I am backing out of a spot at work and start to pull forward there would be a pop on the right side. I chalked it up to some of them black walnut shells around on the ground near where I park. It finally happened when I was backing out of a space other than work so I was hoping it wasn't the new ball joint going bad. Realized yesterday that the tire tread comes really close to the mudflap when turned all the way to the right. The Husky mudflap isn't flat and has a curve to it and the edge has a small lip sticking towards the tire. The mudflap hangs down and the mounting screws are higher up, so I may have to try heating it up with a heat gun and try to get it to not curve forward as much.

EDIT: after looking at it, I could probably just trim a bit of that lip at the inside bottom

View attachment 390739
are those 22's or 20's ? i have the same flaps on mine with the same size in 20" no rub, popping noise is often the front sway bar needing the bushings lubed, I have to lube mine about every 6 months or when the weather/seasons change
 

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