My 2022 Tahoe Bose Audio Mods

Like many of you, when I get a new car/truck I am compelled to do something to it. So I researched this forum and found all the threads on upgrading the Bose Audio system. Some people found the factory Bose system to be lacking at the subwoofer level. I found the bass to be marginal, not bad on some songs, and not enough on others. What I really found to be missing was the high frequencies, you know, the sizzling of the cymbals and the crisp clicks on the hi-hats. That might just be because I have a loss of high frequency hearing caused by a Fender Dual-Showman back in the 60’s. Before I get cranked up, let me thank JohnnyFamous, Sinewave, and all of the other forum members that provided so much needed information about their mods and installation.​

To make all of this easier to digest, I am going to divide my activities into a few parts (posts)…..PART-1 Speaker Wiring. I picked up the PAC Audio Speaker Connection Harness Kit APH-GM02. Now, as you know, getting to the Bose amp, in the 2021/2022 models is kind of rough on an old man like me. I only intended to do it once, so I extended the length of the Pac connector leads, as you can see in the photos. That allowed me to fiddle with the wiring thru the rectangle fuse box opening in the rear. As others have done, I ran a test frequency to all speakers to make sure that I knew what was what. I also measured the DC resistance of the speakers. FYI, here are some photos and diagrams ​

Part-2 Replaced Front Center Speaker with a tweeter. I used the BZRK Audio SST-160 Titanium Bullet Super Tweeter and mounted it on an old front center speaker frame. That tweeter really improved the high frequency response for me. It would be really easy for you to make your own bracket for this tweeter. I just happened to have an old speaker so I used the frame and the factory connector.​

Part-4 Power Supply. I bought a package of 40A Mcase fuses and used one to make a connector to access the rear fuse block. I used the empty fuse F21 Position to provide power. The F21 empty fuse slot was made for a 40A fuse so I felt comfortable tying in at that point for power. I added an in-line fuse holder and I am currently using a 10A fuse in it to power my small amp.​

My small amp, needed a 12VDC, hot-only-with-ignition-on, connection, for the remote (turn on and off the amp) function. I could not find one in X1, X2, or X3 connectors. While snooping around under the Tahoe right hand side quarter panel, I popped of a connector, near the rear, and checked it with the volt meter. I do not what the connector fed, but there was a BROWN wire that was dead, with the ignition off, and it was HOT, with the ignition ON. I tied into it and ran my wire almost straight up and into the right rear side panel, and then under the almost useless tool tray, and onto and into the left side panel where my amp was to be located.​

I mounted the amp, on a board using 1” plastic standoffs to provide an air space between the amp and the wood. The board & amp are tucked in the rear panel where a factory Subwoofer could/would have been for some other GM models. I added a few mounting screws to keep everything in place. The 8”X 8”X20” sub box sets in the floorboard between the rear passenger seats. It is tied down so it can’t slide around.​

Part-5 New Speakers. Will be updated after Christmas​

Runninstuff said:

Great write up. Won't you need a ANC bypass like they sell on lljcustoms.com? Could you have used a fuse tap for the 12V switched power?

Click to expand...

NyquistRate said:

I've read a little about the factory sub channel lowering power as volume increases. Have you measured for this "feature?"

Click to expand...