So, I do have JL1 on my 2012, and I also have that relay beneath the brake booster.
Installing aftermarket brake controller with factory ITBC (JL1)
- Thread starter dkad260
- Start date
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Just to clear things up, this thread is a spinoff from my other thread on the factory brake control not recognizing the trailer, found here:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...ke-controller-not-recognizing-trailer.135900/
I've tried to get the Yukon to see the trailer, now I'm working on an aftermarket brake controller in hopes to get some work done around the home.
I appreciate everyone's input.
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...ke-controller-not-recognizing-trailer.135900/
I've tried to get the Yukon to see the trailer, now I'm working on an aftermarket brake controller in hopes to get some work done around the home.
I appreciate everyone's input.
Yes, this is a good question.
I want to assume GM at the LEAST, ran the blue wire to the other side of the firewall.
Would be real nice if they ran it back near the 7-pin connector.
I will check tomorrow in hopes it's near the 7-pin.
I don't like to cut any of the factory harness. So my plan is if in fact I have to run a length of blue wire, is to fabricate a piggyback connector that dead-ends the factory blue wire from the ITBC, and allows me to add the aftermarket blue wire while maintaining the integrity of the factory harness. This way I can reverse the hookup and return to stock at a later date.
Should be fairly straightforward with a USCAR connector to loose wires, 7-pin connector, and a 7-pin trailer plug.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Where is in those diagrams posted, it does indeed go all the way back to the 7-pin connector.
The pics in this file have been shared, but check out the text regarding the JL1 option.
These are the two terminals listed for connection into connector X126 or X115.
These are the two terminals listed for connection into connector X126 or X115
The big question is the location of this terminal.
These are the two terminals listed for connection into connector X126 or X115.
These are the two terminals listed for connection into connector X126 or X115
The big question is the location of this terminal.
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swathdiver
Full Access Member
I think you've solved the mystery on how to undo JL1 and run an aftermarket controller. Nice work detective!The pics in this file have been shared, but check out the text regarding the JL1 option.
View attachment 377836
These are the two terminals listed for connection into connector X126 or X115.
These are the two terminals listed for connection into connector X126 or X115
The big question is the location of this terminal.
The plan was to install an aftermarket controller, while maintaining all the factory connections and the use of the ITBC at a later time if desired. I didn't want to drill any holes if possible, or cut any of the factory wires. Overall it's not much different than any other brake controller install.
For this project, I picked up a second harness for the Prodigy and temporarily swapped my old P2 controller from my other vehicle to make sure all would work first.
I used:
Curt 56229 replacement USCAR connector wiring harness
Curt 55415 OE 7-way RV blade socket. I wasn't sure if I needed the mounting holes but others will work.
Curt 58140 7-way plug
Approx 25' of 12 gauge wire and 3/8" wire loom
I have no idea where the factory blue wire terminates, so I just ran it from the aftermarket controller
Getting through the firewall grommet was a chore, I used a Klein fishing rod with a loop end. Having someone else to force it through while trying to keep it from poking through the grommet was a bit of a pain but all worked out.
I did tape up this wire and the end of the factory grommet before taping up the wire loom.
For this project, I picked up a second harness for the Prodigy and temporarily swapped my old P2 controller from my other vehicle to make sure all would work first.
I used:
Curt 56229 replacement USCAR connector wiring harness
Curt 55415 OE 7-way RV blade socket. I wasn't sure if I needed the mounting holes but others will work.
Curt 58140 7-way plug
Approx 25' of 12 gauge wire and 3/8" wire loom
I have no idea where the factory blue wire terminates, so I just ran it from the aftermarket controller
Getting through the firewall grommet was a chore, I used a Klein fishing rod with a loop end. Having someone else to force it through while trying to keep it from poking through the grommet was a bit of a pain but all worked out.
Removing this brace helps quite a bit.I did tape up this wire and the end of the factory grommet before taping up the wire loom.
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I kept the factory 7-pin harness intact, and plugged it onto the new socket. The other end where the new 7-way plug attaches, I left out the blue wire from the new USCAR wiring harness. The blue wire from that harness was connected to the new blue wire from the brake controller. If I need to use the factory ITBC, I can cut a few zip ties and reconnect to the OE socket.
For the controller, the single screw for the panel was more than adequate to keep the controller secure. I used 2 pieces of adhesive backed pad that is somewhat grippy on the other side. This will keep the controller from twisting and won't stick to the factory panel.
For the controller, the single screw for the panel was more than adequate to keep the controller secure. I used 2 pieces of adhesive backed pad that is somewhat grippy on the other side. This will keep the controller from twisting and won't stick to the factory panel.
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