2007 Tahoe Timing Chain Replacement

Geotrash said:

Yep - I think that was the right call. The almost looks more like residue than wear.

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Dustin Jackson said:

@OR VietVet Here is what I found while doing my AFM delete, I left them and installed my new cam on top of them.
View attachment 376058

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For many yrs, every Tuesday night I get together with a bunch of racing buddies. This group has at least 150 yrs experience of building engines. We were talking recently about cam bearings and how they always look bad but aren't. The consensus was " Let em ride".

Plimbob said:

Guys, a question regarding the balancer. I have read you can heat the balancer to improve install and conversely, you shouldn't heat it due to possible damage to the seal? It would seem if it was heated to 100 degrees or so it shouldn't hurt the seal?

Also, does it make a difference where the holes on the outside are positioned upon install?

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It's technically not a balancer. It's just a crank pulley. The LS engine is internally balanced and that pulley is balanced individually (the drilled divots). Two balanced items are gonna be balanced regardless of their relative positions to each other. This is why it isn't keyed. Think of two opposing tires on the drive axle of a truck: They're both balanced, but are always in different relative positions due to the differential action.

The pulley does have a layer of rubber between the main ring and the belt pulley part to absorb vibrations/harmonics. So, I guess it's known as a "harmonic balancer", because it balances out just that- harmonics. Not balance the crankshaft. Or maybe GM just kept the name since that's what we've always known them as.

I've never heated one, but I don't see 100° or even 150° being a problem. I'm sure it'd help some. But, I'd rather stick to the factory install specs and MEASURE THE RECESS from the edge of the pulley to the end of the crank snout. There is a spec and you want the pulley to be in that range.



Whatever became of your timing chain/sprocket alignment issue?

@iamdub - just a quick update on your question. I ended up using my old crank sprocket, bought a new GM chain and used the Cloyes cam sprocket. With that combination it all went back together. It was a real PIA.

Interestingly, the Cloyes rep told me it sounded like the machining was off on either the crank sprocket or the chain maybe both. He suggested I return the kit and re-order - that idea didn't thrill me much considering where I was on the process and the issues I was having with the Cloyes kit.

Anyway, it's up and running. I had a very interesting oil pressure issue and resolution which I will post under a new topic.

As always, thanks much for yours, Rocketman, Geotrash and others help during the process.

Plimbob said:

Update #4 - ground the tops off the claws on the 3 jaw 4 inch Harbor Freight puller so they were relatively flat. This allowed a little better grip. However, that sprocket does not want to come off, I heated it let it cool several times and no go. I was leary of putting to much pressure on it in fear of breaking a tooth off and the I would be in a pickle.

At this point, I am entertaining the thought of quit screwing around on it and leave it on. I inspected the teeth and there is no visible damage. I know that after 306k there has to be wear and leaving it on is not a wonderful idea all things considered but I need to get this !@#$ done and get it out of the garage.

Any thoughts on leaving it on?

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I opted to leave mine on too - running at 299,168k and it wasn’t worth it. Replaced water pump and hoses while I had everything torn down. Your experience mirrors mine! The f**king sensor wouldn’t come out, but the chain has jumped one sprocket anyways, so new timing set was necessary.