Fuel Pump Question

RAMurphy said:

Thank you for the quick replies. Rarely do I let the tank get below a 1/4 tank (grew up where it gets really cold). Old habit. Yep, figured I was most likely going to need to replace it before I'm left hanging out in the middle of no where. Still starts right up and no other symptoms but that is a lot of miles on that fuel pump. I will get underneath this weekend and see if the straps are all in good shape and judge the complexity of this job. If I can swap out an engine, I'm sure I can tackle this job. Just need to find a video. Again, thanks. Bob

Click to expand...

I wish you the best of luck. I had to change mines but it turned out to be a nitemare. Those ears that lock in the pump broke off due to rust and I ended up needing a new tank which was a headache to find. Took like a week and some 1000 bucks later. 2001 with 206k

Wow. Hoping for better results. My 2002 spent all if it's life in the southern states and was garaged when parked. Hopefully little corrosion issues. I did buy the locking ring along with pump just in case.

iamdub said:

The pump is in its own bucket that it fills when running, so it's always submerged regardless of the fuel level in the tank. Been this way for decades.

Another myth is letting it run low makes it suck up trash from the bottom of the tank. The pump pulls from the bottom of the tank at all times.


However, I would suggest, especially with an older/higher-mileage pump module, to keep it above ~1/8 tank. The level sensors commonly go bad and read the level inaccurately, making the gauge show more or less than what you actually have in the tank. If it sputters during a moderate acceleration and your gauge still shows to have enough fuel to not trigger the low fuel warning, then it's likely reading inaccurately and you actually are on fumes.

Click to expand...

The sump area that you are referring to is only so tall and if you look at the fuel pump placement in the module you will see that a tank(sump) can be ran low enough to still have well less than a gallon of fuel in the tank (sump) but not totally cover up the fuel pump. The fump does not lay horizontally in the bottom of the sump. You are right in that it is unlikely to suck up much "trash" because of the sock filter but even the sock filter will only stop a certain size of particles. Granted they screen on the sock is very fine.

You could be also referring to that odd looking black cozy that wraps around the pump itself? Ive never seen one of those that actually hold anything other than the pump and I believe those are just for getting rid of vibration so its a dampener.

Congrats on getting that much life out of an OEM pump. The OEM units are made by VDO / Continental and Bosch. Add the GM logo on those same parts raises the price another $1 - $200.

I suspect with that chopper pic on your avatar your truck has benefited from military spec maintenance schedule. The only other thing you’ll want to swap out while the tank is down is the charcoal evap canister. It’s filled with thousands of activated carbon pellets held in place by a mesh (aquarium filter) media.

When that goes, it’s like letting thousands of minions into your fuel system that clog every orifice in their path. Order and replace the carbon canister while your doing the pump or you’ll end up doing it 2x to pull and clean the tank and all the lines again.

You're absolutely right, 20+ years. Firm believer of "If you take care of her, she will take care of you". Not once have I been stranded on the side of the road. That being said, never thought of the charcoal evap canister. Might need to look at that R/R.

Ok so after some research, I decided it would be in my best interest to replace the canister. Just ordered it - thank you Michael.
Bob

I’m pretty sure GM is making some nice revenue on after parts with these 07-14 full size SUV. The interwebs show that some iteration of a Yukon, Burb, Tahoe or Escalade rank #1 in reliability in this generation.

petethepug said:

I’m pretty sure GM is making some nice revenue on after parts with these 07-14 full size SUV. The interwebs show that some iteration of a Yukon, Burb, Tahoe or Escalade rank #1 in reliability in this generation.

Click to expand...

I also hope they are making good money on the 2000-2006 SUVs so that we continue to have parts available.

Concur, I plan on keeping my baby for many more years. So far, haven't had any issues finding mechanical parts.

My OEM canister arrived today. Still planning on changing the filter this weekend but It might push due to family plans. Trying to get out of that requirement.

I JUST did this on my ‘ 03 Tahoe(284xxx, original eng/trans). Started after work at midnight, had it dropped, swapped and loaded back up by 2-2:30 with breaks involved.