VLOM Advice needed - semi urgent

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What stands out in my mind is to change the driverside valve cover to the new improved unit if it hasn't already been done? Its easy to do and takes about 1 hr.

If you have an 07-08? its GM pt# 12570427. I paid $117 online a couple 3+ yrs ago.

If you have an 09-11? its GM pt# 12642655

And a catch can.View attachment 373894

I'm curious, the 12570427 is what RA shows for my '04.

1656295295052.png

Is this a newer version of what came as OE on mine? Or is the change to the '07-'08 just using the earlier gen version?
 
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FasterBass

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You never told us what yr, make, model, engine, etc you drive ????

What stands out in my mind is to change the driverside valve cover to the new improved unit if it hasn't already been done? Its easy to do and takes about 1 hr.

If you have an 07-08? its GM pt# 12570427. I paid $117 online a couple 3+ yrs ago.

If you have an 09-11? its GM pt# 12642655

And a catch can.View attachment 373894
View attachment 373895
Oh yeah, did both. Used the same catch can too. 09 5.3 4x4 yukon 135k
 

iamdub

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Hi All,

Headed for our first road trip in the yukon tomorrow. Done a ton of prep for this incl:

Oil pan pickup tube o ring replaced
Afm disabled with black bear tune
Rear end oil changed
Transmission pan dropped, filter changed and fluid replaced.

Just on a whim I checked my front vlom bolts, one was tight the other just over finger tight.

Is it worth it to pull the intake tonight and retorque all the bolts? Im worried ill end up screwing something up by accident (like an electrical connection) and do more harm than good. Weve got about 200 mi to drive tomorrow. Oil pressure is good, no indication anything amiss.

What would you do??

I'd not worry about it on this trip, but plan to replace the gasket at my earliest convenience. Or, get the non-AFM valley pan (#12598832, I believe). It comes with a gasket and is only around $50-$60.

I wouldn't do it before the trip because the riskiest part is breaking a bunch of the injector wire harness clips. They hold pretty good and need a pick or tiny screwdriver to remove. They're also fragile from heat and age. That's eight chances of a possible misfire for your road trip. You can zip-tie the plug in place if you break the lock on it. But, I'd rather let sleeping dogs lie. Also, when you pull the intake manifold, pull the hose off the catch can instead of pulling the hose off that fitting at the top center. It's really fragile.
 
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FasterBass

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I'd not worry about it on this trip, but plan to replace the gasket at my earliest convenience. Or, get the non-AFM valley pan (#12598832, I believe). It comes with a gasket and is only around $50-$60.

I wouldn't do it before the trip because the riskiest part is breaking a bunch of the injector wire harness clips. They hold pretty good and need a pick or tiny screwdriver to remove. They're also fragile from heat and age. That's eight chances of a possible misfire for your road trip. You can zip-tie the plug in place if you break the lock on it. But, I'd rather let sleeping dogs lie. Also, when you pull the intake manifold, pull the hose off the catch can instead of pulling the hose off that fitting at the top center. It's really fragile.
This is the kind of stuff I am talking about. There is always that risk of self-inflicted problems that crop up when you try to tackle things proactively. And for those situations, i like to have no time pressure.
 
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FasterBass

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I'd not worry about it on this trip, but plan to replace the gasket at my earliest convenience. Or, get the non-AFM valley pan (#12598832, I believe). It comes with a gasket and is only around $50-$60.

I wouldn't do it before the trip because the riskiest part is breaking a bunch of the injector wire harness clips. They hold pretty good and need a pick or tiny screwdriver to remove. They're also fragile from heat and age. That's eight chances of a possible misfire for your road trip. You can zip-tie the plug in place if you break the lock on it. But, I'd rather let sleeping dogs lie. Also, when you pull the intake manifold, pull the hose off the catch can instead of pulling the hose off that fitting at the top center. It's really fragile.
Update! Arrived at our destination and ran like a top. 16mpg avg on the whole trip on straight e85.
 

89Suburban

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This is the kind of stuff I am talking about. There is always that risk of self-inflicted problems that crop up when you try to tackle things proactively. And for those situations, i like to have no time pressure.

My hurdle was finding the right gasket set for my VLOM. I went through HELL. Bought like 3 different kits that were all WRONG. Last kit I bought was right but required the rivets to be drilled out of the plate that hold the solenoids in place. BTW if you order the wrong gasket, many places refuse to return them as was in the case for ALL of mine.

I hard to break down and order the complete VLOM assembly. In hindsight I am glad I did. It ran so much better afterwards too. Also plan on replacing the steam pipe crossover gaskets, oil pressure switch and screen. Much easier to do those while it is apart.

My main hurdle besides my huge hands trying to fit in the tight spots as getting the fuel line on the rail to disconnect. My disconnect tools were useless and I wound up damaging the lock retainer thing that goes over the o-ring seal.

And there is tons of cleaning to do as well so have plenty of brake cleaner and rags. And a shop vac. There is foam padding under the intake vermin like to make a nest out of. Makes amess. I left the foam off of it when I reassembled.

I also bought a roll of that absorbent padding to lay out on the work bench. Works great for cleaning up the intake and beats trying to work in a drain pan and spilling shit all over the place.
 

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