Ground issue?

I'm not sure if this has been discussed here much but I'm curious how common this issue is on the K2 Tahoe/Yukon/Suburban trucks (seen a lot of Silverados with the issue on YouTube). I recently had been experiencing slower "ruhr-ruhr-ruhr" type start-ups, then some days my radio would randomly forget what time it was, then I started getting the "Action Requested: Put windows up and down" message. It came to a head when the damn truck just SHUT OFF while I was driving down the road (that was fun). Given the totality of the circumstances, I assumed my battery was bad, so I changed it and it didn't solve the problems mentioned above (turns out my old battery was fine).

Did some research and found out that there is a semi-well documented issue with ground wires that run from the battery negative post to the frame behind the passenger front tire and the engine block (it's a split ground wire), as well as documented issues with a couple ground posts on the interior of the truck under the dash.

I have yet to dig into it because I ran out of time, but I can assume that my truck having spent it's entire six year life in the salt belt of the northeast, has an issue with the exposed ground on the frame. I'll post my results when I figure it out.

I am mainly curious how many K2 owners here have had to deal with this. I am also hearing that the cable may need to be replaced, and GM has two part numbers listed. Any insight would be great!

Prospect62 said:

I'm not sure if this has been discussed here much but I'm curious how common this issue is on the K2 Tahoe/Yukon/Suburban trucks (seen a lot of Silverados with the issue on YouTube). I recently had been experiencing slower "ruhr-ruhr-ruhr" type start-ups, then some days my radio would randomly forget what time it was, then I started getting the "Action Requested: Put windows up and down" message. It came to a head when the damn truck just SHUT OFF while I was driving down the road (that was fun). Given the totality of the circumstances, I assumed my battery was bad, so I changed it and it didn't solve the problems mentioned above (turns out my old battery was fine).

Did some research and found out that there is a semi-well documented issue with ground wires that run from the battery negative post to the frame behind the passenger front tire and the engine block (it's a split ground wire), as well as documented issues with a couple ground posts on the interior of the truck under the dash.

I have yet to dig into it because I ran out of time, but I can assume that my truck having spent it's entire six year life in the salt belt of the northeast, has an issue with the exposed ground on the frame. I'll post my results when I figure it out.

I am mainly curious how many K2 owners here have had to deal with this. I am also hearing that the cable may need to be replaced, and GM has two part numbers listed. Any insight would be great!

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Been having slow starts for years. Had the GMC dealer check it out in Florida and another Chevrolet dealer in New Jersey [both 5 star dealers] also check it out. They both came up with no issues found.

Just last week the battery sounded extremely low as I thought it going to die right there. Had it checked it out at Napa and they said the battery [barely 3 years old] was not up to speed. They put a new AC Delco in it [battery does not last more then 3 years on these vehicles as you know] and it started quickly. But after a few days the slow starting started again as I expected.

OnStar sent me an alert [a few years ago] that it needed a starter but when the dealer checked it out they said there was no issue with the starter.

Might be ground issues. Have not had the messages you got but one time [awhile back] the clock and radio went berserk. The rear a/c and rear defroster sometimes come on by themselves but not sure if any of that is related. That has been going on for years. Just happened again this week. I leave the front a/c constantly on.

A friend lives in the backwoods in Georgia where moonshine is made. I always get a bit nervous back there wondering if my Hoe will start.

I have noticed walking threw parking lots and rest areas that A LOT lot of 2015-2020 Tahoe-Suburban-Yukon have the slow start the same as we do.

A very simple test is a voltage drop between battery negative post and frame ground, and then test negative post to alternator case. I have seen resistance double and triple what it should be. Replacing or adding additional ground cables is very simple.

Well a couple days ago, despite the fact that the truck had been behaving normally since the battery replacement, I got under it and took the ground wire off where it's bolted to the passenger front of the frame right behind the right front tire. Numerous YouTube videos suggest this as "the problem".

Took the ground off, wire wheeled the frame and the eyelet end of the wire down to clear bare metal and reattached nice and snug.

Truck started up normally and all seemed good.

Last night at my son's football practice, I was sitting in the truck with the FM radio going on "reserve" (key in accessory position) power. After 15 mins I got a message "start vehicle - battery low". Mind you this battery is a week old and tested good more than a few times. I started her up (started normally). Radio presets were gone but eventually re-populated on their own. Clock was at midnight. Numerous start up messages such as "You are driver 1 profile" and such, all leading me to believe that power to the truck was completely lost at some point. Since that occurrence, the truck "zeros' out" every morning at start up - but here's the kicker, it starts up fine. Nice fast starter, no reason to believe the battery is weak.

I guess I'll try a new battery negative cable and/or an aux ground. I've seen a guy on YT run an aux ground from the negative post to the brace above the battery.

Really interesting and annoying. I refuse to blame the battery - it's gotta be a ground or maybe a positive cable issue, or a computer issue but dear God I hope not.

Rygrego said:

A very simple test is a voltage drop between battery negative post and frame ground, and then test negative post to alternator case. I have seen resistance double and triple what it should be. Replacing or adding additional ground cables is very simple.

Click to expand...

How do you do a voltage drop test?

This should make it easy: