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Snowbum

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Ok so I did the fuel filter then plugs and wires. Still not firing on all cylinders, pressure test on the fuel was fine. Been smelling gas so started to think the injectors ( well one #4 cylinder ) must be failing. Here is the question, where can I find a new one for a 2000 5.7 ? I don’t want a used one
Bloody knuckles a grease
Thanks again
 
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Snowbum

Snowbum

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Thank you.
Sorry everyone I’m not on here more. Busy working on boat,RV, and the Yukon. So much to do and so little time
 

exp500

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If fuel pressure good(60+ all conditions), fuel trims low, passes leakdown, passes spark test at dist and coil,and no codes, only then look at injectors. And while you are there change lower intake gaskets. Only adds 45 minutes. Good luck!
 
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Snowbum

Snowbum

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so whet to the auto parts store today . I was about to drop some big money and lone behold a friend pulls into the parking lot. This is a vudoo mechanic guy, so he does his thing and it was in need of a distributor cap and rotor ( yes I had cleaned them, but no good ) he said I’m going to have to do the distributor it’s self soon, but it’s running like a champ again
Thanks for all the help everyone
 

exp500

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Buy an inline spark tester. And an extra cap and rotor. Delco/Delphi/GM/United DCR-820X only.
Coil, CK sensor, ICM - Delco/ Delphi/ GM only. Wires Packard/Delco/GM. Plugs NGK or Delco.
Fix any IGN miss immediately or it is change all.
Glad it's better!
 

rockola1971

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so whet to the auto parts store today . I was about to drop some big money and lone behold a friend pulls into the parking lot. This is a vudoo mechanic guy, so he does his thing and it was in need of a distributor cap and rotor ( yes I had cleaned them, but no good ) he said I’m going to have to do the distributor it’s self soon, but it’s running like a champ again
Thanks for all the help everyone
I had a 99 sierra with a 5.7L and that damn engine had to have a cap and rotor every year! Didnt matter what brand I used, even AC Delco. When it was time to replace the truck would die at stop lights and in turns and get progressively harder to start until it wouldnt start. I carried a new pair with me at all times. And if the distributor is pulled you can NOT just stick it back in and time it. The timing advance is controlled electornically and there is a wire plug near the master cylinder that you have to disconnect when setting up a new distributor. (This zeroes out) You have to have a scanner on it and look at counts as you move the distributor, wait for it to update and they have to be within like +/- 5 IIRC or right on 0 and the only way to see the counts is with a scantool. (possibly a bidirectional). The one I used at the time was a snapon bidirectional. It aint like the the old school 350's where you just put a timing light on it and adjust the distributor and lock it down when you have the correct BTDC at the Harmonic Balancer.
 
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