First GM truck, 2013 Tahoe PPV

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Caddylack

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Hey folks!

I am new to Tahoes, but not new to GM or to forums. I use the same name on the Impala SS forum. I've had 7 B/D-bodies, and a 5.3 Trailblazer.

I have been in need of hauling capacity for some time now, and it might as well be an LS-powered SUV. When I came across this Tahoe, I knew it was the one. It just felt right.

It's a 2013 PPV, black exterior, fully caged rear (highway patrol K9?), 108k miles on the odometer. RWD and 6L80E, of course. It was owned by one department in Arizona until retirement at the end of 2021. I live in northern Illinois, and am now the second registered owner.

IMG_20220508_115926367.jpg
IMG_20220508_120020767.jpg

Cosmetically, there are plenty of issues like you would expect from a police car. There are a few dings in the body, a few holes in the interior, and it smells funny. It has been freshly repainted, and we know how government paint jobs go (pretty much yes/no, pass/fail).

Sacrificing on those things got me a few things that I consider more important. For one, there is ZERO rust on this thing. It's mechanically solid, and I think I got a good deal on it. Obviously the RWD makes it less desirable to some buyers in this area, and the caged rear makes it less desirable to anyone looking to haul kids, etc. I paid $13,250 before tax, title, and plates.

The first orders of business were removing the spotlight and replacing the wheels. It's not that I mind them myself, it's just that I can't stand the constant attention.

IMG_20220512_160514511.jpg


I really like the police seats, console, and rubber floors, so those will stay. The rear portion of the vehicle will stay mostly the same, although I am already eyeballing the molded plastic second row for some sort of audio adventure. It looks like a sub box, or at least something to mount speakers in.

Speaking of audio, I am currently wasting a bunch of time fiddling with lousy OEM equipment. I pulled a "premium" radio from a 2012 Malibu LTZ, which looks basically the same as the radio in the Tahoe, except with a USB port in addition to the aux port. It also has bluetooth, and it's silver in color, which matches the PPV interior trim. The harness connectors are the same, but I figured out pretty quickly that they are pinned very differently. I'm re-pinning my OEM harness so it connects properly to the Malibu head unit, and I've got three wires left in the Tahoe OEM stereo harness that I haven't identified. I think at least one or two of them have to be for the chime stuff, but I have no idea which is which. I'm left with a dark green wire, a yellow wire, and a white wire. The Malibu has two dark green wires for GMLAN, and that's pretty much where I'm at now.

IMG_20220514_133107775.jpg

I've got a bunch of speakers and subs to use up, and I grabbed a couple of OEM amps from the junkyard. I'm just patching together a cheap system. BTW, if anyone happens to be knowledgeable on the various OEM Pioneer subs that were offered in late-model GM vehicles, I would appreciate some guidance. Over a period of months, in three separate incidents, I have pulled two subs and an OEM enclosure from different vehicles that I mistakenly thought were all "the same".

Additionally, independent of the Malibu stuff, I've also been doing some ghetto experimentation with the chime setup in our cars. It seems to me that you can actually leave the case from your factory radio in the dash, with the "board" still intact. With no face plate or disc drive, there is plenty of space to mount an aftermarket head unit directly inside the factory radio case with a standard mounting kit. And, if I'm being honest, I don't see how it's any more ghetto than the goofy chime retention module that seems to be the only alternative. Why not just skip it? If I run into any kind of roadblock with running the chime through the Malibu head unit, I will probably just remove the board from the factory case and mount it remotely inside the dash or console and then forget about it.

IMG_20220516_154816954.jpg

More nonsense to come!

Matt
 
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iamdub

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Hey folks!

I am new to Tahoes, but not new to GM or to forums. I use the same name on the Impala SS forum. I've had 7 B/D-bodies, and a 5.3 Trailblazer.

I have been in need of hauling capacity for some time now, and it might as well be an LS-powered SUV. When I came across this Tahoe, I knew it was the one. It just felt right.

It's a 2013 PPV, black exterior, fully caged rear (highway patrol K9?), 108k miles on the odometer. RWD and 6L80E, of course. It was owned by one department in Arizona until retirement at the end of 2021. I live in northern Illinois, and am now the second registered owner.

Cosmetically, there are plenty of issues like you would expect from a police car. There are a few dings in the body, a few holes in the interior, and it smells funny. It has been freshly repainted, and we know how government paint jobs go (pretty much yes/no, pass/fail).

Sacrificing on those things got me a few things that I consider more important. For one, there is ZERO rust on this thing. It's mechanically solid, and I think I got a good deal on it. Obviously the RWD makes it less desirable to some buyers in this area, and the caged rear makes it less desirable to anyone looking to haul kids, etc. I paid $13,250 before tax, title, and plates.

The first orders of business were removing the spotlight and replacing the wheels. It's not that I mind them myself, it's just that I can't stand the constant attention. I really like the police seats, console, and rubber floors, so those will stay. The rear portion of the vehicle will stay mostly the same, although I am already eyeballing the molded plastic second row for some sort of audio adventure. It looks like a sub box, or at least something to mount speakers in.

Speaking of audio, I am currently wasting a bunch of time fiddling with lousy OEM equipment. I pulled a "premium" radio from a 2012 Malibu LTZ, which looks basically the same as the radio in the Tahoe, except with a USB port in addition to the aux port. It also has bluetooth, and it's silver in color, which matches the PPV interior trim. The harness connectors are the same, but I figured out pretty quickly that they are pinned very differently. I'm re-pinning my OEM harness so it connects properly to the Malibu head unit, and I've got three wires left in the Tahoe OEM stereo harness that I haven't identified. I think at least one or two of them have to be for the chime stuff, but I have no idea which is which. I'm left with a dark green wire, a yellow wire, and a white wire. The Malibu has two dark green wires for GMLAN, and that's pretty much where I'm at now.

I've got a bunch of speakers and subs to use up, and I grabbed a couple of OEM amps from the junkyard. I'm just patching together a cheap system. BTW, if anyone happens to be knowledgeable on the various OEM Pioneer subs that were offered in late-model GM vehicles, I would appreciate some guidance. Over a period of months, in three separate incidents, I have pulled two subs and an OEM enclosure from different vehicles that I mistakenly thought were all "the same".

Additionally, independent of the Malibu stuff, I've also been doing some ghetto experimentation with the chime setup in our cars. It seems to me that you can actually leave the case from your factory radio in the dash, with the "board" still intact. With no face plate or disc drive, there is plenty of space to mount an aftermarket head unit directly inside the factory radio case with a standard mounting kit. And, if I'm being honest, I don't see how it's any more ghetto than the goofy chime retention module that seems to be the only alternative. Why not just skip it? If I run into any kind of roadblock with running the chime through the Malibu head unit, I will probably just remove the board from the factory case and mount it remotely inside the dash or console and then forget about it.

More nonsense to come!

Matt

Welcome! I don't have anything helpful to contribute on this particular subject, but I'm liking your nonsense so far! All I can say with the wiring is trace one (on schematics) and test it for continuity at the other end and see what it's plugged in to.

Start a build thread so you can keep your progress organized. Don't be slackin' on the pics!
 

Miami-Dade

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Welcome from Miami Beach!

I would have kept the wheels and the spotlight on it. I was actually thinking of putting those wheels on my LT.

Hopefully you have some service records but seems it was very well maintained. Nice find!
 
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Caddylack

Caddylack

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Welcome from Miami Beach!

I would have kept the wheels and the spotlight on it. I was actually thinking of putting those wheels on my LT.

Hopefully you have some service records but seems it was very well maintained. Nice find!
The wheels are for sale right now. I'm only asking $400 without tires, including all 24 police lug nuts. I once put 4 police wheels in a box and FedEx'd them for like $150 or so.

I do have the complete CarFax, and many parts have already been replaced. Most notably, you can tell just by looking that the entire brake booster/MC setup is brand new. I've never driven a car with such good brakes. I plan to contact the department that owned the car to see if they can pass me off some records. One of my friends had luck doing that with his Caprice PPV.

I bet you guys have plenty of rust-free trucks in Miami!

I read that there is an "upfitter's" box/panel near the brake pedal where I can find switched 12v power, RAP, etc. Is this so? I will get on making a build thread.

I forgot to mention that this Tahoe will eventually get mildly built, but for now it needs to just serve as a reliable daily while I finish my other 4 projects... I'm sure many of you know how it goes.
 
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Caddylack

Caddylack

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Where do build threads go? I can't seem to find it after a quick scan of the main forum listing.
 

iamdub

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BG1988

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The wheels are for sale right now. I'm only asking $400 without tires, including all 24 police lug nuts. I once put 4 police wheels in a box and FedEx'd them for like $150 or so.

I do have the complete CarFax, and many parts have already been replaced. Most notably, you can tell just by looking that the entire brake booster/MC setup is brand new. I've never driven a car with such good brakes. I plan to contact the department that owned the car to see if they can pass me off some records. One of my friends had luck doing that with his Caprice PPV.

I bet you guys have plenty of rust-free trucks in Miami!

I read that there is an "upfitter's" box/panel near the brake pedal where I can find switched 12v power, RAP, etc. Is this so? I will get on making a build thread.

I forgot to mention that this Tahoe will eventually get mildly built, but for now it needs to just serve as a reliable daily while I finish my other 4 projects... I'm sure many of you know how it goes.
not with all the salt in the air
 

Joseph Garcia

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Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Nice find.
 
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Caddylack

Caddylack

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I think I figured out the last 3 wires, finally. I found the GM guide for the Tahoe PPV electrical system, and it's mind-blowing. I had no idea that this giant bundle of coiled wires sitting on the floor is 100% factory. There are a bunch of random wires for random things just ready to go. Yellow is hot in acc, run, and RAP. Yellow/black is hot in run with vehicle in park, etc.

Here's something kinda weird... I have been reading that the 07-13 trucks don't have a switched 12v wire for the stereo, and people go to all these lengths to run a wire to the engine bay and stuff. Well, I'm pretty sure the #6 white wire in the 14-pin connector is "entertainment remote turn on signal". We will find out, as I figure I am going to connect that to the slot for switched 12v on the Malibu radio.

Yellow is the dimmer wire, which I suppose the Malibu does not use.

Green is for GMLAN, and I am relieved to find that it apparently doesn't matter that the Tahoe has 1 wire and the Malibu has 2, as the system works fine as long as all the green GMLAN wires are connected together.

Off I go.
 

iamdub

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I think I figured out the last 3 wires, finally. I found the GM guide for the Tahoe PPV electrical system, and it's mind-blowing. I had no idea that this giant bundle of coiled wires sitting on the floor is 100% factory. There are a bunch of random wires for random things just ready to go. Yellow is hot in acc, run, and RAP. Yellow/black is hot in run with vehicle in park, etc.

Being a PPV and not having a lot of the common options, they probably just use the normal/commonly-optioned harness and leave the wires unterminated for upfitter use.


Here's something kinda weird... I have been reading that the 07-13 trucks don't have a switched 12v wire for the stereo, and people go to all these lengths to run a wire to the engine bay and stuff. Well, I'm pretty sure the #6 white wire in the 14-pin connector is "entertainment remote turn on signal". We will find out, as I figure I am going to connect that to the slot for switched 12v on the Malibu radio.

What 14-pin connector? Yes, the radio is turned on by a data signal that commands it to turn on and draw power from the constant 12V source. As you mentioned in a previous post, there are RAP, switched, constant and ground taps in that box above the brake pedal. I'm too old and fat to dig in there, so I tapped a switched 12V in the panel on the righthand side of the dash for my radar detector.


Yellow is the dimmer wire, which I suppose the Malibu does not use.

Green is for GMLAN, and I am relieved to find that it apparently doesn't matter that the Tahoe has 1 wire and the Malibu has 2, as the system works fine as long as all the green GMLAN wires are connected together.

Off I go.

It's funny how similar these color codes are to the standard aftermarket color codes. Even the data wire being green. One thing I learned about the CAN bus system is that the data just streams so all these different modules can be connected to the same "main highway" and the processing end interprets those signals and talks back to the modules, simultaneously, through that same highway. It's to reduce the number of circuits/wires. Vehicles were getting so complex with features that something had to be done to reduce the amount of wiring. Instead of each device having its own independent "phone line", they all just share a line(s).

It clicked for me when I was trying to figure out my steering wheel controller when connecting an aftermarket HU. The green wire just needed to be tapped into 'a' data wire. I just picked one and hoped for the best. SWC works perfectly.
 

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