2016 Yukon Denali (Standard) with ABS Sensor Hub Issues

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Chipmunk

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And....while I wait for my next appointment for the transmission/transfer case noise, my Yukon threw a P0308 Code. Replacing plugs and plug wires. It was beginning to miss but hard to tell if something in the drivetrain was slipping or not. This should fix the miss in cylinder 8 and keep others from failing as long as there's nothing hidden that's an issue. I usually replace plugs and wires after every 100K. I'm at 127K so it's time.

Still unsure about the stupid noise and lose of power.
 
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UPDATE: (Sorry for long thread in advance) Got vehicle back after 2 days and it ran great for a couple days. No noise. I got the same noise around the third day but it was just a blip. Ran another 300+ miles great. Smooth shifts, etc. After another 300 miles I get the noise again and I feel that it's either missing or have another bad spark plug. Only does it under light loads. Heavy loads it is still smooth shifts with no misses. Another couple hundred miles and it does it's noise again. When the noise/grinding comes it is always under light load during downshifts; particularly going down hills. Yesterday and a couple days before it starts with the grinding noises; both times going down hills and both times around 85-95 MPH. It always kicks into gear after it drops in speed. Day after it did this I got noise 8 times in 13 miles of city driving; no more than 30-40 MPH. When it did the noise (acts like it jumps into neutral and then catches the proper gear) yesterday I had gone into passing gear (not floored) to get out of the way of someone going faster and I let off at 95 MPH. Here comes the noise and tach drop to 900 RPM. Speed drops to 68 and it goes into gear with a jolt. Tach jumps to 5,000 RPM and I get a traction control light and check engine light. The same P0308 I got last time. Cleaned cylinder 8 Ignition Coil with no change. Hoping it's the coil. Each spark plug has one....just like my wife's old Toyota Camry V6 that went through 5 of those coils before we sold it. Back in shop with a free loaner. This is getting ridiculous!!!! Wish we could get rid of these stupid computers that run these cars so we can work on them properly again.

Any ideas? I still think this has something to do with transmission and/or the Powertrain Module. The Power Train Module is what is sensing the miss. (According to online docs) They've re-built the transfer case (twice) and replaced the Transfer Case Module. Always runs OK for a short period and then back to this crap again................
 

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Day after it did this I got noise 8 times in 13 miles of city driving; no more than 30-40 MPH. When it did the noise (act
Bummer to hear about this ongoing gremlin of an issue.

If you've had the torque converter required replacement then the transmission required a rebuild. When the torque converter fails it causes debris throughout the transmission.

Aside from the above. If the ABS light is triggered and you're hearing ABS like noise, I'd speculate a possible hub assembly issue or corresponding sensor. Wouldn't hurt disconnect and re-connect each abs sensor and then take an allen key and remove each sensor from the hubs 1 at a time and rotate the hub by hand and use a flashlight to see if there's some grime spinning around inside the abs encoder.

Additionally if you take it in for diagnostics, I'd bring it to a dedicated transmission shop and explain problem and see if you can be present when they test drive to further explain (first-hand). They can scan tool the ABS system while rotating each wheel, drive-train and get a history of transmission codes for clues.
 
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Bummer to hear about this ongoing gremlin of an issue.

If you've had the torque converter required replacement then the transmission required a rebuild. When the torque converter fails it causes debris throughout the transmission.

Aside from the above. If the ABS light is triggered and you're hearing ABS like noise, I'd speculate a possible hub assembly issue or corresponding sensor. Wouldn't hurt disconnect and re-connect each abs sensor and then take an allen key and remove each sensor from the hubs 1 at a time and rotate the hub by hand and use a flashlight to see if there's some grime spinning around inside the abs encoder.

Additionally if you take it in for diagnostics, I'd bring it to a dedicated transmission shop and explain problem and see if you can be present when they test drive to further explain (first-hand). They can scan tool the ABS system while rotating each wheel, drive-train and get a history of transmission codes for clues.
Thanks for the input! The noise initially sounded like an ABS when you hit brakes hard. No codes for this or for transmission. Only code/codes I have gotten lately is P0308. First time the plugs and wires were replaced and all was well. No noise for a few hundred miles. Latest code is also P0308. Initial code when noise began (can't recall; papers in vehicle and vehicle in shop) which was a couple hundred miles after second torque converter was replaced was for eoither low battery; re-program ECM and/or replace ECM. (No transmission rebuild, of course) Vehicle went into reduced power mode at that time. I was driving semi-aggresive on curvy mountain roads when it acted like it bounced into neutral. No power until it went into reduced power mode. Flooring it I could maybe get to 50-55 MPH. I was 7 miles away from nowhere when this happened...no cell service, nowhere to pull over... Once I stopped (after travelin along in low power mode) and let it sit for 10-15 minutes it went back to normal power; engine light still on. After driving for 3-4 miles I stopped briefly for 5-10 minutes. Started up and engine light was off but took to dealer and they reprogrammed ECM. Ran OK for another 2-300 miles and then the noise began. And that's where we are now. I think something broke. It comes and goes but sometimes when it comes it gets more frequent. Sometimes right out of garage and other times it takes about 100 milers of constant driving before it begins. Other times I can drive 300+ miles with no issues. Makes absolutely no sense and I know it is difficult to diagnose. I have videos out the ying-yang of the noise....

As of today, Dealer is trying to get GM Regional in Atlanta involved but from my past experience 30 years ago on an S-10 Blazer engine issue I don't have much confidence in them helping. I do have to say that the dealer has been good to me; but.............they don't know what to do. I've thought about taking it to a local transmission shop but don't really want to do that yet...although......

I don't think there's an ABS issue but I am still on original pads. Rear pads and rotors look OK and front rotors OK. Front pads are down 75%. (estimated) I plan to upgrade front pads and rotors to something similar to Power Stop Evolution pads, calipers and larger rotors. Need to get this initial issue resolved before I do anything else. Really don't want to get rid of it since I am now semi-retired and don't have the income I used to. Sometimes I think I should have bought the Durango RT or SRT; or, the Explorer Platinum....but we are where we are!
 

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You betchya.

Did the P0308 occur simultaneous to when the issue started? Triggering plug #8 misfire, which is a pain to replace. I wasn't able to properly torque it on mine and went by feel. If the coil, plug, and wire were replaced for that and it's still an issue; I'd pull the intake manifold and check for a possible leak... hopefully not a collapsed lifter. Dealer should at least check compression on that. Worth removing intake manifold either way and cleaning everything up including the throttle body. Not sure your level of comfort, wrenching on things yourself but definitely keep us updated with what the dealer figures out or does to try and remedy. If in fact the torque converter went then the trans should be re-built(.) Does any of your paperwork mention whether they put the mobile 1 124715 Synthetic LV ATF HP in accordance with service bulletin 18-NA-355 for the 8L90?
 
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The P0308 started after the noise began. The first time they (dealer) confirmed the #8 plug was bad. Went ahead and replaced all 8 plugs and all new plug wires. The coils were not replaced. I took the #8 coil out after the second P0308 and cleaned it with WD-40. I never cleared the code (check engine light went off and came back on afterwards) No change. The noise issue got worse with the plug issue; just not consistent. I'm thinking/hoping it's the coil. I do some wrench work but when the issues continue or become more complicated I take it to dealer. In my case I have found that the dealers will either fix it the first time or at least follow-up until issues are resolved. In the past I have taken vehicles to reputable repair shops but when it's something like this they are usually clueless.

I bought this vehicle used with 21K on it. At 40K I got the first shudder episode and they put in the synthetic fluid as well as the new/revised gaskets. Was fine for about 35-40K more. That time they replaced converter. Paperwork just states new fluids, etc. At 123K the converter was replaced again. I'm pretty sure they used the correct fluids based on discussions with shop employees. Paperwork again just states fluid replaced. I keep all big ticket repair tickets in my glove box (warranty & non-warranty) and vehicle is in shop now. I'll be able to respond better once I have them in hand to review.

I was thinking a few weeks back before all this began that this truck has been relatively repair free except of course for the converters. I can live with occasional hard up and downshifts from 1st to 2nd and back down. Basing this on my last SUV which was a 2008 Trailblazer SS that was engine and transmission trouble free up till when I sold it at 299K. I added a Borla Cat-back exhaust and K&N Intake system to it. That was it. I did have issues when new initially with the rear axle hub which had a TSB out to replace it. At 165K the front axle hub went not too long after I did something stupid off road. Replaced with a Jasper rebuilt one with 100K mile warranty. I was expecting this Yukon to perform just as well if not better.

Thanks for the input. I should know more in a day or two. In the meantime I am driving a free loaner which feels like I'm driving in a sardine can with wheels.
 
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UPDATE: Third week vehicle has been in shop with techs trying to find and resolve the issue. As previously noted above; the Transfer case has been rebuilt twice. The transmission is now torn down with parts ordered. The item they thought was causing the issue was the Parking Paw/Gear. It turned out to be OK. Will confirm the parts on order on the 3rd. At least the told me (they hope) it should be ready to pick-up on the 6th. Seems the service manager (who is also a tech) and the Transmission Tech differed on where the problem was located. Service Manager thought it was the transfer case'; Tech said transmission. Appears to not be the Transfer Case.....so; I guess I'll know soon enough. This is such a weird problem.
 
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After 19 days in the shop and a partial transmission rebuild I got my vehicle back. Ran great for 90 miles then the noise came back. Still runs good but that noise is a concern. Contmplating what to do. I haven't been charged a dime from dealer so I guess I've gotten what I've paid for?!
 

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Dang... P0308 taken care of at least? If you can get an updated audio or video capture of the noise, I'd be willing to take a look-listen. Glad to hear it's running good.
 
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I have a short video of the noise from last Febrfuary but can't get it to load on this site. Something about the format? I'll try to load again.

I drove another 75 miles today and the noise came again as I was slowing down on exit ramp less than 3 miles from home. Other than that it runs OK. Been babying it since I got it back Tuesday.
 

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