Looks like has been submerged in salt brine for quite a while.
How do you replace lower ball joint?
- Thread starter JamesLond
- Start date
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swathdiver
Full Access Member
Those RK Series don't last. The CK Series and ACDelco Professional are literally the same items. Sometimes one is less expensive than the other but it is still the same part. Those ACDelco ones also have a GM specific part number too and they as well could cost less or more depending on the vendor and market. Doing your homework can save you a bunch.That was exactly my question! I was looking at a full front end rebuild, but life concerns got in the way and funds had to be redirected.
MassHoe04
Full Access Member
Just 18 salty New England winters...
I got it in October and have signed up for the unlimited car washes.
That coating of salt was just a month's accumulation before I got the car wash pass.
I'll be crawling around this summer to at least get some Rust-o-leum or P.O.R. on there.
Control arms will get changed out before winter this year.
tRidiot
Full Access Member
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- Dec 21, 2011
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I don't know how you find out this information - I mean it's not like AC Delco tells you that Moog is a manufacturer supplying the parts to them, is it? I dunno. It is good to know, though, that if I do go with Moog (which I was seriously considering before), the CK is indeed good enough to last. If I spend a bunch of money on my front end and s**t starts going bad again in 10k miles, I'll be driving this truck into a lake and walking away...
I'm looking at just getting the Moog K6541 ball joint since the LCA bushings seem fine to me. The ball joint looks different from the OEM ones, but I guess it's OK since nobody has really complained about them in reviews.
Nobody has tried to replace just the boots on the OEM ones have they? I'd hate to go through all this replacement when the only real issue is the boot.
I found one guy doing a lower ball joint replacement in a video and though it's for a Suburban, I think everything is similar to my car. I notice he left out the CV axle removal however....
Nobody has tried to replace just the boots on the OEM ones have they? I'd hate to go through all this replacement when the only real issue is the boot.
I found one guy doing a lower ball joint replacement in a video and though it's for a Suburban, I think everything is similar to my car. I notice he left out the CV axle removal however....
The K6541 is good; it's in the MOOG Problem Solver line. Here's what mine looks like after a few years. Don't mind the random road grime.
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I believe you can get just the boot at an auto parts store in their "HELP" line or the equivalent.
rockola1971
Full Access Member
I have a harbor freight ball joint kit to press out and in them. As far the control arm bushings, I learned a trick from a friend that works on semis for a living. He just torches the bushings and lets them burn and they fall right out. Wire brush the melted rubber and I use a harbor freight 12 ton press that I already have (For building AK47's and AK74's) to press the new ones in. If you are in salt country plan on buying replacement camber adjustment bolts! I had to torch the ones off my Denali because they were so froze up.
Honestly it makes no sense when a front end is worn out to not replace EVERYTHING at the same time. All bushings, tie rods, pitman and idler arm, ball joints and maybe even shocks. Get it all done and pay for one alignment.
Honestly it makes no sense when a front end is worn out to not replace EVERYTHING at the same time. All bushings, tie rods, pitman and idler arm, ball joints and maybe even shocks. Get it all done and pay for one alignment.
This.
wjburken
Supporting Member
Why? In my opinion, putting a new boot on is like putting a bandaid on a dirty wound.
