Quoted hours for an oil pan gasket replacement?

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ratled

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Just wondering the time it takes to put in a new oil pan gasket on 02, 5.3 with 4wd. Trying to see if its worth it to take in and have it done.

Thanks
ratled
 

Mudsport96

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View attachment 360861

while in there, I'd do the pickup tube o-ring as a prophylactic measure. Adds no appreciable labor time (book time is listed 3.5hrs as well)
I'd also do your oil cooler bypass plate gasket because why not.
Yes do the bypass gasket. That was what was actually LEAKING on mine. I had to remove the pan to do the pickup oring
 

SnowDrifter

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Yes do the bypass gasket. That was what was actually LEAKING on mine. I had to remove the pan to do the pickup oring
Oh and while it's on my mind:

If you have an oil cooler - get the gasket with 2 holes in the center. If you have the bypass - get the one with the big oval.

There are 2 types: metal crush gasket like you'd find on a drain plug, and o-ring type. I'm using the metal crush gasket on mine without issue, FWIW. But if you don't have access to a torque wrench, the o-ring type is going to be a bit more forgiving to torque spec. Clean the surfaces, dab of oil for lubrication on the mating surfaces, and snug 'er up. Can pull torque specs for the job if needed.

Oh, and for the pan: it's a but fiddly to put back on. You'll want a dot of RTV on the 4 corners where the front / back plates mate up to the block (seam). And putting it on is a bit of walking back and forth between the bell housing bolts and pan-to-block bolts. It has some taper fit indents on there on the bell housing to get it all aligned (that'll make sense when you have it apart) - just alterante between all the bolts until it's all seated, that way nothings torqued over in some weird way.

I can pull the full procedure and various torque specs if you need
 

adventurenali92

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I had my oil pan gasket and the bypass plate gasket done. On the 4WD and AWD rigs it’s a little longer of a job as I was told the front diff has to be dropped out of the way to get the pan out.
 
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ratled

ratled

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Oh and while it's on my mind:

If you have an oil cooler - get the gasket with 2 holes in the center. If you have the bypass - get the one with the big oval.

There are 2 types: metal crush gasket like you'd find on a drain plug, and o-ring type. I'm using the metal crush gasket on mine without issue, FWIW. But if you don't have access to a torque wrench, the o-ring type is going to be a bit more forgiving to torque spec. Clean the surfaces, dab of oil for lubrication on the mating surfaces, and snug 'er up. Can pull torque specs for the job if needed.

Oh, and for the pan: it's a but fiddly to put back on. You'll want a dot of RTV on the 4 corners where the front / back plates mate up to the block (seam). And putting it on is a bit of walking back and forth between the bell housing bolts and pan-to-block bolts. It has some taper fit indents on there on the bell housing to get it all aligned (that'll make sense when you have it apart) - just alterante between all the bolts until it's all seated, that way nothings torqued over in some weird way.

I can pull the full procedure and various torque specs if you need
Thanks for all the info SD. With that, I have decided to have it done. I'm too broke these days to be laying on my back for this. I 'll have them do the bypass and the ring while they are at it

Thanks for all the help!
ratled
 

SnowBuck

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I had it done...drove it in, said I'd pick it up the next morning! They had to drop the front diff (I wouldn't be prepared to do in the driveway). And the gasket is riveted in!!! Yes, replace the O-ring. They also cleaned the intake screen (was 80% sludged up). That was the cause of low oil pressure.
 

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