What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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alpha_omega

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Installed a new coolant expansion tank. Took about 2 hours from the time I posted about it in the "Engine & Drivetrain" sub-forum to completion. Luckily, as the internet told me, this is a common failure, so AutoZone had plenty to sell me. Honestly one of the easier fixes I've done in the snow on a 31 degree day.
Did you notice how loose the tank sits in the “housing slots” on the fenderwall, or was that one a better fit than OEM?
I think I ended up wrapping mine in some foam (the kind used for water lines) just to keep it from rattling around so much.
Of course it has to happen when the weather is crap. Glad it all went smoothly for you.
As I'm planning my next adventure of "while I'm in there"
I'm going to replace my transmission cooler lines with 1/2in (-8AN) to ensure i don't wipe out another thrust bearing.
I’m not sure which style you’re going with, but you might consider wrapping your lines with some heat shield prior to the install. Wrapping them prior to install saved a big headache of trying to fight with the shield after the fact. Another trick is to put foam ear plugs in the ends of the lines (trans, oil cooler, fuel, power steering) then tape them off with painters tape just to keep any possible dirt/debris from getting inside the lines during your install.
Did you order a new o-ring/gasket for the transmission, or did the kit you’re buying already come with one?
 

Just Fishing

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Did you notice how loose the tank sits in the “housing slots” on the fenderwall, or was that one a better fit than OEM?
I think I ended up wrapping mine in some foam (the kind used for water lines) just to keep it from rattling around so much.
Of course it has to happen when the weather is crap. Glad it all went smoothly for you.

I’m not sure which style you’re going with, but you might consider wrapping your lines with some heat shield prior to the install. Wrapping them prior to install saved a big headache of trying to fight with the shield after the fact. Another trick is to put foam ear plugs in the ends of the lines (trans, oil cooler, fuel, power steering) then tape them off with painters tape just to keep any possible dirt/debris from getting inside the lines during your install.
Did you order a new o-ring/gasket for the transmission, or did the kit you’re buying already come with one?

Kit already came with one.
ICT billet brand.

and oh yeah, i'm a huge fan of the heat shields, learned that with my vette.
But with the ol vette, under hood temps get really hot, especially with long tubes.
Even with the ceramic coating, it creates enough heat and it can and has damaged things. :jester:

Heat Shield products is my go-to.
I even wrapped the oil pressure lines in the stuff after protecting the lines with some tough tubing.
Some 6mm air tubing for pneumatic cylinders fit perfectly.
I have used that stuff as tie downs for tarps in a pinch, plus i have a huge spool i bought to route an airline to the back corner of the backyard.
(Original plan for the bad neighbor was to use the cylinders to fold up and unfold something to "sparkle" the muddafker via remote with the help of a 20-gallon remote air tank (fed off of my Quincy) and an 8-gallon tank filled with water/sparkle mix... :emotions33: ... Since then, I have grown up a little... also chatting with an attorney helped talk me out of it and to go for the long game. SO i have plenty of this stuff on hand now... lol )

I'm planning to hard line some of the -8 an lines for tight areas, protect those tubes since I'm using aluminum, and then go to hose in some areas where a little flex would be a good idea.

My past experience with -AN fittings is to buy everything that you think you will need.
Be very careful with packaging and the fittings.
And then return the remaining once the project is done.

:cheers:


Good idea with the ear plugs, so far I have been using auto body masking tape, or electrical tape to cap the ends.
then blow out the tubing before install.
 

Just Fishing

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Also, anyone ever reached out to Texas speed and never got a reply?
I just sent my second inquiry to them ever.

First one I never got a reply, but this was back when I was building the engine.
Now I'm just asking to confirm that a part is in stock...

Edit: i just called them
they had the crankshaft i need listed on their site.
they have 1.
and it's "committed" to a build :emotions122:
 
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the_tool_man

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Also, anyone ever reached out to Texas speed and never got a reply?
I just sent my second inquiry to them ever.

First one I never got a reply, but this was back when I was building the engine.
Now I'm just asking to confirm that a part is in stock...

Edit: i just called them
they had the crankshaft i need listed on their site.
they have 1.
and it's "committed" to a build :emotions122:
No doubt Cleetus McFarland blew another motor. TS is his go-to.
 
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Not today, but earlier this week I replaced the passenger-side mirror on my recently bought Yukon XL Denali. When I bought the truck, I found out that the mirror had no power and that it rattled, so I had to adjust it by hand to drive it home.

Whoever replaced the original mirror did a complete hack job on this one. It was a basic mirror (no signal or blind spot lights at all), it was held in place by exactly one nut (hence the rattle), AND the harness was cut off. That explains why I couldn't adjust it with the power.

Put on my eBay replacement (TRQ), fought with the door panel to get it to stay on, and all is mostly well. I still need to replace the 3 door bolts and the trim pieces that cover them up, but that will be for another day.
 

Rocket Man

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Not today, but earlier this week I replaced the passenger-side mirror on my recently bought Yukon XL Denali. When I bought the truck, I found out that the mirror had no power and that it rattled, so I had to adjust it by hand to drive it home.

Whoever replaced the original mirror did a complete hack job on this one. It was a basic mirror (no signal or blind spot lights at all), it was held in place by exactly one nut (hence the rattle), AND the harness was cut off. That explains why I couldn't adjust it with the power.

Put on my eBay replacement (TRQ), fought with the door panel to get it to stay on, and all is mostly well. I still need to replace the 3 door bolts and the trim pieces that cover them up, but that will be for another day.
Be careful pulling on the panel to close the door without those bolts in place. The panels break easily and they’re not cheap. If you break the main handle part, you can’t buy just that piece, you’ll need to buy an entire door panel.
 

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