I’ll be super surprised if it makes any difference in your transmission but I guess we will see! You can always hope.
What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter vwbeaner
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Ah, yes. The ol' G80 additive conundrum.
I think the main confusion was from people trying to associate G80 with a particular type of LSD. "G80" is just a GM RPO code for "Axle Positraction, Limited Slip". It has no bearing on the specific type of LSD that is in the housing. G80 on the RPO sticker just meant it had some sort of LSD.
G80 in an S-series meant it had the Gov-Lock. G80 in a fourth gen F-body meant it had the Zexel Torsen. One used clutches and a friction modifier, the other used plain gear oil. They were mechanically interchangeable.
Last edited:
It finally stopped raining Saturday so I washed The Beast. Then Sunday morning I woke up to a light dusting of snow. It was grocery day so now it’s dirty again. Kinjo was like “ snow? this ain’t no da*n snow !” He looked so disappointed on his morning walk.
watchesandputters
TYF Newbie
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2021
- Posts
- 14
- Reaction score
- 16
Just wrapped up replacing the only brake line the previous owner didn't replace (rear one that runs from abs block to the rear splitter hose) with a stainless line. For anyone who happens upon this I have two pieces of advice:
1) DO NOT go with stainless lines, they cost me a ton of time and frustration until I found an obscure piece of advice on a random corvette forum thread. Even though it made all the difference I'd still go with a flexhose or nickel/copper line if I had to do it again.
2) If you decide to ignore my first piece of advice (don't) it is pretty easy to fish the pre-bent lines from the rear wheel well forward over the frame. Once you get it started above the frame from said wheel well try and walk it down over the frame while you're under the frame as much as you can.
1) DO NOT go with stainless lines, they cost me a ton of time and frustration until I found an obscure piece of advice on a random corvette forum thread. Even though it made all the difference I'd still go with a flexhose or nickel/copper line if I had to do it again.
2) If you decide to ignore my first piece of advice (don't) it is pretty easy to fish the pre-bent lines from the rear wheel well forward over the frame. Once you get it started above the frame from said wheel well try and walk it down over the frame while you're under the frame as much as you can.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
What was the advice you found?
Last edited:
watchesandputters
TYF Newbie
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2021
- Posts
- 14
- Reaction score
- 16
To put never seize on the back of the flare and on the inside of the corresponding flare nut. I tried no less than 30 times (probably more) to get where the line meets the rear hose seated perfectly, the nut hand threaded quite a ways down, and followed up with a wrench just watch it weep and weep and weep. Did the tighten it down, back it off, and go 1/6 turn farther a number of times just to get the same result (by this point I was putting an uncomfortable amount of force on the nut).
Once I added the never seize it's still the same process and still required way more force than you'd imagine to get the stainless flare to compress in the fitting but seated and sealed in my first attempt.
I thought you meant the feeding the line in from the rear forward.....
mhaywoodcz
TYF Newbie
Been there done that, its a pain. Maybe the copper is better. I experienced the same frustration, kept working it until finally It seated without the drip.
Sam Harris
Supporting Member
This is a known problem with certain kits, containing this 5th stainless line. I ended up having a hose made by a local shop (~$30), and it fit and sealed fine. It was definitely a PITA, and now the vendor (Goodridge) will send you a spacer IIRC, to correct the problem leak.
