What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Alex_M

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2021
Posts
357
Reaction score
653
Yup. The Grade 5 bolts themselves aren't so much the problem. It's that they're in single shear and doing double duty with keeping that fabricated lower half straight while clamping it all together. Most of the loads are linear with the shocks compressing and extending, but it's not a perfectly straight action. They're basically relying on 1/4" of thread and the aluminum to hold straight. A few sharp bumps could fold it.

A quick and easy fix would be to replace the spacers with thicker sleeves welded to those 1/4" plates and use nuts instead of the plate. I'd make the sleeves out of 1" solid round stock with a 3/8" hole through the center to maximize load plane and support for the bolt. I'd also top it off with Grade 8 hardware. Quite a similar repair/upgrade as what @Rocket Man did for his tie rod end spacers.

The lower mount is also being held straight by the support of the mount clamping into the original bushing in the control arm. That does allow a certain degree of flexibility, but also provides a good amount of support.

Of course, if the bolts do end up starting to loosen off I will just torque them back down and weld them into the plate from the bottom since this isn't a permanent situation.
 

Walchit

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2021
Posts
447
Reaction score
911
Sawzall? Oof. I would say I am in a mid-rust zone and I was able to get my upper and lower control arms out with just a prybar.

I do remember it being a little tricky with the upper control arm bolts because they are slotted for the camber alignment pins.

I also marked where those pins were so I could put it all back together and not screw my alignment. Which it did and my alignment was within proper range when I was finished.

FYI this is what I used for measuring my camber:
I was bashing them with a decent sledge and they wouldn't budge, had to cut 3 out of the 4, then stripped out one of the new bolts and had to cut the nut off of it, lol. I saw a guy on YouTube using an air hammer, but I can't really afford one right now. I was gonna get the more expensive version of that camber tool, but opted for an alignment instead, I'm probably gonna buy one instead of taking the Ford 500 for an alignment.
 

Tonyrodz

Resident Resident
Joined
Feb 16, 2012
Posts
30,978
Reaction score
45,107
Location
Central Jersey
I was bashing them with a decent sledge and they wouldn't budge, had to cut 3 out of the 4, then stripped out one of the new bolts and had to cut the nut off of it, lol. I saw a guy on YouTube using an air hammer, but I can't really afford one right now. I was gonna get the more expensive version of that camber tool, but opted for an alignment instead, I'm probably gonna buy one instead of taking the Ford 500 for an alignment.
Think I paid under $30 for an air hammer at HF. Got my rusted hub off in seconds after beating the crap out of it.
 

Logan5

Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2021
Posts
95
Reaction score
308
Location
Albany, NY
looks like im doing a fuel pump, today or tomorrow. todays gonna suck cause the ground is all wet and its like misting out still.......on the plus side. the tank is almost on E lol
Oh fun. I did mine last year, and while it was a poopy job it wasn't that terrible. I checked the pump before I left the store and good thing too because they gave me the wrong one. The guy asked me if it was the "Z" model and I having a Z71 figures that is what he is asking and say yes.

But.... he was asking about a "Z" in the VIN and that designates the flex fuel model which is a different fuel pump.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
129,117
Posts
1,810,722
Members
92,204
Latest member
22loweryak

Latest posts

Top