I really could use some help with this one. The battery drained overnight on 2 random occasions, which led me to the NAV unit I installed (the colors for the switched + and the constant + are reversed on the newer stuff). I have quick taps installed in the ignition harness for a remote start I'm ordering in the future, so I used the harness. As I was testing the unit (truck running), the wire for ignition 1 (pink) arced out on bare metal. Sparks flew and the truck shut off.
When I turned the ignition back on, the only light that came on was the battery light, so I ordered a new ignition switch from the parts store. Then using a jumper wire and the quick taps, I turned the ignition on and started the truck. Ran perfect, until I got to the store and turned the key off and the truck still ran. So I pulled the fuel pump relay and ran it out of gas. There was no change with the new ignition switch.
I ended up replacing 3 maxifuses in the fuse box under the hood. Then everything worked normal and I was relieved, until I turned the key off and the engine refused to shut off.
I pulled the fuel pump relay, and let it shut off. I did this with the key still "on", and when I turned the key to the off position, the radio and dash shut off like it's supposed to. I also tested the "retained power" circuit by leaving the door closed and reaching through the window to pull the key out, then opening the door. Works perfect. I don't know what to do or where to start looking. I've attached a diagram to the fuse box under the hood. If only I knew what all those abbreviations stood for.
When I turned the ignition back on, the only light that came on was the battery light, so I ordered a new ignition switch from the parts store. Then using a jumper wire and the quick taps, I turned the ignition on and started the truck. Ran perfect, until I got to the store and turned the key off and the truck still ran. So I pulled the fuel pump relay and ran it out of gas. There was no change with the new ignition switch.
I ended up replacing 3 maxifuses in the fuse box under the hood. Then everything worked normal and I was relieved, until I turned the key off and the engine refused to shut off.
I pulled the fuel pump relay, and let it shut off. I did this with the key still "on", and when I turned the key to the off position, the radio and dash shut off like it's supposed to. I also tested the "retained power" circuit by leaving the door closed and reaching through the window to pull the key out, then opening the door. Works perfect. I don't know what to do or where to start looking. I've attached a diagram to the fuse box under the hood. If only I knew what all those abbreviations stood for.
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