SOLVED: Loose steering wheel play -- is this normal?? (see video)

Is this type of loose steering wheel play normal for a 2004 Tahoe?

  • Yes

    Votes: 2 25.0%
  • No

    Votes: 6 75.0%

  • Total voters
    8

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ggeorgia

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PROBLEM SOLVED!! -- I finally determined that the cause was in fact the lower intermediate steering shaft! Thanks to every for the input, as it gave me some perspective to my situation.

Upon closer inspection at the steering gear box input shaft and lower intermediate steering shaft, I rotated the coupler joint (by hand) and could feel a bit of slop that was difficult to identify by merely looking at the connection. Although the input shaft had a little movement/slop, it was apparent that the majority of the slop could be attributed to the coupler on the lower intermediate steering shaft. I made sure once more that the pinch bolt was properly torqued (33 ft-lbs) but the connection remained sloppy.

As mentioned, I had previously replaced the upper and lower intermediate steering shafts in the fall of 2016 with Dorman parts (big mistake!), so I of assumed that it couldn't be the culprit since the replacement was relatively new. At the time, I was inclined to go with Dorman's design given the history of the original GM intermediate steering shaft and the problems that plagued it for years -- this is evident by the stories of many others on various boards for years. Dorman claimed to address the design flaws of GM, but seemed to have fallen short. I'm becoming increasingly leery of Dorman, as I just had another Dorman part (set of door hinge pin bushings) that was absolute junk. Their quality has completely gone south.

After reading responses from everyone last week and reinspecting, I decided to order a new GM OEM upper and lower intermediate steering shaft from RockAuto. By now, I figured that GM got their act together to fix the design issues. Got the new parts on Friday and installed this weekend. I was able to tell the difference immediately!

Here's the new video for comparison. I'm doing the 1-finger test (consistent with the first video) to demonstrate how firm/loose the steering wheel is when the truck if off:




Really appreciate everyone weighing in on this topic! I picked up some other good ideas Energy Suspension sway bar bushings.
 
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Fless

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Good news! Please change the thread title by adding "solved" to it. That will help others when they're searching for solutions to a specific problem.
 

Rocket Man

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Dorman’s quality has always been terrible. Only trust their parts on non critical components that are easily replaced. There’s very few of their parts that I will use, things like clips come to mind.
 

Tonyrodz

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PROBLEM SOLVED!! -- I finally determined that the cause was in fact the lower intermediate steering shaft! Thanks to every for the input, as it gave me some perspective to my situation.

Upon closer inspection at the steering gear box input shaft and lower intermediate steering shaft, I rotated the coupler joint (by hand) and could feel a bit of slop that was difficult to identify by merely looking at the connection. Although the input shaft had a little movement/slop, it was apparent that the majority of the slop could be attributed to the coupler on the lower intermediate steering shaft. I made sure once more that the pinch bolt was properly torqued (33 ft-lbs) but the connection remained sloppy.

As mentioned, I had previously replaced the upper and lower intermediate steering shafts in the fall of 2016 with Dorman parts (big mistake!), so I of assumed that it couldn't be the culprit since the replacement was relatively new. At the time, I was inclined to go with Dorman's design given the history of the original GM intermediate steering shaft and the problems that plagued it for years by the stories of many others for years. Dorman claimed to address the design flaws of GM, but seemed to have fallen short. I'm becoming increasingly leery of Dorman, as I just had another Dorman part (set of door hinge pin bushings) that was absolute junk. Their quality has completely gone south.

After reading responses from everyone last week and reinspecting, I decided to order a new GM OEM upper and lower intermediate steering shaft from RockAuto. By now, I figured that GM got their act together to fix the design issues. Got the new parts on Friday and installed this weekend. I was able to tell the difference immediately!

Here's the new video for comparison. I'm doing the 1-finger test (consistent with the first video) to demonstrate how firm/loose the steering wheel is when the truck if off:




Really appreciate everyone weighing in on this topic! I picked up some other good ideas Energy Suspension sway bar bushings.
What did the new parts run you? Part #'s?
 
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ggeorgia

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What did the new parts run you? Part #'s?

Lower Intermediate Steering Shaft:
GM GENUINE 25958109
$146.79

Upper Intermediate Steering Shaft:
GM GENUINE 19329330
$63.79



Steering Gear Box (New, not Remanufactured):
LARES 11422
$334.79


Coupling Shaft Bolt (Replace this if the head seems stripped like mine was. I bought one from ebay since it's not currently in stock on RockAuto.) :
GM GENUINE 26030302
$6.84
 
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BigDogYJ

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Thanks for this info. I’ve been trying to track down a similar issue after placing the intermediate shaft, column bearing, steering box, idler, pitman and tie rod ends I still had this slop. I’ll try the lower shaft as well. During my research I came across another part number for this lower shaft (25958108). It appears this part number is for the 2500HD/3500 trucks. So for reference : 25958109 is for all 1/2 ton trucks and suvs and 25958108 is for all 2500HD/3500 trucks or any 1/2 ton with a body lift. It’s a bit longer to take into account the factory body lift on these models. This applies to gmt-800 only. These part numbers might fit other years and models

I mention this because of my situation. I have a 2500 Yukon xl with a 1.5” body lift up front. So I ordered the longer one (25958108). The upper or intermediate shaft is the same per number for all models in this series.




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dan newman

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I went 3/8 of a turn on my steering box, never looked back. I need an idler and pitman arm,,, but it's knot as bad as MR Bentwrench trys to tell me. I am the driver and I'll make that call, I have a whole complete front end kit if and when I feel it's needed. Bilstein gas shocks are worth the money,,, if anyone needs a little push,,,
 
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ggeorgia

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Thanks for this info. I’ve been trying to track down a similar issue after placing the intermediate shaft, column bearing, steering box, idler, pitman and tie rod ends I still had this slop. I’ll try the lower shaft as well. During my research I came across another part number for this lower shaft (25958108). It appears this part number is for the 2500HD/3500 trucks. So for reference : 25958109 is for all 1/2 ton trucks and suvs and 25958108 is for all 2500HD/3500 trucks or any 1/2 ton with a body lift. It’s a bit longer to take into account the factory body lift on these models. This applies to gmt-800 only. These part numbers might fit other years and models

I mention this because of my situation. I have a 2500 Yukon xl with a 1.5” body lift up front. So I ordered the longer one (25958108). The upper or intermediate shaft is the same per number for all models in this series.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Nice! I've always admired the 2500 series of the Yukon/Suburban. Is that the 6.0L or the 8.1L ?

If you do replace the lower intermediate shaft, definitely make sure to torque down the coupler/pinch bolt to spec (33 ft-lbs per Chilton book). Getting the bolt "tight" may not be tight enough as I initially found out during installation. Only after going back with the torque wrench, did the last of the slop disappear. I was getting a bit nervous myself -- fearing that the bolt might snap off before hearing the click on the torque wrench, but I did finally hear the click (or beep, depending on your torque wrench). When I'm extra paranoid, I sometimes put a digital torque adapter in between a click-type torque wrench and the bit to double-check in case calibration is off.

upload_2021-3-22_20-2-58.png
 

BigDogYJ

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Nice! I've always admired the 2500 series of the Yukon/Suburban. Is that the 6.0L or the 8.1L ?

View attachment 274081

It WAS an 8.1. It's got an LBZ Duramax/Allison in it now. Hence the body lift to clear the intercooler.

Good point on the torque specs. Steering, brakes and suspension are important things to adhere to torque specs for.
 

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