17 Yukon 4” ReadyLIFT SST Lift

@STORMIN08 do any of your stock suspension pics show the slack In that brake line at full lock? If so, please share.

they do not, the similar pic i have doesnt show that portion of the line...

i will get you one.

Made some tweaks today to allow the ABS wires and brake hoses to move freely during full lock full droop situations in the front, and abs full droop in the back. ReadyLIFT located the UCA brake bracket stud at close to the stock position and it didn’t seem quite optimal on my rig with the lift. First pic you can see the original brake bracket hole, drilled a new 1/4” hole where you see the stud/nut. Second pic shows the new situation at drivers side full lock right turn (heck of a lot better than my previous pic in this thread). Moved onto the rear, third pic twisted that wire clamp a bit, it was originally at an angle, and wrapped some electrical tape around it to fit into the clamp to retain it. I tried to oil and slide the grommet up, but that wasn’t happening.

Looks great. I'd drive it.

Looks outstanding!! This is the same kit the local shop recommended to me.. I had a few questions as this is my first lift and I am going in a little hesitant. My pops had us jumping into his trucks all with 6 inch lifts since we were in diapers so I know I'm down with it. Just heard so many Cons with lifts that it's had me second guessing...of course pops says, it's good to go and is all for it..

1. Are those 33s in the picture with the lift. As I also was thinking that was the best size to go with 4 inches. Cutting involved?

2. As this is a main reason I'm concerned, but do warning lights pop up...as with the one you initially stated you had to clear.

3. Does everything else function properly ie. Cruise control without issue.

I'll probably end up doing it regardless, but just a little insight on these topics would be helpful! Or I could just ask Pops again and he'll talk me into it. Maybe even going to up to 6inches Lol.

Thanks in advance!
Doing this on a 2016 Tahoe LS 2WD

If done properly with a reputable kit..all works as did stock.

Also from expirience...I would rather have a lift that keeps as much geometry as stock.

Ie...a 4-6 " lift the uses a drop cross member, preferably longer struts, coils and shocks

Keeping stock parts and using extending bra kits I purely for on road looks.

I may do a 2-2 1/4" front level, but even at 1.5" my 2011 tahoe never aligned correctly

STORMIN08 said:

If done properly with a reputable kit..all works as did stock.

Also from expirience...I would rather have a lift that keeps as much geometry as stock.

Ie...a 4-6 " lift the uses a drop cross member, preferably longer struts, coils and shocks

Keeping stock parts and using extending bra kits I purely for on road looks.

I may do a 2-2 1/4" front level, but even at 1.5" my 2011 tahoe never aligned correctly

Click to expand...

Thanks Stormin...so for example this kit, the readylift 4 inch, would that suffice for more looks and daily driver...thats what I pretty much do, and take some switchbacks, dirt roads once in a blue moon. 95 percent street. And is this kit company good quality reputable parts... This is the 4 inch kit available here to me at a local shop and it's in my budget. This would be my first personal lift on one of my trucks so I think 4 would be cool. Last choice is a readylift 1.5 or their 2.5 level kit. Would I need new control arms for the level?? Cause if so, I'd be like damn, maybe I shoulda at least went for the 4. Anyway, thanks for the reply again...I'm down with the little bit harsher ride, but I think with a better kit and new 33 Toyo At3s (on 18s), it would be pretty nice and decently smooth. What do you think, go for it? I'm excepting 2-3 mpgs less, and a little harsher ride maybe.. but for the most part a nice beefier truck vs a soccer mom suv. The total with the 4inch kit, new toyos, and new pro comp wheels, 4600 installed...is that a lot??

Without looking up specifics...there is a 4" that only drops the front diff for shaft angles.

For me, that is too much lift with put correcting A-arm angles.

Secondly, some replacement upper arms recommend or require a different off set wheel (seey pic again), as the tubes are larger diameter or on slightly different approach angles.


When exceeding *** amount
( tahoe/suburban being 2-2.5" max), I would prefer to see a drop crossmember Lowering the lower arms, and providing a longer knuckle to keep stock a arm angles and ball joint angles.

The new knuckle being longer (outside wheel barrel) and thick generally requires a different offset wheel.

That off set could be
1. New wheels
2. Spacers (I do not recommend)

Doing your homework now ensures a correctly performing vehicle, nice ride experience and No quick for sale signs.

Cool

STORMIN08 said:

Without looking up specifics...there is a 4" that only drops the front diff for shaft angles.

For me, that is too much lift with put correcting A-arm angles.

Secondly, some replacement upper arms recommend or require a different off set wheel (seey pic again), as the tubes are larger diameter or on slightly different approach angles.


When exceeding *** amount
( tahoe/suburban being 2-2.5" max), I would prefer to see a drop crossmember Lowering the lower arms, and providing a longer knuckle to keep stock a arm angles and ball joint angles.

The new knuckle being longer (outside wheel barrel) and thick generally requires a different offset wheel.

That off set could be
1. New wheels
2. Spacers (I do not recommend)

Doing your homework now ensures a correctly performing vehicle, nice ride experience and No quick for sale signs.

Click to expand...

Cool!! Yeah, I was told I'd have to get new wheels if I went higher than a level which I didn't initially factoring in price wise of the total lift n tires ..I was cool with stocks. Some more things to think about...thanks again!

even the higher lift amount level kits, i would highly recommend the replacement of upper control arms...some of which recommend lesser off set wheels.

remove a wheel, placing jack under the control arm...lower to stock height and look around, crank wheel both ways and observe all you can on clearances...then do the same with the wheel on, but jack under crossmember, setting height to the amount of you level you desire, reinspect and take good measurements.