Mild 6.0L Build Suggestions?

Claims "Mild 6.0L Build" but builds for 8,000 RPM action...

iamdub said:

Claims "Mild 6.0L Build" but builds for 8,000 RPM action...

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easy to get carried away... my wallet hates me haha

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Matthew Jeschke said:

Just arrived custom ground camshaft, springs and retainers:

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Love my Vinci cams. And Roger is so full of knowledge it’s crazy. Dude answered my emails even on weekends. He actually gave me his personal cell phone number. Those dual springs are a bit of a ***** to install, hope you have a good spring compressor. But since your heads are off the engine it will be easier. You just have to get good at guessing how far off- center to start them before compressing because they start out close to the outside of the stem but as you compress them they need to end up centered. Good choice.

Awesome thanks I have heads off. Also bought one of those screw on style compressors. Hopefully is strong enough. It was chinese quality from amazon.

Kind of wondering if Roger would know about these GKN R rods I cannot figure out. I cannot find another example of them anywhere. Scoured the internet all day looking and asking questions wherever I could.

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He might, doesn’t hurt to ask him.

I find some info on those chamfers/reliefs in the rod journals. The relief's in the rods are called "Oil Squirters". Typically they are in line with the piston wrist pin, camshaft or other components. Then it provides additional cooling and lubrication. They also are mostly done by machine shops but these look to be part of original casting.

Additionally, I still cannot figure out where or if there are any more of them. It's a superior design but I'm also not sure if still run the stock oil pump with them? I'd imagine they bleed some pressure.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generati...-difference-between-these-two-gen-4-rods.html

UPDATE: I found out the rods I got were a limited run by GM. It was to test a little different oiling system. I ordered a set of rods w/o the oil chamfer / relief.

Which way does main cap #1 go? It look s like it is supposed to be installed backwards? I'm not sure...



I'm finding this video pretty helpful... Although they don't say out right, but I think my intuition is right... It goes opposite of the others?

iamdub said:

I hope you got this out of your system now! Going forward, just know that GM changes their part numbers ALL the time. I'm sure it's just as often due to something as simple as a part coming from a different supplier as it is a change in design. In this case, it's a crank pulley- if the functional dimensions match your old one, run it.

"...What's in a part number? That which we call a 12634105, by any other number would spin as sweet?"

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As someone who worked at a gm dealership for a few years, i hated going to the parts counter unless the old "wise parts wizard " was working. He could almost look at what you were working on and tell you what part number you needed.
Oh and for fun GM had a cast aluminum front diff for s10 and blazers and a cast IRON diff for s10 and blazers that had the SAME part number.

Mudsport96 said:

As someone who worked at a gm dealership for a few years, i hated going to the parts counter unless the old "wise parts wizard " was working. He could almost look at what you were working on and tell you what part number you needed.
Oh and for fun GM had a cast aluminum front diff for s10 and blazers and a cast IRON diff for s10 and blazers that had the SAME part number.

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I knew they had aluminum and iron diffs, but didn't know they had the same part number. Interesting! I guess that's why everyone on s10forum always said "you just have to look at it" when people were searching the yards and online for them.

That is wild... I wonder if the cast iron front diff could take a locker?

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