Seeking advice on front suspension maintenance

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SSN-759

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I'm the original owner of a 2002 Z71 Tahoe w/ 170K miles. I'm enjoying doing some DIY maintenance, some of which is probably long overdue. I recently completed some basic suspension work, including replacing front and rear shocks with Bilstein 5100's and replacing the rear coil springs, front and rear bump stops and the front and rear stabilizer bar links and bushings. I also replaced both front wheel bearing and hub assemblies. Man, what a pain that was. Thank goodness for the Hub Buster.

My original ball joints appear to be in not good condition, so replacing them was going to be my next maintenance item. I figured I would also replace the control arm bushings while I was it. This got me to wondering if I should just replace the control arms themselves rather than do the individual ball joints and bushings, but I don't know how to evaluate the control arms. I've spent the last 15 years in Texas, so they aren't rusting away from salt exposure, but they are 19 years old with 170K on them.

Any thoughts on what the better approach would be? Also, are there any other axle or suspension component replacements I should evaluate and consider replacing while I'm in there? Thanks!
 

swathdiver

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I'm the original owner of a 2002 Z71 Tahoe w/ 170K miles. I'm enjoying doing some DIY maintenance, some of which is probably long overdue. I recently completed some basic suspension work, including replacing front and rear shocks with Bilstein 5100's and replacing the rear coil springs, front and rear bump stops and the front and rear stabilizer bar links and bushings. I also replaced both front wheel bearing and hub assemblies. Man, what a pain that was. Thank goodness for the Hub Buster.

My original ball joints appear to be in not good condition, so replacing them was going to be my next maintenance item. I figured I would also replace the control arm bushings while I was it. This got me to wondering if I should just replace the control arms themselves rather than do the individual ball joints and bushings, but I don't know how to evaluate the control arms. I've spent the last 15 years in Texas, so they aren't rusting away from salt exposure, but they are 19 years old with 170K on them.

Any thoughts on what the better approach would be? Also, are there any other axle or suspension component replacements I should evaluate and consider replacing while I'm in there? Thanks!

Replace the entire arm so you don't have to fool with pressing out the old bushing and pressing in the new ones, let alone dealing with the ball joints. On my truck, which I think is the same for yours, the upper ball joints are not replaceable so you have to do the whole arm anyway.

From doing research on mine, GM OE is better than ACDelco Professional which is the same as MOOG's top grade control arms.
 

OR VietVet

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SSN-759

SSN-759

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Might as well go whole hog and do the steering linkages at the same time and get it aligned. I looked this all up at RA and on th center link the only choice that had the pic was the "professional line" but the better oe design is listed with no pic.

Thanks for the help. I ordered the GM OE where it's available (Pitman arm, idler arm & bracket, inner & outer tie rods) and the ACDelco Professional center link.

I've decided to keep the factory control arms and do the ball joints and bushings. Planning to use Lemforder ball joints and an Energy Suspension control arm bushing set.

Looking forward to getting this front end done.
 

OR VietVet

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I still think the best bet is the complete control arms but it is your call of course.
 

Big Mama

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I’m doing the whole shebang when it cools off. As James said the arms with ball joints let me keep rolling vs taking them out going to shop and putting in new ones. Also have more confidence it’s done right.
 

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I agree with doing the complete arm. So much easier to R&R than to replace bushing and ball joint on OE arm. I replace them on my wife’s Esky with some from Rockauto. If they have these for your vehicle, I highly recommend. Good quality and perfect fit. I would also recommend new hardware and alignment cams as well as sway bar end links while your there. Mark where your cams are so you can transfer it to new cams and take your inner and outer tie rods off as a unit so you can make the replacement match the length so your alignment is really far off so you can drive it in without scuffing your tires.
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SSN-759

SSN-759

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I agree with doing the complete arm. So much easier to R&R than to replace bushing and ball joint on OE arm. I replace them on my wife’s Esky with some from Rockauto. If they have these for your vehicle, I highly recommend. Good quality and perfect fit. I would also recommend new hardware and alignment cams as well as sway bar end links while your there. Mark where your cams are so you can transfer it to new cams and take your inner and outer tie rods off as a unit so you can make the replacement match the length so your alignment is really far off so you can drive it in without scuffing your tires.

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I appreciate the feedback. I was leaning toward getting the MOOG CK Problem Solver control arms, but perhaps I let too many negative product reviews and truck forum comments get in my head. In researching the aftermarket options, you can't help but notice guys trashing the ball joints that come in the ACDelco Professional and the top-end MOOG and Mevotech control arms. Some would have you believe they're all Chinese garbage and a waste of time and money.

I'll rethink it before hitting the purchase button.
 

Byoung1330

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I did my suspension. everything is new. I did new arms on uppers and did a individual ball joint on passenger side. Decided I didnt want to do that again so replaced whole lower arm on driver side. Way more money but way easier
 

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