97 tahoe AC problems

Marbor · Jul 11, 2020

Good morning to all hope someone can help me out here.
My issue is the rear AC hose was busted so I disconnected and topped off. In the process I recharge with dye and was working for a few days then went hot and no AC. I black light to find the leak and the condensor was shot. I replaced the condensor vac out let it sit for more then an hour at -27 psi no movement so I proceeded to charge. I added the small 3oz can of dye stop leak and a 12 oz can of refrigerate. AC clutch kicked on and all seemed normal until I noticed my low side gauge is clocking over 100psi and my high side is pushing past 400 450 mark. Seems to me overly charged badly a little cold air And compressor is kicking on every min or so. What could be tge cause any help would be appreciated.

Marbor · Jul 11, 2020

Marbor said:
Good morning to all hope someone can help me out here.
My issue is the rear AC hose was busted so I disconnected and topped off. In the process I recharge with dye and was working for a few days then went hot and no AC. I black light to find the leak and the condensor was shot. I replaced the condensor vac out let it sit for more then an hour at -27 psi no movement so I proceeded to charge. I added the small 3oz can of dye stop leak and a 12 oz can of refrigerate. AC clutch kicked on and all seemed normal until I noticed my low side gauge is clocking over 100psi and my high side is pushing past 400 450 mark. Seems to me overly charged badly a little cold air And compressor is kicking on every min or so. What could be tge cause any help would be appreciated.

To add in prior to replacing the condensor the system had 0 pressure on both sides

96-2D-Hoe · Jul 11, 2020

Not sure about the gauge readings, could there still be air in there? That would give you higher than normal pressures.

My 96 2 door with no rear AC takes 48 oz / 3lbs gas, if you only added 12oz you are still way short, but I don't think you should be hitting 100psi on the low side. When charging my old/original compressor cycles around 20-50PSI

OR VietVet · Jul 11, 2020

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=84624&cc=1061367&jsn=2266

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=83072&cc=1061367&jsn=2285

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8320853&jsn=2330

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7934548&jsn=2350

Did you put oil back in the system and if so, how much. The links show the other items that should have been done when you did the work. Just slapping in a new part without flushing and replacing accumulator and orifice is not recommended and can lead to problems.

Marbor · Jul 11, 2020

No oil just refrigerate here is the deal 1st time system was dead I had my friend at shop clear the system then I added the peg oil 3 oz and re charged 45 oz worked for a day or so then went bad found issue condensor and replaced no pressure in the system. Re filled with a can and a half from what was left in the 1st round and had this high pressuer issue. Just went out and hooked up and pressure was low running around 20lbs no compressor kicking on added a half can and compressor kicked on with vary mild AC. I'm guessing there's another leak somewhere will wait till dak huts and search with black light since the can had a mix of leak fix and dye.

OR VietVet · Jul 11, 2020

Likely another leak and should do the other items I listed and never add refrigerant to a system that has not been evacuated, like you did after the condenser replacement.

wjburken · Jul 11, 2020

@UmmScott might have some ideas.

96-2D-Hoe · Jul 11, 2020

Definitely want to replace the orifice tube whenever you can. As your system has been open so much you should also change the accumulator/drier like Ron suggested. Sounds like you did still have air in it.
For leak detection you can't beat strong soapy water, and use a sponge to make up foam. Cover the connections in the foam and look for bubbles. Tiny leaks will normally make one bubble that keeps getting bigger, a stronger leak will create a stream of bubbles. But that wouldn't find a leaking condenser. Good luck.

PS.
The HT-6 / original compressor has a history of leaking, it's not called a belly leaker for nothing. I'm pretty sure mine leaks.
The stop leak is junk that will clog up your system. Don't use it, just find and fix any leaks.

Marbor · Jul 11, 2020

PNW VietVet said:
Likely another leak and should do the other items I listed and never add refrigerant to a system that has not been evacuated, like you did after the condenser replacement.[/QUOTE

Prior to adding refrigerate I did evac the system as I stated prior i had it sitting at -27 psi for over an hour while I had a few drinks and BBQ lol
After all that I then added the refrigerate then the high psi issue happened. Am I missing something on the evac part??

96-2D-Hoe · Jul 11, 2020

"Am I missing something on the evac part??"

No, but if the system is still leaking you will be drawing air in. -30PSI is where it should be but the gauge can be off a bit. What I do is listen for the change in tone from the vacuum pump as well as check the gauge. When you think your vac is done shut your gauge down and let it sit. Flick the gauge to make sure it doesn't move. But after 30 mins or so start your vac pump up again and open the gauge. If it has a full vacuum the tone of the pump will not change when you open the gauge, but if it does it means it's not a full vacuum and you are likely leaking or still have gas evaporating from the oil.

97 tahoe AC problems

Marbor

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OR VietVet

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Marbor

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OR VietVet

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wjburken

96-2D-Hoe

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