Aux Trans Cooler with Fan OPTIONS

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Foggy

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I am considering mounting a stacked plate trans cooler with fan to replace my oem aux trans cooler.

Anyone have any pics or suggestions

I have my SC Heat Exchanger mounted in front, so was thinking something under bumper/fascia area

thanks
 

thompsoj22

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I chose the DERALE 13960 stacked plate design with a 500 cfm fan that draws 4.8 amps. I havent started the install yet but will be using the area behind the front facia under the bumper. the lower "fake" air inlet will be modified to allow air to enter. Big plans but havent acted upon them, plenty of room with the only challenge being the plumbing and my "perfectionist" attitude. We took the TT on a camping trip last week and on a 11 mile 6 degree grade the trans hit 238f. Way to hot! The outside temp was 103, welcome to my desert world. I did notice that it attempted to hold at 204f for allmost 5 miles but as the coolant temp rose to the middle between normal to hot the trans temp ran away. Had the hill been longer i would have had to pull over. I have commented before in regard to trans temp affecting coolant temp and vice versa. Ill try to get on this trans cooler install as im sure that removing the cooler from in front of the ac condenser/radiator and going from the factory 10 plate to the DERALE 25 plate will have me where i want to be. $236 shipped was the cost. I will do pic's on install with my daughters tutorial on how simple it is to take the pic, import the pic, attach the pic, yikes!
 
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thompsoj22

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Just a little update on my cooling fan motor's which are twin 500 cfm with one 5 blade passenger side and one 7 blade driver side. Installed both new 700 watt motors and the electrical system did not like the current draw at idle when both fans cycle from low to high simultaneously. so i am now running the one 700 watt motor on the driver side only and installed a new 7 blade fan blade assy to go with it and all went well on a recent 400 mile loop with a sick 1.5 hour traffic jam using ac and our daughter watching the dvd, No electrical glitches, I do run a 2.25 overdrive pulley on the alt in the summer and have had great results. I replaced the fan blade assy because of the "massive" amount of air that these motors move. 700 watt motors/fan's are super loud but i noticed a reduced trans temp in the stop and go traffic. Im still working on the 220 amp alt's that are stock on the silverado/suburban 2500, They are plug and play and i have one from a ebay salvage yard. It works but looks tired, ordered a $139 DBELECTRICAL 220amp brand new shipped to my door but the diodes failed the test right outa the box. "MADE IN CHINA CRAP" but me being the cheap to a fault knuckle head that i am asked them to send me another to see if maybe this was just bad luck. The denso part number for these alts is 22942466/9860 if you buy a reman from oreilleys it would set you back $567. The reason im adding this info is our vehicles electrical systems are allready burdened and adding the remote trans cooler with fan just adds to it.
 
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thompsoj22

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What happened?


It blanked out the stereo screen. After finishing a bunch of work on the vehicle including the fan motors i took it on a test drive. Everything was fine at highway speeds, Ac was on, stereo was on, Headlights were on as it was night and as i slowed down to an idle to make a u turn the lights dimmed and the stereo changed stations and the screen/display went blank. My guess is the fan motors went from low to high at idle and drew enough current to fubar the electronics? I really cant explain how a current draw would do that but i now run the one 700/7 blade and one 500/5 blade and it hasnt happened again. I also had not installed my 2.25 overdrive alt pulley that i use for the summer yet so that may have been a contributor. Twin 700's draw enormouse current momentairly when they first start and from low to high speed. i did post in the stereo section on a fix for the screen on the bose systems that you simply input a code and it corrects the screen issue.
 

swathdiver

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It blanked out the stereo screen. After finishing a bunch of work on the vehicle including the fan motors i took it on a test drive. Everything was fine at highway speeds, Ac was on, stereo was on, Headlights were on as it was night and as i slowed down to an idle to make a u turn the lights dimmed and the stereo changed stations and the screen/display went blank. My guess is the fan motors went from low to high at idle and drew enough current to fubar the electronics? I really cant explain how a current draw would do that but i now run the one 700/7 blade and one 500/5 blade and it hasnt happened again. I also had not installed my 2.25 overdrive alt pulley that i use for the summer yet so that may have been a contributor. Twin 700's draw enormouse current momentairly when they first start and from low to high speed. i did post in the stereo section on a fix for the screen on the bose systems that you simply input a code and it corrects the screen issue.

That makes sense, is the battery tired? Could the type or part number of the relay make a difference? I know enough about electrical systems to start fires!
 

Tim907356

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Well we are on parallel paths my friend! I have another thread on the same subject so I won't bore with the details found there: "Transmission Stumble". I am installing a Tru-Cool 30k auxiliary cooler inline with factory unit, behind the lower fascia. It will be passive though; no fans. Here are some pics below. The one question I have for the audience is,
Which factory line is 'send', and which is 'return'?

IMG_3622[1].JPG IMG_3620[1].JPG IMG_3621[1].JPG
 

thompsoj22

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Now this is beyond coincidence? I just did the cut out today of the lower fascia identical to yours! the derale 13960 is mounted/wired but im waiting til tomorrow for two AN6 90's to finish the plumbing. I took photos of the install and will post soon. The install is solid but alot of work, in hindsight the trukool 40k would have been so much easier but we live in the desert and im concerned with excessive heat in front of the evaporator. The fan on the cooler isnt super strong, this thing better work as advertised!

Just finished the plumbing, No leaks and functioning. Im not sure if ill keep the radiator in the circuit as it is currently installed. The thermostat on the DERALE is set at 180f and i have yet to hit that temp with normal driving, It averages 145 to 165f and im second guessing that i should plumb for stand alone and truly reduce the temps? We will head to mammoth next week again to the bike park so the 8 mile 6% grade at 100f+ will be the tell all. The engine coolant has a dramatic/fast reaction on the trans fluid and i would like to see the temps without the engine coolant influence.
IMG_0085[1].JPG IMG_0088[1].JPG IMG_0081[1].JPG View attachment 252175 IMG_0082[1].JPG IMG_0083[1].JPG
 
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When doing that lower grill cutout, can you still mount a license plate?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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