Maintenance pricing as our Tahoe ages - what’s appropriate now versus waiting

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DrNick

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Hello.

My old account has been lost since we purchased our 2013 Tahoe new back in 2013. The vehicle has been a real maintenance free machine. Has 110k miles approximately. Z71 LT 4WD. Gone through one battery and set of tires.

Our local dealer has always provided the “recommended” actions during our oil changes. Recently I noticed our passenger motor mount was broken (leaking the fluid) and will have it fixed and figured I would tackle some of these items they “recommend” while it’s there. Also believe our brakes/rotors are due too.

So here is the list, please debate the pricing and if any are truly needed. None have been done to date, we purchased vehicle new.

• air intake $139
• throttle body $89 - well i have done this and they didn’t notice how shiny it was :)
• drive line $375
• transmission flush/clean $199
• cooling system flush/clean $149
• power steering $119

So what’s your thoughts? We have not had any issues with coolant, tranny, steering, or engine performance. Besides the rough idle thingy, I’m just wondering if the fluid components of the vehicle need to be addressed. Should Serp belt be replaced? I can do that myself. But the other Technical maintenance like brakes, etc...I will leave to experts to save time and headache. And I know they are upcharging because they said the mounts were 138$ and rockauto has the same at 98$.
 

cfmistry

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Are you planning to keep the Tahoe? If yes, then I think you should do all of the above maintenance. If you feel the dealer is not worth it anymore as the car ages, I think moving to a quality independent shop is entirely reasonable. But if you plan to keep it another 20k+ miles, then you should keep up with all the fluids/filters.
 

avalonandl

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Your descriptions are too generic. Air Intake ? All you need is a new Air filter. Cleaning TB...$ 8 for the cleaner and some rags and old toothbrush.

Driveline ? U Joints or ?

What about brakes?
 

OR VietVet

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First: Welcome back to the forum from Oregon. Plus this......


We recommend that you put all your rig(s) info in your signature so we all don’t have to guess at year, make, model, engine size, trans, rear axle locker…….etc. While you may have posted pertinent info in your first post, you may forget to do it again and the info is needed by us anyway. Makes it way easier on all members that attempt to help, to have that info right up front. It is also recommended that you take a pic of your RPO codes, on the inside cover of the glove box, and post that image in your signature. All this info will greatly help those that will try to help with a problem.


If there is any other info, like upgrades, mods or recent mechanical/maintenance work done, that would be helpful in any post as well. Too many times a question is asked by the poster and after about 10 responses we find out that the poster has done recent work to attempt to fix the problem or work that was done that SEEMS not related to the problem.


I agree with Roger, way too generic. I have never heard of driveline maintenance. What the hell is that? No maintenance but replacement if needed. Maybe lube the slip yoke or what ever they make up. What about plugs and wires? Were they done already. One thing for sure, like my dad taught me, "Maintenance pays and breakdowns cost". If you plan on keeping it I would do the aintenance and find a shop to trust because those dealer prices are obnoxious. Plus, you should shorten the times/mileage between maintenance.
 

Seamus

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I was in the same bought right after my purchase of a 2013 Suburban LTZ that was very well maintained by the dealer since new. But as you approach 100K it is time to tighten things up. I do not believe in addressing items one at a time as it takes away from your enjoyment of use and can be very annoying leading people to buying new cars. We all know this is a very dependable and predictable platform. I even came back to this truck after 4 trucks of the new platform. I knew how much better the LS based trucks were. So with that said your list is a good start. But I will add to it as preventable and good maintenance.

I would do a filter and change of trans fluid not just a flush.
I don't know what driveline means? But make sure differential fluid is changed out.
I did the serp belt, and all tensioner/pulleys
change all 4 O2 sensors
Change MAF sensor
Spark plugs (The good ones Iridium)
wires
flush brake fluid
check all sway bar bushings and mounts ( mine needed replacing and it was a Florida clean truck) Its heavy!
Upon inspection my axle seals were leaking
Brakes/rotors
synthetic oil/Wix filters
Do a good inspection under and around the truck
Big deep detail of entire truck, lube all weatherstrip, lube all hinges and latches
check all your hoses (I replaced the lower hose) I figured that was the one hose I could not fix on the side of the road!
Check for codes
Alignment
Tires? (highly recommend Michelin Defender LTX) Transformed my truck !


I made this a 1 month project and now its ready to go at anytime and go anywhere good for another 100K

Best of luck
 
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OP
DrNick

DrNick

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First: Welcome back to the forum from Oregon. Plus this......


We recommend that you put all your rig(s) info in your signature so we all don’t have to guess at year, make, model, engine size, trans, rear axle locker…….etc. While you may have posted pertinent info in your first post, you may forget to do it again and the info is needed by us anyway. Makes it way easier on all members that attempt to help, to have that info right up front. It is also recommended that you take a pic of your RPO codes, on the inside cover of the glove box, and post that image in your signature. All this info will greatly help those that will try to help with a problem.


If there is any other info, like upgrades, mods or recent mechanical/maintenance work done, that would be helpful in any post as well. Too many times a question is asked by the poster and after about 10 responses we find out that the poster has done recent work to attempt to fix the problem or work that was done that SEEMS not related to the problem.


I agree with Roger, way too generic. I have never heard of driveline maintenance. What the hell is that? No maintenance but replacement if needed. Maybe lube the slip yoke or what ever they make up. What about plugs and wires? Were they done already. One thing for sure, like my dad taught me, "Maintenance pays and breakdowns cost". If you plan on keeping it I would do the aintenance and find a shop to trust because those dealer prices are obnoxious. Plus, you should shorten the times/mileage between maintenance.

Thanks! And thanks for the input. We just got back from vacation and was struggling getting new account set up here. I will get that info added ASAP If that helps folks.

The vehicle is stock, no mods. Just the normal oil change and air filter when required. Vehicle runs great and have never had issues. Nothing has been removed or replaced on the vehicle except battery, air filter, motor oil/filter, and set of tires.

The “drive line” is the front/rear differential and transfer case is what I can figure. Air intake is throwing me for a loop, maybe cleaning the sensor? I know it isn’t the filter because that is separate ;).

I can do (And have done) the TB myself, and looking at posts/videos I can take care of power steering, front diff, transfer case, and maybe rear diff. I’m more hesitant on the rear because of the torquing and gasket details, maybe let the expert do that.

We are going to have the brake system investigated because there was some squeaking we observed.
 

Miami-Dade

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Are you planning to keep the Tahoe? If yes, then I think you should do all of the above maintenance. If you feel the dealer is not worth it anymore as the car ages, I think moving to a quality independent shop is entirely reasonable. But if you plan to keep it another 20k+ miles, then you should keep up with all the fluids/filters.

I agree with all this. If you plan on using a independent shop I would make sure they use only AC Delco parts and fluids. Most independents will let you bring your parts-fluids from the auto store or dealer.

I use both a independent and dealer. The dealer has been decent to me so that is why I switch from one to the other. This way I stay on the good side of both of them. For ATF fluid changes I only let the dealer do it.
 

OR VietVet

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When I ran shops it was always discouraged for customers to supply parts. Mostly because customers would try to bring in the cheapest crap they could find and then when a problem occurs the blame is pointed at the shop instead of the crappy part. I did find an independent quality shop that is ran by 2 ASE Master Techs that I had done business with before when I was running shops. I told them I would be doing most of my own work but wanted to use them when I needed a shop to do the work. I asked to supply my own parts and guaranteed them the parts would always be AC Delco quality parts or equivalent. They agreed and the results have been top notch. I also agree with @Miami-Dade about the parts and fluids. Use AC Delco quality whenever possible. IMO.
 

swathdiver

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Hello.

My old account has been lost since we purchased our 2013 Tahoe new back in 2013. The vehicle has been a real maintenance free machine. Has 110k miles approximately. Z71 LT 4WD. Gone through one battery and set of tires.

Our local dealer has always provided the “recommended” actions during our oil changes. Recently I noticed our passenger motor mount was broken (leaking the fluid) and will have it fixed and figured I would tackle some of these items they “recommend” while it’s there. Also believe our brakes/rotors are due too.

So here is the list, please debate the pricing and if any are truly needed. None have been done to date, we purchased vehicle new.

• air intake $139
• throttle body $89 - well i have done this and they didn’t notice how shiny it was :)
• drive line $375
• transmission flush/clean $199
• cooling system flush/clean $149
• power steering $119

So what’s your thoughts? We have not had any issues with coolant, tranny, steering, or engine performance. Besides the rough idle thingy, I’m just wondering if the fluid components of the vehicle need to be addressed. Should Serp belt be replaced? I can do that myself. But the other Technical maintenance like brakes, etc...I will leave to experts to save time and headache. And I know they are upcharging because they said the mounts were 138$ and rockauto has the same at 98$.

Some of this should have been done twice already. The radiator is due, manual calls for 5 years or 150K miles. Keep the fluids clean and she'll run 300K+ miles. Definitely do the transmission and transfer case and both differentials. Your hubs are hitting their historical lifespan, change the brake fluid when you have brake work done too.

Love the Z71 Tahoes, got any pics?
 
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