Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)

Order 2 more????

lol fu

maybe i'll buy the more expensive arms...that'll show em

randeez said:

sooo any ideas?

if it were just the boot i'd just swap the boots, but the finish is off and the balljoint is different (hump on the top of one flat on the other).

appears gm discontinued them? and replacement part is a stamped steel - kind of concerning but f-it. most of the parts sites just list the replacement part number. kind of weary about ordering the part number i want and having them just send the stamped steel part

theres a used pair on ebay oem part numbers on them, pretty clean and cheap - i cant even find a part number for the upper balljoint, bushing are easy enough to swap if needed

Click to expand...

Test fit them on your spindle, if it fits, run it. I dont remember the exact years but the gmt900s that had factory aluminum arms ran a different upper ball joint than factory steel equipped. If you had steel upper and lower (I'm assuming so, I didn't read past your weight comparison post) arms and ordered the aluminum arms, but then ordered new spindles per model year you may have accidentally mixed and matched.

I'm running the IHC upper and lower arms on mine. The upper has a slightly larger thread shank than factory(steel arms), all I needed to do was run a 1/2" bit through the spindle bore and woller'her out a bit. No issues since.

How do you like the coilovers? With the IHCs I can run the stock strut on a 5" drop but I was still thinking about going with a double adjustable front to match my QA1 rears if the front straps don't hold enough on the launch.

i ordered everything for a 2016 silverado basically
kind of test fit them but the blue boot has a washer-like surface that compresses the boot up - would need to draw the balljoint stud down with allen key/wrench to know 100% that its right but didnt want to do that because waiting for match. the black boot just pushed up pretty easily and the taper is correct

and too late i already sent 4 arms back

ordered the next line up...says arms are forged aluminum as opposed to cast of the ones i had.

You are too patient

installed the steering rack, front diff (new brackets), and the engine... connected the ac compressor - i dont break the lines... ever lol, always works cold af.

the alternator bracket goes into the steering shaft boot.... sooo it turns out an dr44 alternator bolts directly between the bottom accessory bracket and other hole on the block. wondering how sketchy it would be to use a stretch belt for the alternator or i may be able to mount i there and get an idle pulley on it not giving up on it yet.

This is where it ends up solidly mounted, doesn't touch the boot

Is da wires gonna reach? Not that it’s hard to extend but... Ya know, no reason for extra werk... lol
cycling the wheel and suspension altnator still no touchy?

There isn't even a wiring harness on it at the moment , I gotta redo a few things anyway.

Don't have the lines connected to steering and it spits fluid everywhere where you cycle it, but yea gonna make sure it'll spin and not hit. it feels like the boot is quite a bit bigger than the joint under it so could probably just rip the boot off and keep it clean and greased

I don't think the casing and the rubber touching would be any issue anyway, you could probably get away with a smaller one if you had to