Auto ride build differences (and my dumb mistake)

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efair

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OK I'll start with my dumb mistake - I blindly purchased and installed non-autoride front struts on an autoride-equipped car - to the tune of $400. I'm wondering what the implications are of leaving it this way and/or the best path forward. It looks like the original strut has an actuator atop the damper (shock) that regulates the damping, so obviously I will lose that variable stiffness. But are there other differences they might affect safety or otherwise affect drivability? EG will ride height suffer due to different springs? Are there any other components that will suffer as a result?

The difference in stiffness is apparent but not alarming.

This truck is split 50/50 between soccer mom and light trailering duty.

I already know I'm an idiot for my blunder - no need to restate the obvious.
 

wjburken

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OK I'll start with my dumb mistake - I blindly purchased and installed non-autoride front struts on an autoride-equipped car - to the tune of $400. I'm wondering what the implications are of leaving it this way and/or the best path forward. It looks like the original strut has an actuator atop the damper (shock) that regulates the damping, so obviously I will lose that variable stiffness. But are there other differences they might affect safety or otherwise affect drivability? EG will ride height suffer due to different springs? Are there any other components that will suffer as a result?

The difference in stiffness is apparent but not alarming.

This truck is split 50/50 between soccer mom and light trailering duty.

I already know I'm an idiot for my blunder - no need to restate the obvious.
Other than maybe getting a Service Suspension error, no harm has been done. If you get the error, you can buy some resistors to fool the system.
 

iamdub

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What Wade said. Deleting AutoRide is very common when lifting or lowering and you just installed stock or stock-replacement non-AutoRide counterparts. You're in no danger. Get some 3.9 ohm, 25W or greater resistors and you'll turn off the warning lights on your dash, unless it has other problems. If the rears ever need replacing, you can get the non-Autoride ones there as well.

Resistors I've been running at all four corners, never a problem: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075DLSC5H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

Joseph Garcia

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How did you mount these resistors? I believe I'll be ordering these since I am seeing the warnings.


My resistors (from previous owner) are not even mounted on anything. They are wired/connected with good insulators, and they just 'float' in the air. I'm not necessarily supporting this method of no solid mounting, but it works.
 
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efair

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Are you kidding? I’ve done stuff much dumber than that. Usually at least once a week. Look up the RPO codes in your glove box so you’ll know all the particulars of your rig.

It's got the Z55 RPO, upon further investigation I've concluded this means:
1) variable damping on all four corners, and
2) height-adjustable shocks in the rear.

I would assume this RPO implies sensors to detect suspension travel on at least one corner, but I haven't confirmed that yet.
 

iamdub

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How did you mount these resistors? I believe I'll be ordering these since I am seeing the warnings.

Soldered the wires to the pins, double heat-shrinked, then wrapped the pins and wires with 3M Super 33+ to the harness loom. You can't seal off the finned aluminum body since that's for cooling.
 

iamdub

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It's got the Z55 RPO, upon further investigation I've concluded this means:
1) variable damping on all four corners, and
2) height-adjustable shocks in the rear.

I would assume this RPO implies sensors to detect suspension travel on at least one corner, but I haven't confirmed that yet.

Each corner has a suspension position sensor with link rod connecting it to the upper control arm like so:

19615-0302a60e1eab5d190e7184ed45ac29e9.jpg



It's two separate systems: Autoride is the electronically-controlled variable valving shocks and struts. Auto Level Control is the air bellows on the rear shocks controlled by a compressor behind the left rear wheel. Both systems use the position sensors. AutoRide uses them in conjunction with accelerometers to determine sudden pitch and roll (and maybe even yaw) changes of the body so it can firm up and/or soften the shocks at each corner to maintain stability. The ALC system uses them to tell when the rear is sagging from a load so it can activate the compressor to air up the bellows on the rear shocks to raise the rear and level the vehicle. This maintains stability when loaded as well as retains the steering control and feel. It also keeps the headlights properly aimed.
 

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