Well hell...me again!

Livebai8 · May 21, 2020

Ok guys/gals...i moved my tahoe out of the drive way into the street to get my my work car out of garage this morning...no issues at start and moved fine. Upon returning this afternoon I put my car up and went to run an errand in my Tahoe. The damn think has no crank and no sound but dash and all gauges work fine. I've researched it a bit and see it could my starter or my ignition.

If i do the starter jump from the relay to the battery and it starts...does that mean my starter is ok? If the starter is bad would it still start with that method?

I have had to jiggle my key alot to get the switch to turn and crank...so there's that too?

Let me know your thoughts please. TIA.

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Joseph Garcia · May 22, 2020

Your jumping the battery directly to the starter solenoid would suggest that your starter and solenoid are OK.

First, check all electrical positive connections between the battery and starter, as well as the ground connections from the engine block to the frame and back to the battery's negative terminal.

If all connections are clean and tight, then the problem is most likely in the ignition circuit or the ignition switch itself. Having to jiggle the key in the ignition switch would suggest that the ignition switch may be the source of your problem. My ignition switch 'start' position contacts failed in my 1997 Yukon, and I had a similar experience as you are having now.

Other more knowledgeable folks will chime in with their thoughts.

Livebai8 · May 22, 2020

Joseph Garcia said:
Your jumping the battery directly to the starter solenoid would suggest that your starter and solenoid are OK.

First, check all electrical positive connections between the battery and starter, as well as the ground connections from the engine block to the frame and back to the battery's negative terminal.

If all connections are clean and tight, then the problem is most likely in the ignition circuit or the ignition switch itself. Having to jiggle the key in the ignition switch would suggest that the ignition switch may be the source of your problem. My ignition switch 'start' position contacts failed in my 1997 Yukon, and I had a similar experience as you are having now.

Other more knowledgeable folks will chime in with their thoughts.

Thanks. I haven't tried that "trick" yet with the wire from relay to the battery...yet! I didn't know if the starter would crank at all if it's completely gone. I'm gonna start with the battery first...then start tracing.

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OR VietVet · May 22, 2020

Yes, basics first. Battery is the heart. How old is the battery? Cable connections clean and tight? Only takes a few volts to have dash lights but more needed to crank the engine. Check for corrosion under the cable insulation at each end but more likely near the battery. Check all connections at the starter. Does it start in neutral and not in park? The key wiggling may be a key tumbler problem and nothing to do with the ignition switch. How long has that been going on?

We recommend that you put all your rig(s) info in your signature so we all don’t have to guess at year, make, model, engine size, trans, rear axle locker…….etc. While you may have posted pertinent info in your first post, you may forget to do it again and the info is needed by us anyway. Makes it way easier on all members that attempt to help, to have that info right up front. It is also recommended that you take a pic of your RPO codes, on the inside cover of the glove box, and post that image in your signature. All this info will greatly help those that will try to help with a problem.

If there is any other info, like upgrades, mods or recent mechanical/maintenance work done, that would be helpful in any post as well. Too many times a question is asked by the poster and after about 10 responses we find out that the poster has done recent work to attempt to fix the problem or work that was done that SEEMS not related to the problem.

Livebai8 · May 22, 2020

PNW VietVet said:
Yes, basics first. Battery is the heart. How old is the battery? Cable connections clean and tight? Only takes a few volts to have dash lights but more needed to crank the engine. Check for corrosion under the cable insulation at each end but more likely near the battery. Check all connections at the starter. Does it start in neutral and not in park? The key wiggling may be a key tumbler problem and nothing to do with the ignition switch. How long has that been going on?

We recommend that you put all your rig(s) info in your signature so we all don’t have to guess at year, make, model, engine size, trans, rear axle locker…….etc. While you may have posted pertinent info in your first post, you may forget to do it again and the info is needed by us anyway. Makes it way easier on all members that attempt to help, to have that info right up front. It is also recommended that you take a pic of your RPO codes, on the inside cover of the glove box, and post that image in your signature. All this info will greatly help those that will try to help with a problem.

If there is any other info, like upgrades, mods or recent mechanical/maintenance work done, that would be helpful in any post as well. Too many times a question is asked by the poster and after about 10 responses we find out that the poster has done recent work to attempt to fix the problem or work that was done that SEEMS not related to the problem.

I've checked all...new battery studs, no corrosion
Battery is a 2017...02 Tahoe 5.3l flex...no mods but have done knock sensors, cleaned injectors, new fuel pump sender...about to replace idle air and throttle position sensor...it started yesterday morning when I moved out of driveway...but nothing once I got home later in afternoon. Tried to check battery voltage but meter is dead (of course)

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OR VietVet · May 22, 2020

Well then, you need some test equipment and follow the lead of what I posted and what others will and have posted and post the test results. By the way, did you try to jump start and see what happens?

Livebai8 · May 22, 2020

PNW VietVet said:
Well then, you need some test equipment and follow the lead of what I posted and what others will and have posted and post the test results. By the way, did you try to jump start and see what happens?

Well...went out this morning and the damn thing started right up...beginning to think it's my ignition switch. I need a new meter. I looked at my last oil change paperwork and my battery tested fine...i couldn't get my meter to read.

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PG01 · May 22, 2020

Livebai8 said:
Well...went out this morning and the damn thing started right up...beginning to think it's my ignition switch. I need a new meter. I looked at my last oil change paperwork and my battery tested fine...i couldn't get my meter to read.

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I think its your switch, next time pull/push on the gear shifter and or turn steering wheel while turning/jiggling key and see if that helps.

OR VietVet · May 22, 2020

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=96990&cc=1380372&jsn=2287

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=335675&cc=1380372&jsn=2288

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=514147&cc=1380372&jsn=2291

Could be either one of these ignition switches, depending on your RPO code options. I could have looked that all up for you had you already posted the recommended info from my previous post.

Livebai8 · May 24, 2020

PNW VietVet said:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=96990&cc=1380372&jsn=2287

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=335675&cc=1380372&jsn=2288

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=514147&cc=1380372&jsn=2291

Could be either one of these ignition switches, depending on your RPO code options. I could have looked that all up for you had you already posted the recommended info from my previous post.

I appreciate your help and advice. I've already researched these from Rockauto.

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Well hell...me again!

Livebai8

Full Access Member

Joseph Garcia

Livebai8

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OR VietVet

Multnomah Falls

Livebai8

Full Access Member

OR VietVet

Multnomah Falls

Livebai8

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PG01

OR VietVet

Multnomah Falls

Livebai8

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