When Did You Replace Your Ball Joints and Control Arms?

Sam Harris · Feb 13, 2020

jz57 said:
Comparing front end bolts removal is like telling a list of children story. To remove front sway bar bushing bolts could be the last exciting story.

Removing sever rusty front sway bar end link bolt is NOT bad, the effective tool is a cutting wheel or a hack saw in the worst scenario. For the front sway bar bushing bolt removal, it could be a nightmare.

The bolt on front sway bar bushing clamp and bolt on front strut bottom side are located very closely, they are all open to weather condition. But the experience of those bolts removal is totally different. Please see the following link:

https://www.silveradosierra.com/sus...hing-bolts-how-do-i-get-these-out-t40305.html

The reason having difficulty to remove the front sway bar bushing bolt is the structure of the bolt. If you pay the attention to the bold thread section, you will find that the thread cross section is a round-corner triangle, so-called self-taping thread, there is NO thread in the weld-on nut on the bracket before assembling. After self-taping bolt and weld-on nut are tighten, they become locking nut/bolt. Then, plus corrosion, the nut and bolt are more like wedded together.

9 of 10 times, that bolt will be broken when removing.

I tried once with my sway bar end links. Had already sprayed with penetrating oil, and that Bastard wasn’t moving. I just went straight to the angle grinder.

ls1frc · Feb 18, 2020

Got my moog swaybar bushings in today. The bolts were all seized, but kroil and torch once again freed them up no problem. I think people run into issues because they force them out with tons of torque and the bolt snaps. You have to soak, heat, then work the bolt in and out multiple times. Once it starts feeling tight again, you have to screw it back in, reheat, then start again.

I also checked my upper control arm bolts since the truck was aligned. They were all loose. Maybe 50 ft lbs max! This is why i do my own work.

The only two items I couldn't do myself were goofed up by the shop. They installed my struts backwards on the spring and then didnt torque down the control arms properly. Unreal.

chilleblanco36 · Apr 12, 2020

Just replaced my upper control arm bushings when I installed the lowering kit. Bottom didn’t look bad at all at 137k. Upper had a few cracks but didn’t seem too bad

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trailblazer · Apr 12, 2020

Here are some genuine UCA’s from a GM Assembly plant or warehouse. This seller buys all OEM surplus so it’s none of the aftermarket ACDelco stuff; it’s the actual parts that go on GM vehicles at the plants.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/192927265982

Geotrash · May 13, 2020

I have 2 XL Denali's - an '07 with 205K, and a '12 with 108K.

swathdiver said:
For those replying, if you don't mind, post the age of the vehicle and mileage at the time it was done along with the usual description. This way, folks coming along after us can get a feel for when this repair might be needed. Appreciate your input fellas.

I have 2 XL Denali's - an '07 with 205K, and a '12 with 108K. I did the front end on the '07 when I bought it at right around 200K, including both upper and lower control arms with ball joints, stabilizer bushings, tie rod ends, etc., but didn't touch the shocks as they're still in good shape. (I'm assuming they were replaced by the pervious owner but I don't know). It totally transformed the ride - feels like a brand new truck. So much so, that it makes the '12 feel worn by comparison as it hasn't had any front end work done on it yet (though nowhere near as worn at the '07 felt). I'll probably wait until next summer to tackle it though as it's still doing fine and I have some long trips with it coming up.

I appreciate you around here, swathdriver, and thanks for doing the research on this.

Dave

swathdiver · May 13, 2020

Geotrash said:
I have 2 XL Denali's - an '07 with 205K, and a '12 with 108K.

I have 2 XL Denali's - an '07 with 205K, and a '12 with 108K. I did the front end on the '07 when I bought it at right around 200K, including both upper and lower control arms with ball joints, stabilizer bushings, tie rod ends, etc., but didn't touch the shocks as they're still in good shape. (I'm assuming they were replaced by the pervious owner but I don't know). It totally transformed the ride - feels like a brand new truck. So much so, that it makes the '12 feel worn by comparison as it hasn't had any front end work done on it yet (though nowhere near as worn at the '07 felt). I'll probably wait until next summer to tackle it though as it's still doing fine and I have some long trips with it coming up.

I appreciate you around here, swathdriver, and thanks for doing the research on this.

Dave

Thanks Dave and same for you as well. Hey, I just noticed that you and @mikeyss live in the same town. Might come in handy when when you need a helping hand and someone familiar with these and by all accounts, Mike is a great guy and resource on here too!

Luie · May 24, 2020

My 2008 tahoe has over 170k miles on it so far and have not changed any front end part. Knock on wood. Not yet anyway...

rockdogz · May 24, 2020

I have a 2008 and I want to replace all front suspension parts but am wanting to put in a fabtech 6” lift first so I gotta figure out what I need that won’t be in the lift kit...

Big Mama · May 25, 2020

You can call Belltech. From what I understand they have good customer service.

When Did You Replace Your Ball Joints and Control Arms?

At what mileage did you replace the ball joints and or control arms on your truck?

Before 50K Miles

Between 50K and 75K Miles

Between 75K and 100K Miles

Between 100K and 125K Miles

Between 125K and 150K Miles

Between 150K and 175K Miles

Between 175K and 200K Miles

After 200K Miles

Sam Harris

ls1frc

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chilleblanco36

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trailblazer

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Geotrash

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